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Carb Sync and Colortune on a 82 1100G

  • Thread starter Thread starter kdchart
  • Start date Start date
K

kdchart

Guest
I've been trying to get to know this bike (15,000 miles). I started a thread on a high frequency buzz with this bike, balancing the carbs was next on the list. It still buzzes, but perhaps a little less. I know very little about carbs, so any advice in deciphering this info would be great:

I followed bwringer's web site and got the colortune and carb balancer from Morgan. I ordered the stuff on Monday and received it on Friday. Very good service. I also ordered the 8mm extended socket/long screwdriver tool (Carbtool). So.....

Colortune -
#3 and #4 appeared to adjust fine.

On the #2 carb, I could not back the adjustment screw our far enough to get a yellow flame. I just about had the screw all the way out. Plus the screw was very easy to turn. Without adjustment, that cylinder was running pretty lean.

On #1 Carb, it was the opposite. Even fully closed, the flame stayed blue.

On each carb I tried looking at the flame when I bumped the throttle and tried to get in the mid-range as best I could.

Do the symptoms on #1 or # 2 indicate anything specific?:confused: I need to learn more about how the carbs work.

Carb Balancing -
Aside from taking a while to get the inserts in the ports, set-up went OK. Overall, the carbs were not that far off, but I thought I'd try to fine tune them. (BWRINGER says the vacuum #3 for his bike should be ~25cmHg, but I was only able to get ~20cmHg after everything. The manual says it's not important.) This is a very sensitive process. It seemed like I could not tighten the lock nut without changing the balance on a given carb by <4cmHg. Is this always this way?:confused:

After about an hour of trial and error, I got lucky and the carbs were close enough. One major problem was adjusting between #3 and #2. The adjustment screw is right below the throttle cable attachment. I had a hard time getting the socket on the nut and the screwdriver on the screw at the same time. I can see no way to balance the carbs without the special tool, but even with it, adjusting #2 is about impossible. Do they make a 12" 8mm wrench?

I ran the bike to work this morning and it runs a little better, but still not as good as I thought an 1100G could get. It still has the vibration in the tank.

Anyone have any thoughts on getting the bike fine tuned. I'm not ready to hot rod the thing, just want it to run as well as it can.

Thanks - Kevin
 
The instructions on my site were provided by a couple of guys named Dave and Earl, and I don't necessarily agree with a few details, such as the overly precise vacuum reading they give. The actual vacuum reading you will get will be different and is unimportant, as long as the carbs are balanced. I also wonder if mixing in the use of the Colourtune in this procedure is a bit confusing. Assuming the bike is running, I think it's best to synchronize the carbs and then worry about fine-tuning idle mixture after that.

I agree that the synchronizing screws are EXTREMELY, IMPOSSIBLY sensitive. After a while, you can develop a feel for how much they will go out of whack when you tighten the locknuts, and from there it's trial and error. I always have to try five or six times to get the locknut reasonably tight and maintain the same adjustment.

And yes, it's nearly impossible to get to the 2/3 adjuster because of the throttle bracket in the way. Some say you can simply remove one mounting screw and loosen the other to swing this out of the way. However, I've found that this causes the carb it's mounted to to start acting funny.

I think the locknut setup is a major, stupid design flaw -- this winter, I'm going to experiment with replacing these with the spring-loaded adjustment screws found on most newer bikes. I don't see why this wouldn't work, but no one seems to have tried it yet on a GS.

As far as the mixture adjustment, you might need to order up and install a set of carb o-rings, or at least the tiny o-rings used for the mixture screws. The o-rings that come in many rebuild kits are the wrong size, and yours may be old, missing, or incorrect. It's also worth keeping in mind that the idle mixture screws only affect mixture at a dead idle. They have a very minimal effect on anything above 1,000 rpm, but they do have a minor effect on off-idle transition (how smoothly the engine runs when just beginning to open the throttle).

