• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Chain tension all out of whack

  • Thread starter Thread starter kb_air
  • Start date Start date
Good job on getting a new chain and sprockets. One thing to keep in mind about the conversion is the availability to get a new chain when needed if stuck on the side of the road. The 530s are more available than the 630.

Can't wait to see new pictures.
 
Agree with CowboyUp about the conversion; also, is your new 630 chain a rivet type? The 530 riveters are common, the 630s are not. Well, what's done is done and you'll get a chance in some years to revisit if you care to.

Grind rivets or just saw through the old chain. You won't be needing it any more. You could also take the opportunity to loosen up the swing arm (no need to break the chain then) and inspect and grease up the needle bearings.

kb_air said:
OK! so i called z1 and bikebandit both. Z1 had my chain and sprockets in stock, bikebandit had it on back-order so i went with Z1. The chain is a 630 96 link O ring style. 14 teeth front sprocket and a 41 tooth rear (i think, ill recheck and post if this is different) Tottal cost of $175.ish bucks. The cost difference in getting it converted was within 10 bucks.


The biggest problem im going to have is getting the old chain off, a chain breaker for a 630 is upward around $80-90, so im going to grind it off and hammer in the rivets i suppose.

you guys rock, i know im not the most mechanically savvy person in the world and yall helped out enormously. much <3!
Click to expand...
 
Don't forget to pull the front sprocket before cutting the old chain off.

I used a 4.5" grinder, went through the side plates no problem
 
Souske said:
Don't forget to pull the front sprocket before cutting the old chain off.
Click to expand...


Don't forget to pull the front sprocket before cutting the old chain off. (though I'd say it again)

If you remove the chain first you could have a bit of bother getting the front sprocket off!
 
hampshirehog said:
Don't forget to pull the front sprocket before cutting the old chain off. (though I'd say it again)

If you remove the chain first you could have a bit of bother getting the front sprocket off!
Click to expand...

Then again, being a GS, it will probably be loose anyway....:rolleyes:
 
well my chain is due in today so i took the liberty of looking in my clymer as to the process of replacing my chain. it has no dedicated section to removal and replacement of chain/sprockets. the best i could find was a quote that said "in order to remove chain you need to remove the swing arm, instructions in the chapter"
so i looked at the swing arm, and yea it has instruction on removal of the swing arm. nothing about sprockets, nothing about the chain specifically. will i know whats going on when i tear into the thing? is the sprocket removal a pretty self explanatory thing or will i be up the proverbial creek.

i have a hanes in rout and MIGHT be in today, who knows. its USPS so it could make it in a week from now, and i really need this bike up and running by Thursday. i dont know if this manual will have a dedicated section in it or not. it seems like my clymer just assumes i know what im doing.. and i obviously dont :-k .
 
Please slow down a bit and read what the others have posted.

You will only need to remove the swingarm if your new chain is an endless chain. (That is what was stock, so that's what's in the manual.)
If your new chain has a master link or a riveted link, you can grind your old chain to remove it.

If you don't loosen the front sprocket nut before removing the chain, please don't come back and complain,
it was mentioned just a couple of posts back (posts 23 & 24), by Souske and Hampshirehog.

.
 
Steve said:
Please slow down a bit and read what the others have posted.

You will only need to remove the swingarm if your new chain is an endless chain. (That is what was stock, so that's what's in the manual.)
If your new chain has a master link or a riveted link, you can grind your old chain to remove it.

If you don't loosen the front sprocket nut before removing the chain, please don't come back and complain,
it was mentioned just a couple of posts back (posts 23 & 24), by Souske and Hampshirehog.

.
Click to expand...

yes i saw that. i was just saying my manual doesn't have a section on doing this and said i needed to remove my swing arm. i didn't say that was what i was going to do. i was merely saying i needed instructions on removing the sprocket. i was told to leave the chain on before i did that but up until this post there was little detailed instruction on HOW to remove it with the chain on. all i was asking is, is it pretty self explanatory when i get into it, or will i need to wait for my other manual before i tear into it and get in over my head.
 
Its fairly logical, pull the sprocket cover off, mash down the tabs on sporcket nut, hold rear brake, and remove sprocket nut.

Then cut te old chain off, pull the rear wheel, replace sprocket on wheel (again with the mashed tabs)

Replace front sprocket, fish chain back through, install rear wheel, attach chain, tighten chain, lube chain.

Profit!
 
Souske said:
Its fairly logical, pull the sprocket cover off, mash down the tabs on sporcket nut, hold rear brake, and remove sprocket nut.

Then cut te old chain off, pull the rear wheel, replace sprocket on wheel (again with the mashed tabs)

Replace front sprocket, fish chain back through, install rear wheel, attach chain, tighten chain, lube chain.

Profit!
Click to expand...

cool, thanks much! is 10-40 oil thick enough to lube an o-ring chain? or should i go buy thicker.
 
I use chain wax in a spray can. Its mainly to keep the chain from rusting, and minimize wear on the touching surfaces. O-ring chains are permanently lubed internally
 
kb_air said:
cool, thanks much! is 10-40 oil thick enough to lube an o-ring chain? or should i go buy thicker.
Click to expand...
Please, please do not use motor oil on your chain. use either a chain wax ($15) or use the DuPont Teflon Multi-Use Dry Wax Lubricant from Lowes ($6). Both are effective.
 
Gettin it on!

Gettin it on!

ok, chain is in. is there anyway to seat a rivet style master link without a rivet press? whats the best way to do it?
 
It's almost impossible to do without a press. The pins will push out if you pound on them. When I did mine ,I laid the chain on a concrete floor and riveted it with a center punch. I then removed the swingarm to install the endless chain. As stated earlier you can check and grease your swingarm bearings at this time as well.
 
conclusion

conclusion

ok, so i ended up putting the sprockets on myself and just took it to my local bike shot and had them rivet my link in. looks good, works great. thanks alot everyone.
 
Glad to hear you got it sorted. Don't forget to clean, check tension, and re-lube every 600 miles or so. (Especially important for the first 600, as the parts break in)

Adding your location in user cp is also a good thing to do. Had you been close to me, I would have brought my riveter over for a beer or so.

Go put some miles on that thing!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top