Changing the Clutch Springs on my 1982 GS850

[rustybronco]

Clutch hub nut.... 36-50.5 ft lbs.

I've heard people say the shiny side of the friction tabs go's in first. the shop manual doesn't indicate any such designation and I doubt it matters.

 

[legaleli]

They're here!

They're here!

Parcel just arrived:

Now on to installation of my new springs (after I torque the main nut in the basket).

Pictures and report tomorrow!

 

[WesV]

If you still have slippage problems, you can install some 10% stiffer EBC springs. Many people stagger them 3 stock and 3 EBC springs but I put in all 6 EBC in my '81 850 and I absolutely love them.

Here is a link with the part numbers and such http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=116448&highlight=ebc+springs

 

[Steve]

If you still have slippage problems, you can install some 10% stiffer EBC springs. Many people stagger them 3 stock and 3 EBC springs but I put in all 6 EBC in my '81 850 and I absolutely love them.

Here is a link with the part numbers and such http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=116448&highlight=ebc+springs

Just so you are aware, even though the increase is "only" 10%, it makes a big difference in clutch lever feel. If you have a lot of stop-and-go driving in your commute or row your way through the gearbox regularly on your weekend rides in the twisties, your left hand is going to get REAL tired.

Unless you have built up your engine beyond the usual pods and header, the stock clutch components will work just fine. The biggest clutch killer has been TIME. Sitting in a compressed state for almost 30 years will take some of the length and tension out of the springs. Simply installing new springs will remedy that quite nicely.

.

 

[legaleli]

Just so you are aware, even though the increase is "only" 10%, it makes a big difference in clutch lever feel. If you have a lot of stop-and-go driving in your commute or row your way through the gearbox regularly on your weekend rides in the twisties, your left hand is going to get REAL tired.

Unless you have built up your engine beyond the usual pods and header, the stock clutch components will work just fine. The biggest clutch killer has been TIME. Sitting in a compressed state for almost 30 years will take some of the length and tension out of the springs. Simply installing new springs will remedy that quite nicely.

.

...which is a very good thing because I am running out of time before our riding season begins - which lasts about 6 weeks. I think that the clutch, and the rear brake, will be the last of my troubles THIS year (fingers crossed).

When our season ends I am really going get to the task of rebuilding my bike - this season is about the joy of the ride. Next year my girl will be looking, and behaving, a lot better!

 

[legaleli]

Holy cow!!!!

Holy cow!!!!

OK... why didn't someone tell me WHY my GS850G's clutch slipped at 6000rpm?! The power comes on at 6K like something else... it was truly surprising when I barred the throttle.

The bike came back together like a top and I have some good pics I will post regarding the assembly. No leaks (yet), and the clutch does not slip at all. There's so much power from 6 to 10K that I'm surprised it's a 30 year old bike.

The clutch pull is a little harder, and it shifts harder, and it's a little harder to find neutral - though that may correct itself with time.

Thanks again for everyone's help.

 

[rustybronco]

Glad to see you ran it up there! cool ain't it...

woe to those who never get the chance to see what an '850 is capable of doing.

 

[mike_of_bbg]

Just so you are aware, even though the increase is "only" 10%, it makes a big difference in clutch lever feel. If you have a lot of stop-and-go driving in your commute or row your way through the gearbox regularly on your weekend rides in the twisties, your left hand is going to get REAL tired.

Unless you have built up your engine beyond the usual pods and header, the stock clutch components will work just fine. The biggest clutch killer has been TIME. Sitting in a compressed state for almost 30 years will take some of the length and tension out of the springs. Simply installing new springs will remedy that quite nicely.

.

+1. I bought EBC springs for my clutch and wished I had not. None of my biking friends could stand the amount of force required to pull the clutch lever. OEM springs are still available and cheap.

BTW, that's +10% stiffer, but I believe it's also considerable pre-load as the springs are longer than stock as well. The extra effort required at the lever is more like +200%.

Good job getting her back together there, Mr. Legaleli. Told ya it wasn't bad

 

[Guest]

Shoot, I run with Barnett HD springs. All six of them. The staggered thing didn't work.

 

[legaleli]

Bring on the riding weather!

Bring on the riding weather!

All the pics are now up at http://www.bakerlawoffice.ca/clutch/. Unfortunately the pics of me cleaning the gasket area, and putting the gasket and clutch cover back on didn't make it.

The most interesting part of the reassembly was:

Using a punch to get access to the lock washer to flatten it:

Using a combination of the rear wheel on the ground and my back brake and the following position to "lock" the basket so I could torque it:

Using a wrecking bar to lock the washer to the nut:

Starting all springs with my hand to ensure no cross-threading:

Rustybronco... it's unreal! I definitely have the "GS bug".

 

[jhillier449]

Let me know if you want a fellow GS riding partner some time.

John

1980 GS1000G
1982 GS650G

 

[Guest]

Glad to see you ran it up there! cool ain't it...

woe to those who never get the chance to see what an '850 is capable of doing.

