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Carb Sync

  • Thread starter Thread starter Craig54
  • Start date Start date
C

Craig54

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81 gs 1000
Can anyone point me inthe right direction/
I want to sync my carbs but dont have the suzuki ball type guages.
I have a standard set of of 4 needle type vacum guages and noticed on the ball guages the outside carbs read higher than the inside. How does this relate to the needle type??

Craig54
 
Craig54 said:
81 gs 1000
....on the ball guages the outside carbs read higher than the inside.....
Craig54
Click to expand...

Not sure I understand this, but you are aiming to have each of you carbs reading the same (hence the term "synched").

The reading value is not important, but them all being the same is.
 
I understand what your saying but I don't have a figure for the ammount of difference they should be.

Is there not any advice of bascliff's welcome pack?
 
On the ball type gauges the book says half a ball difference between 1 & 4 and 2 & 3 (1 & 4 higher). On the dial type gauges this means you need a slightly higher reading on 1 & 4 (the actual reading is immaterial).

How much higher? I've only got the dial gauge type and I've never noticed any real difference between equal on all 4 and about half the thickness of the needle.
 
I did my 850 (mikuni) with the needle type gauges and had the two inside slightly lower than the two outside , the same as you would with the ball type.

The motor now hummms.
 
There was an answer to your question that I had seen at one time.
IIRC it was 1 cm of vacuum. (.39 inches) per 1/2 ball.
 
Last edited:
i have a set of vacuum gauges for mine, and they are 4 standard vac gauges like a car would use. when i hhok them up, the needles dont just stay in one place they sweep like form 10 to 20 something like that. but the sweep is very close on all 4 gauges. i dont know what a good start poiint is for them or where they should be or how much they should move.
there was no instruction with them.

also does anyone know, the brass tubes that come with them, there is a plug with a small hole in the end, my inside tubes are way long, can they be cut down so they wont hit the motor case when tryintt to put them in, and if so does that plug need to be pressed back inside the tube or can i leav it out??
 
gauges

gauges

Hi, I beleive you should have a restrictor in the tubes, this may insure a steadier read on the vaccum gauges. Not sure but thats my thought.
bmac
 
As I understand it, if you have replaced the stock exhaust with a 4X1, set them all to the same level. At least that is how I'm running my bike. The stock systems had an interconnecting link between two pipes, which was the reason for the difference levels stated in the manual.

Tony.
 
Mysuzyq said:
As I understand it, if you have replaced the stock exhaust with a 4X1, set them all to the same level. At least that is how I'm running my bike. The stock systems had an interconnecting link between two pipes, which was the reason for the difference levels stated in the manual.

Tony.
Click to expand...
You are correct. Except some stock exhaust did not have the cross-over tube. (77-79 GS750) Then you set them even just like a 4 into 1. Dar
 
these are the gauges that i have the tubes are brass and have plugs in the end, if i cut them down so they fit better, would i need the little plug put back in the enbd?????
 
Gage instructions.

Gage instructions.

boba said:
i have a set of vacuum gauges for mine, and they are 4 standard vac gauges like a car would use. when i hhok them up, the needles dont just stay in one place they sweep like form 10 to 20 something like that. but the sweep is very close on all 4 gauges. i dont know what a good start poiint is for them or where they should be or how much they should move.
there was no instruction with them.

also does anyone know, the brass tubes that come with them, there is a plug with a small hole in the end, my inside tubes are way long, can they be cut down so they wont hit the motor case when tryintt to put them in, and if so does that plug need to be pressed back inside the tube or can i leav it out??
Click to expand...
I think you could use the instructions, but this will sum it up. The long brass tubes go on the outside Cylinders, #1 and 4.
Little white plastic valves should have come in the kit, they go inline on each rubber hose. With the bike running, you should slowly close down each plastic valve until the gage needle stops swinging, and gives a steady reading.
Be careful when tightening each brass tube, the little rubber washers rip apart easy. Use a little oil on the threads.
From here you should follow the service manual for your bike.
 
Carb Sync

MMMMMMMMMMmmmmmmm
Thanks for replies.

hampshirehog said
How much higher? I've only got the dial gauge type and I've never noticed any real difference between equal on all 4 and about half the thickness of the needle.

sounds good to me
 
Not sure why Suzuki has the inner carbs of 2-3 slightly lower than
the outer 1 and 4 carbs. Most other manufacturers are even in
the synch procedure. As for the needle jumping around, you can
install an 8mm metric or SAE 1/4" inline valve that will restrict the
flow to dial-in the stability.
 
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