• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

carb question

  • Thread starter Thread starter trinitysj
  • Start date Start date
T

trinitysj

Guest
So, in another post

This one: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=172770 it was said that my engine might be running lean... so i took my carbs apart today and found something interesting.

pics attached...

both inlets and fuel inlet
DSC_6291_small.jpg


the good one.. on carbs 3&4
DSC_6294_small.jpg


the bad one.. on carbs 1&2 ( which are the ones turning color the worst )
DSC_6293_small.jpg


isnt that hole in that plastic connector supposed to be bigger.. would that make the carbs run too rich and blue my pipes as well?

thanks
 
Too rich makes sooty plugs and black smoke from pipes. Too lean blues the pipes from too high of exhaust gas temperatures. Either one will one cause it to bog out on throttle application, but excessively lean causes a high idle. That plastic connector is for your vent tube isn't it? To melt it like that it's been really hot there.

on edit: I meant VENT tubes not overflow. I shouldn't be typing when my mind is too tired to think of the right nomenclature.
 
Last edited:
Time to go though those carbs and do a full rebuild. There are countless threads here regarding what to do. You should be able to find a spare for that damaged part from someone here - post in the Parts Wanted forum.

Please don't take short cuts, do the job properly...one time.
 
Hi,

The "inlet" in the middle is indeed the fuel connector. The other two are vent tubes.

intake_repair36-1.jpg


fuel_vacuum_vent_ports.jpg


See the article: Where Do These Hoses Go?

More information and pictures on my little website. Click the link in my sig. :)



Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
I just ordered a full rebuild kit for all 4 carbs.. when that gets here I will be installing all new parts.
 
trinitysj said:
I just ordered a full rebuild kit for all 4 carbs.. when that gets here I will be installing all new parts.
Click to expand...
Should have just ordered the o-rings from cycleorings.com. The rebuild kits for the most part are substandard junk and they never come with all the o-rings you need to do the job right.
 
Hi,

Did you order after market "carb rebuild kits" or did you order a set of O-rings from http://cycleorings.com? A proper disassembly, cleaning, and reassembly with Robert Barr's O-ring kit is usually all you need. Replace only the worn or broken parts with Suzuki OEM parts. Do not use the inferior aftermarket "carb rebuild kits". CLICK HERE to view the proper way to clean and rebuild your carbs.

Using the aftermarket "carb rebuild kits" will lead only to frustration, hair pulling, moaning, and gnashing of teeth. Use the links above and do it right the first time. You'll be glad you did.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
i ordered them from cycleorings.com... wanted to do it the right way
 
it was better than $25 per carb... i got the whole kit for $20
nice... cant wait to get them.. and get my bike running better...
 
I know Z1 Enterprises was stocking some replacement tees for Mikuni carbs. Not sure if it was just the fuel tee and fuel rail pipes or if the vent tees were available too. As I recall they were nice aluminum parts. Though, there were more o-rings to need later ;)

EDIT: OK, all I could find on their site was a fuel tee for 29mm smoothbore carbs. Never mind, going to bed now...

EDIT2: Oh, here it is, fuel tee/rail parts only, no vent tees. Sorry. So still NVM. And only for the 750-1000s (BS34?)

http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=4159

http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=4156
 
Last edited:
ok I have a question... other than the o-rings... if i did need to do the whole kit from scratch.. what is the main jet that I need? with this in mind.. I have 4-1 exhaust and air pods on all 4 carbs... someone said stage 3 jet kit.. not sure what that is in relation to a #115...

should I use a #115 main jet cause I think i have a #190 in it... not sure on that... will pull them out and let you know. And how to I richen the mixture up.. is it with the air needle on the top of the carb... lessen the airflow by screwing it in more than out?

am i getting this right...

I have downloaded the pdf from basscliff's site and am going to follow that.. but it says nothing on once your done... how to sync them or adjust the mixtures on it...

thanks again

R
 
Hi,

The reason you install bigger jets is to richen up the fuel/air mixture by putting more fuel in the mix. With a pipe and pods the engine will flow more air.

If you're going to tune the carbs manually, the general rule is to go up 3 to 6 sizes on the main jets, perhaps one size on the pilot jet, and shim the needles to richen up the midrange. You must read the spark plugs, using the "plug chop method" to make sure the fuel/air mixture is optimal. Then adjust as necessary to get the proper plug color at all throttle openings. But the whole reason you get the DJ3 kit is because it has specially tapered needles with special clips which make tuning the midrange much easier. The DJ3 kit comes with at least 2 different sizes of main jets for you to experiment with.

The "idle mixture screw" on the top of the carbs is for just that, to adjust the idle mixture. Turn it out to richen the idle mixture. Use the "highest idle" method or the Colortune to adjust these screws.

The stock Mikuni jets and the Dynojet jets do not use the same measurement criteria for their size references. The Mikuni jets use a "cc per minute" measurement while the Dynojet parts use the actual diameter measurement of the jet opening.

You'll find much more detail by searching the forum and you'll find links to carb tuning webpages on my website in the carb sections. You'll also find a chart with stock jetting numbers. Good luck.

Here's the link to Dynojet. Look around for a Stage 3 jet kit for your bike: http://www.dynojet.com/


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
thanks cliff,

I looked at my plugs.. and it seems that they are right on as far as burn goes.. none are fouled.. and none are burnt, ie. too hot and lean.. they look just right according to the reference materials.

so if it is running a little lean i can turn "out" the air mixture screw to richen it up a bit to make it optimal? is that right?

thanks again

R
 
Hi,

The idle mixture screw controls ONLY the idle mixture. Yes, turning it out will make the idle mixture richer (add more fuel). But it doesn't anything to any other circuit in the carb.

Read: Plug Chops-Highest RPM Methods and the links on that page.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Last edited:
ok

found it...

while doing my carbs the first time.. the #1 and #4 floats were bent way out... they were allowing the bowls to overfill and not shut off the fuel... while idling as well as while off they would overflow and create running problems...

fixing that part of it now.

am looking at the jets to see if they are right or not as well.
 
If the bowl vents were blocked wouldn't it cause a reduction in fuel flow and ultimately result in a lean mixture?
 
Yeah I thought that might be part of it..

so i found out that the main jets are #124 and the air jet on the back of the carb have a #180 on them...

does that sound right.

also talked to a friend of mine and he agreed that if the floats were not in the right position that they could allow the air jet to get clogged with fuel and make it run bad too... going to take care of the float issue tomorrow morning and then get the rest of it back together.. should work just fine after that.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top