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carbtune question/s

timebombprod

Forum Sage
got the carbtune the other day, got it all assembled and the pieces all on my intake boots so i can start messing with it as soon as i turn the bike on. that being said i have some questions before i start messing around


with all 4 tubes showing the vacuum pressure while the bike is running, if 3 is lower than 4, and i want to sync them together bringing 3 higher, which way do i turn the screw? is it same for all gs models/bikes?


do i sync them a certain way? do i sync 1 and 2 together, then 3 and 4 together, and then sync them both with each other? pretty sure thats how ive been told how the carbs work, matter fact it is, just getting a reassurance i suppose.
or am i wrong?
 
As many sets of carbs that I have synched, I still can't remember which way to turn the screws. :oops:

Loosen the locknut (using the Motion Pro tool helps), turn the screw. Within 1/8 turn, you will know if it's the correct direction. Note that 1/8 turn is a BIG change on the gauge, so don't just start cranking on the screw.

The order listed in the Suzuki manual has you match #2 to #3, followed by #1, then #4. My experience has shown that the order for #1 or #4 doesn't matter much, as long as you are aware that #1 is slaved off #2, which means that if you change the 2/3 sync, #1 is going to move, too. It won't change relative to #2, but it will with theh others. Example: let's say that 1, 3 and 4 line up perfectly, but #2 is higher on the gauge. When you bring #2 down to match 3 and 4, #1 will now be low and must be brought up.

.
 
youll notice that as you adjust one another may change...go easy and keep a fan on the engine. You will have to adjust the idle too as it will also change
 
As i told you on the phone...and you can observe this on a rack off the bike..you have 3 adjusters. The left one syncs carbs 1 and 2 together and the right one brings 3 and 4 together. the middle one brings both side together. Once they are all close youll still need to tweak them some. This is how i was taught and its easy to do. YES others have "thier method" and im not saying they are wrong....object is as you watch the bars move in the carbtune youll quickly figure it out.
 
As i told you on the phone...and you can observe this on a rack off the bike..you have 3 adjusters. The left one syncs carbs 1 and 2 together and the right one brings 3 and 4 together. the middle one brings both side together. Once they are all close youll still need to tweak them some. This is how i was taught and its easy to do. YES others have "thier method" and im not saying they are wrong....object is as you watch the bars move in the carbtune youll quickly figure it out.

That's the way I've heard of doing it but have to admit, I've never balanced four of them.
 
im guessing i turn the gold screws that are on the carbs but to make sure what am i adjusting? is the nut and bolt to the left of the gold screw the fuel screws?


edit: i was wrong i wouldve been turning the idle adjustment screws and not the vacuum adjusters, gonna do more reading.
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the gold screw with the 8 mm jam nut..only 3 of them. Mixture screws are down in the hole and there are 4 of those...SOOO if your thinking "must be these 4​ then youre looking at the wrong ones
 
loosen the 8 mm nut and adjust with the screw. Go very slowly and dont push hard on the screws. Pushing too hard will move the throttle plate and youll think the bars are lined up good...let go with the screwdriver and they are off again. Lesson is go slow and be gentle.
 
Those are NOT the "idle adjustment screws". They are the "pilot screws" or "mixture screws" that are used to adjust the fuel mixture for the pilot circuit.

Your "idle adjustment screw" is actually the "idle SPEED adjuster", and it is on the bottom, between carbs 2&3.

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Try it again, but hold the Carbtune upright so the indicators can move freely.

Also, be SURE that the hoses don't touch the exhaust pipes. :oops:

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Try it again, but hold the Carbtune upright so the indicators can move freely.

Also, be SURE that the hoses don't touch the exhaust pipes. :oops:

.

i ended up just putting the bike all back together and sending it, thing rips but damn i need to work on my forks they go down like a stripper on a pole!

i still experience the weird rpm moving around, but the bike itself rides fine, maybe this will help diagnose whats going on, bike will ride like normal in gear and all that, say im cruising around 2000 rpm, ill pull the clutch in and either it will drop down OR it will rise up in the rpms, and sit there. also i cant really tune my throttle cable well because if it sits at 1100 rpm and i ride it, shut it off, leave it alone, and turn it back on, it may just be sitting at 2000 rpm. i am guessing vacuum leak.

gonna fine tune cable tomorrow so hopefully i dont keep fiddling with it everytime i turn the bike on.


gonna do a post tomorrow for it finally going all around the neighborhood just fine.
 
Now that you've got a running bike on the road the fun part starts aside from the actual riding, getting it "dialed in"

Being a cheap guy I've never used a Mercury column to balance carbs but my sense is there's some room for improvement there, at some point that's going to be a good idea to do. The upside is you'll know the difference in how the bike perfotms between balanced and unbalanced and have a hint where to look if you notice it not quite running right.

As to those forks, I remember you posting a video asking about the suspension travel. Did you ever get some air into those forks?
 
Now that you've got a running bike on the road the fun part starts aside from the actual riding, getting it "dialed in"

Being a cheap guy I've never used a Mercury column to balance carbs but my sense is there's some room for improvement there, at some point that's going to be a good idea to do. The upside is you'll know the difference in how the bike perfotms between balanced and unbalanced and have a hint where to look if you notice it not quite running right.

As to those forks, I remember you posting a video asking about the suspension travel. Did you ever get some air into those forks?


yes, but theres a new problem, they sit about 2 inches lower than they should, ive been told change the fork oil and see, there at about 18 psi, im gonna maybe mess with them today and see if i can do anything
 
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