Can't pull rotor. Is this a problem?

[bwringer]

I'm finally rebuilding my spare GS850 engine. The rotor puller for this bike a basically a 14mm bolt. The bolt that holds the rotor on is a 12mm thread, so the puller simply threads into the larger hole on the rotor, then presses against the edges of the smaller hole in the end of the crankshaft.

The problem is that the larger bolt is bunging up the threads in the end of the crankshaft rather than staying on the outside of the threads. The rotor is still not loose despite heroic levels of torque, a bit of heat, and gentle rapping with a hammer. I don't want to go any further because the threads in the end of the crank are getting destroyed.

The starter clutch is fine -- I mainly wanted to change the left side crankshaft seal.

But why is there a seal there in the first place? This area runs in oil anyway, so what's the point of the crank seal on this side? If I leave the old seal in (which has very little wear and still seems fairly flexible), will this have any effect at all if it begins to leak?

I'm thinking I should just leave the rotor and old seal on there, reassemble the engine, and forget about it.

Any thoughts?

 

[scotty]

Are you sauing that you are attempting to remove the rotor with a tool that is not the exact one for the job..

Wrong size thread??????

 

[t3rmin]

Maybe you could try using a regular hardware store bolt instead of a hardened special puller? My experience was the bolt threads deformed, but not the crankshaft threads. Perhaps a softer bolt would help? M14 should be big enough for heroic levels of torque without breakage, at least it was for me.

You could also couple the bolt pulling method with other things like "gently" jamming 2-3 flathead screwdrivers at apposing points between the starter gear (the one on the crank) and the starter clutch. That gives it a bit of outward pressure and you can do it without warping anything if you don't jam 'em in too tight.

Also banging on the end of the puller bolt with a hammer can help loosen things (maybe you're already doing this?). And people will tell you to *never* do this, but I gently rapped on the rotor itself with a rubber mallet a bit, while putting aforementioned heroic torque on the puller.

But my best pulling success came not from putting hard steady muscle into turning the bolt, but sharp, hard strokes on the wrench. Last time I did it, the rotor popped right off after a few hard and quick pushes on the wrench. Of course it's equally important that you've got the motor secured from turning so all your cranking power goes directly into that puller bolt.

 

[bwringer]

The puller is the correct size and shape.

The rotor has a 14mmX1.5mm thread in it, and the thread in the crank has a 12mmX1.25mm thread in it.

Normally, the rotor is held onto the crank with a 12mm bolt, and the 14mm threads in the rotor are unused. When it's time to pull it off, the 12mm bolt comes out, the 14mm bolt engages the threads in the rotor, and the nose of the puller bolt presses against the end of the crank -- it can't go into the 12mm threads in the crank.

The trouble is that the puller is actually digging into the threads in the crank, messing up the crank threads and the threads on the bolt.

And yes, everything is greased per the instructions.

 

[RacingJake]

All that oil seal does is seal up against the backside of the started clutch ring gear. You have needle bearings on the crankshaft that the starter clutch assy turns on. That seal force's oil to those bearings once it's flows from the crankshaft bearing. Since your not blowing up those bearings I'd say the seal is fine. If you could remove your starter clutch you'll see those's bearing and thrust washer with grooves to direct oil to the bearings.

If it's not broke don't try to fix it by breaking it.

 

[Suzuki mad]

If you are using the correct Suzuki puller the instructions state that you loosen the retaining bolt on the rotor not remove it then using the suzuki tool and locking the rotor with another suzuki tool remove the rotor. Normaly it pop's off and the retaining bolt stops it from falling onto the floor.

I've found that there are two different sizes of these special tools from Suzuki. You are using the right one?

Suzuki Mad
1981 GS1000ET
1983 GS(X)1100ESD
2002 GSF1200K1

 

[bwringer]

If you are using the correct Suzuki puller the instructions state that you loosen the retaining bolt on the rotor not remove it then using the suzuki tool and locking the rotor with another suzuki tool remove the rotor. Normaly it pop's off and the retaining bolt stops it from falling onto the floor.

I've found that there are two different sizes of these special tools from Suzuki. You are using the right one?

Suzuki Mad
1981 GS1000ET
1983 GS(X)1100ESD
2002 GSF1200K1

Yes, I am using the correct tool as clearly stated above. You describe a process that uses external threads on the rotor. There are no external threads on a GS850 rotor.

 

[bwringer]

All that oil seal does is seal up against the backside of the started clutch ring gear. You have needle bearings on the crankshaft that the starter clutch assy turns on. That seal force's oil to those bearings once it's flows from the crankshaft bearing. Since your not blowing up those bearings I'd say the seal is fine. If you could remove your starter clutch you'll see those's bearing and thrust washer with grooves to direct oil to the bearings.

If it's not broke don't try to fix it by breaking it.

Thanks! I was mainly wondering what the function of the seal was, in case I needed to leave it in place. Since it's not damaged or hardened too much, the original seal should perform this function just fine. If it needed to form a totally leakproof seal (like at the other end of the crankshaft), then I'd be far more motivated to find a way to remove the rotor.

I'll try once more -- I have an idea that won't hurt anything if it doesn't work out -- and then I'll forget it.

 

[bwringer]

Woohoo! Got it! \\/

I found that the head of an 8mm socket head cap screw would slip through the 14mm threads in the rotor and nestle comfortably in the horrible remains of the 12mm threads in the crankshaft without jamming.

After the puller had something solid to bear against, the rotor popped right off. There are still plenty of threads in the crank -- only the last 5mm or so are bunged up -- so reassembly should not be a problem after I clean them up with a tap.

Now if it'll just warm up a bit so I can get the cases painted, I can start to put this bad boy back together.

 

[first timer]

what color you going to paid the engine? if black you should try some of this stuff

http://www.kgcoatings.com/

it's the gun kote stuff, it will help dissipate the heat off the engine better

 

[scotty]

Hap call got me past wringers problem a couple of years back.
Install the tool==make it tight then wack it with a small sledge--tighten a bit more then wack again. It worked.


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