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Chance to get the 1982 have ?s Garage find

I could be wrong, but I have yet to see actual dyno sheet before/after proof that Murray’s 2-carb set-up is better (or even as good) than the stock 4. You read something about them once in a while on a Facebook group. But if these were the cat’s pajamas of GS Carb setups, I wonder why they aren’t talked about much on this forum, where all the real GS knowledge is. I’m skeptical.
 
Amazing what advertisements can do. I'm not sure but would think the 4 - 32mm carbs, you've got now, "should" flow more than 2 - 34 mm carbs, but not sure, I'm not too good with numbers... My opinion, I'd just work on getting it going as it was designed, just for a good base line. If you put different carbs on now, you won't know if they made the bike faster, slower, or no change, from OEM. Also meant to say, I'm not familiar with GS650's but I think it's those GS650's that have a part on or around the air filter, a cage or something, that is no longer available, and nobody can find them. Look it up and if yours had this very hard to find part, you may want to be careful and take care of it.
 
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Pre-jetted? 'Plug and play'?

I was told that every bike is an individual, and carbs must be jetted for each one, preferably on a dynomometer.
 
Murray’s Suzuki GS650 E/GT/GL/Katana Carburetor Kit come Pre-Jetted, Synced and ready to Plug and Play for more Horsepower, Torque, Throttle Response and Drivability.


https://murrayscarbs.com/product/su...aTgTKKsdobBENhh0WchmWzbCOIc-90boaAmtpEALw_wcB


Thoughts


If you're that worried about working on the bike, owning a vintage bike may not be a good choice for you.

There will be a lot of fiddly things to do on a bike that old.

As for the carbs, you would be better off sending them to one of the members here who provide that service.
 
If you're that worried about working on the bike, owning a vintage bike may not be a good choice for you.

There will be a lot of fiddly things to do on a bike that old.

As for the carbs, you would be better off sending them to one of the members here who provide that service.

Who???????????????/
 

I don't think there's any doubt that Murray's carb setups WORK but as for the claims of more horsepower, etc, IMO that's just marketing. Sure, they'll allow more HP to be developed than a ratty old set of four that need replaced because they're totally knackered.
Here's a clue - I've had single carbs on my GS850s for thirty years.
Why?
Because the mileage I'd done on them had totally worn out the originals and I was looking at a bill of around a thousand quid just for parts, that's why.
I fitted big single SU carbs because I knew them inside out and I've never had cause to regret that decision. However, for many years they were just there and working but weren't optimised. I only started down the road of seriously getting the best out of the setup a few years ago. I'm pleased I'm getting damn near the full mid-range torque kick up the ass the four carbs gave, but it took a fair bit of fettling to get there. I am fairly certain I shall never see the same top-end speed out of them as the four-set, but that doesn't bother me. As long as I can sit on the motorway at 100mph and maybe have a little bit in reserve, I'm happy.
So, I do know a bit about it.
If I were in the same position today, I'd look seriously at Murray's carbs, as I've been quite impressed with the VM34s that are fitted to my XS650 (previous owner to blame for that) and they work well, also providing good economy. However, I'd not be expecting the same top speed from them - that would be a lie on the part of the seller. Maximum breathing at the top end really does need a venturi per bore, it's that simple.
I might get the same mid-range torque from them, though and that's important for quick overtakes.
 
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You would be better off rebuilding the carbs yourself. You have to start learning to wrench, since bringing back a 43-year-old bike from barn storage is a fair bit of work. It will cost you a bucket of Berrymans Carb Dip + a set of O-rings...and whatever tools you lack, which should be minimal. Key thing is some Vessel screwdrivers, including a couple of Impacta's. They are invaluable, and will last you for years to come.

Did you unlock "signature viewing" yet? Can you see the rebuild tutorial in my signature? And the Newbie Mistake thread?

This, this and this. Don't skip any steps. Before, during or after the carb rebuild adjust the valves then sync the carbs. Then you can start to spend money on un-necessary carb and engine mods.

Who???????????????/

Id send them to Chuck Hahn
 
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I soaked my original carbs that were sitting for 30 years in carb soak, took everything apart using the 2 instruction guides from this site, reused all parts, replaced the orings and the rubber plugs.
re-installed and ran the bike-no leaks and excellent throttle response, smooth idle and working choke.Never did this before and was fairly simple to do, you can do it.
 
Forgot to add that I did the needle washer switch- switch places with the thick white plastic washer and the thin metal one- carb rebuild guides mention filing down the thickness of the plastic, but for me at least switching them worked great.
 
Forgot to add that I did the needle washer switch- switch places with the thick white plastic washer and the thin metal one- carb rebuild guides mention filing down the thickness of the plastic, but for me at least switching them worked great.

Thanks for posting about your positive experience with rebuilding your own carbs.
 
Looks like this bike will shine up nicely. good luck with the carbs and all the other little things to do. Be sure to go through every single electrical connection and clean or replace. Especially the ones found inside the headlight bucket.
 
Looks like this bike will shine up nicely. good luck with the carbs and all the other little things to do. Be sure to go through every single electrical connection and clean or replace. Especially the ones found inside the headlight bucket.

That's a great reminder. The headlight connections are often overlooked, especially speaking from my own experiences.
 
Yes I did get it today...put battery in....and it turns over all lights work

Gas tank inside is clean no rust AT ALL

Going to shop this wk...and engine need polished
 
The clutch is really hard to pull...its not the cable..i unhooked it and the cable moves freely. But the bike has been sitting since 1985

I hope it frees up after oil change and engine gets goilg
 
My opinion A hard to pull clutch has about got to be cable or springs, but hoping I'm wrong and yours frees right up.
 
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