Agreed!
Just when ya think it aint got no more its like someone hit a power switch and it keeps on climbing. Kinda reminds me of my ole CR.

Great thread legaleli and thanks for posting the pics.
Awesome!

 

[legaleli]

And.... we're still slipping

And.... we're still slipping

Gosh darn it... still slipping. Not as bad as before, but definitely still some slip in the clutch - and it wasn't there when I first installed the new springs - it came back after an hour of hard driving.

I think I need new clutch plates - where is a good place to buy for my 1982 GS850G? I am in Canada.

AND... there is also a noticeable "chatter" - like bones clanking together, from the clutch side when the bike is warmed up... it can only be heard at idle, and it is not continuous... there is chatter that appears to be happening with the rotation of the basket, but not on every rotation... it is not continuous... like a "clack.... clackity clack... ... ... .. clack clack... clakity clack ... ... ... .. ..." Clutch in or out at idle in neutral - it matters not... same sound.

I have no idea if I'm making sense here.

 

[Guest]

If the steels have a glaze on them the fibers won't grab. I'd hit them with steel wool or some 400 grit sandpaper.
Did you measure the fibers?

 

[legaleli]

If the steels have a glaze on them the fibers won't grab. I'd hit them with steel wool or some 400 grit sandpaper.
Did you measure the fibers?

The fibers measured within the tolerances quoted in the manual - but I didn't use a steel wool - that's something I will have to try next. I wonder if I can reuse the gasket... probably not. I'm tempted to get new plates just to have new ones - I can recondition the old ones and hold them as a back-up - not that I'll ever need them but someone might!

I am also wondering about the "chatter" - I believe it was there all along. I did re-torque the main basket nut. JHillier came over to listen to the noise and thought that it sounded pretty harmless but also admitted that he wasn't sure.

By the way - JHillier's 1980 GS1000 is pretty sweet. It has a different kind of power than my 850 but the bikes are pretty darn similar in their overall feel.

 

[Guest]

What oil are you running? If you have used oil not compatible with wet clutches in the past, the drive plates may have absorbed friction modifiers, causing them to slip, even though they measure within spec. If you take it apart again, scuff up the steels with the coarsest sandpaper you have available....I used horizontal strokes running straight between the inner & outer diameters of the plate to better engage the drive plates, but that probably doesn't matter much. Also, re-adjust the cable exactly as per the manual, after installing the clutch pack. The gasket can probably be reused.

 

[BadBillyB]

Gosh darn it... still slipping. Not as bad as before, but definitely still some slip in the clutch - and it wasn't there when I first installed the new springs - it came back after an hour of hard driving.

I think I need new clutch plates - where is a good place to buy for my 1982 GS850G? I am in Canada.

AND... there is also a noticeable "chatter" - like bones clanking together, from the clutch side when the bike is warmed up... it can only be heard at idle, and it is not continuous... there is chatter that appears to be happening with the rotation of the basket, but not on every rotation... it is not continuous... like a "clack.... clackity clack... ... ... .. clack clack... clakity clack ... ... ... .. ..." Clutch in or out at idle in neutral - it matters not... same sound.

I have no idea if I'm making sense here.

Typically when the clutch basket backing plate and cush springs become loose (this is on back of basket), you will get this kind of noise. Pulling the clutch in usually doesn't stop the noise but rather changes it slightly. If the noise does not respond at all to clutch input, you may have camshaft end float syndrome....Re-check your clutch cable end play at the bar end. As the plates wear or "bed in" the cable gets tighter. If the cable is too tight, the clutch will slip.....I only recommend stock factory Suzuki plates, and you can buy them individually, enabling you to re-use the ones that dont have any wear. The picture you posted of the lock washer and wrecking bar made me cringe. You should use a pair of channel-locks to flatten the washer as the post in the center hub is not strong enough to be side loaded like that. I always flatten it in 2 places, opposite each other, on a fresh spot on the washer....Billy

 

[blowerbike]

even if your plates measure within spec...
the problem is the fibers become hard/baked and have no grip.
replace with OEM fibers and ruff up your steels.
simple eh?

 

[gs road racer]

Next time use channel locks on the lock washer that bar slips you've broken the inner hub.......

 

[legaleli]

Typically when the clutch basket backing plate and cush springs become loose (this is on back of basket), you will get this kind of noise. Pulling the clutch in usually doesn't stop the noise but rather changes it slightly. If the noise does not respond at all to clutch input, you may have camshaft end float syndrome....Re-check your clutch cable end play at the bar end. As the plates wear or "bed in" the cable gets tighter. If the cable is too tight, the clutch will slip.....I only recommend stock factory Suzuki plates, and you can buy them individually, enabling you to re-use the ones that dont have any wear. The picture you posted of the lock washer and wrecking bar made me cringe. You should use a pair of channel-locks to flatten the washer as the post in the center hub is not strong enough to be side loaded like that. I always flatten it in 2 places, opposite each other, on a fresh spot on the washer....Billy

BadBillyB and GS Road Racer:

Excellent advice and exactly what I will do when I get my new plates.