I'll confess that my mixture screws are all set at 2.5 turns out. I simply gave up on trying to discern any difference in idle speed or quality from twiddling these adjustments. From the factory, they are usually set near 1.5 turns out, and opening them up a bit helps make things slightly richer so that cold starts and idling are easier.
 
Brian, let me know if you figure something out with spring loaded adjusters. that would be great! There is something about getting a good sync in 100 degree weather with fans blowing hot header air on you face while you fuvk with that last budge of the adjuster that throws off your readings. As for the 2/3 adjuster I use a 1/4 inch socket screwdriver with extension and feed it through the bracket. I already have the socket on the adjuster.
 
Nert carb sync screw conversion

Nert carb sync screw conversion

Hi guys
been there with the syn screws. I attmpted MANY modifications to the sync screws, springs, clips, tensioners, glue, solder, bandaids and rubber bands, etc.

I have solved the problem!!. I developed a procedure to modify the carb bank and it works great. I modified all (3) of my 82' GS1100GLZ bikes and it works great. cheap too!

I put together a PDF file with photos and instructions. I considered selling it as a complete kit. (all parts requiered and instructions). No one was interested. All the items are easily available locally.
in addition!!

I made very nice permanent vacuum pipe adapters out of 3/16 brake line, flaring tool, vacuum caps and and a metric die. They curve nicely out from under the head, (2) per side exposing the the rubber vacuum cap for access. Did all three bikes. (1) Length of brake line, new die and vacuum boots all came to less than $15.00.

email me for the PDF on the carb conversion. I would post it here for all the "GS" world to see, but don't know how.
 
nert said:
email me for the PDF on the carb conversion. I would post it here for all the "GS" world to see, but don't know how.
Click to expand...

Sounds interesting.

I couldn't find your email address and the "Email this user" tells me you don't accept email that way, so I just PM'd you my address.

Thanks,
- Tony
 
bwringer and demark
I have sent the PDF to your address.

bwringer, you have my permission to post it, should you find it worthy.
vic

demark, i didn't know i don't accept e-mail that way. I will try to change it.
vic
 
Here's Nert's sync screw modification.

It's sheer, simple genius, and something I never would have thought of in a million years.

You might want to right-click on the link and choose "Download Linked File..." or "Save Link to Disk..." or whatever. It's a 2.3MB PDF:
http://bwringer.com/gs/syncmod/NertSyncKit2.pdf

Enjoy!

I'll also add this to the "Tips and Tricks" section.
 
nert said:
demark, i didn't know i don't accept e-mail that way. I will try to change it.
Click to expand...

I just searched for it - my prefs were set up the same way (no email):

- User CP (in the darker blue bar at the top of the page)
- Edit Options
- Receive Email

BTW, that modification is great. I just got my carbs back on my bike (after no workie for a few months). When I get a little downtime, I'll rip them off and make the change.

- Tony
 
nert said:
Hi guys
been there with the syn screws. I attmpted MANY modifications to the sync screws, springs, clips, tensioners, glue, solder, bandaids and rubber bands, etc.

I have solved the problem!!. I developed a procedure to modify the carb bank and it works great. I modified all (3) of my 82' GS1100GLZ bikes and it works great. cheap too!

I put together a PDF file with photos and instructions. I considered selling it as a complete kit. (all parts requiered and instructions). No one was interested. All the items are easily available locally.
in addition!!

I made very nice permanent vacuum pipe adapters out of 3/16 brake line, flaring tool, vacuum caps and and a metric die. They curve nicely out from under the head, (2) per side exposing the the rubber vacuum cap for access. Did all three bikes. (1) Length of brake line, new die and vacuum boots all came to less than $15.00.

email me for the PDF on the carb conversion. I would post it here for all the "GS" world to see, but don't know how.
Click to expand...

Hey Nert,

Could I get a copy of that PDF File. I would appreciate that greatly.

Thanks,
*Steve*
 
hammerhead
Bwringer posted a link to the file on reply #7. You are reply #9
I will send it as well.
thanks
vic
 
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