Cheap, but good, derusting sauce

[Nessism]

This seems like good stuff. More mild than many other derusting methods, and cheap.

1 liter of water
100 grams of citric acid (available on Amazon)
One of the following: 40 grams sodium carbonate (washing soda), or 63 grams sodium bicarbonate (baking soda), or 30 grams sodium hydroxide (lye)

Scale volume of solution as needed.

This stuff derusts better than Evaporust, while being safe and mild with the base material. It lasts much longer than Evaporust also.

Never use harsh chemicals like hydrochloric/muriatic acid to derust. Yes, that stuff is fast, but it's crazy harsh and should be avoided.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fVYZmeReKKY

 

[chuck hahn]

Heres my 2 cents for what its worth.
First, if theres rust the galvanization has already been compromised. So mildness or harshness really is irrelevant.
Second, once its compromised its gonna rust again.
Third, acids are quick and easily neutralized with baking soda nullifying any hazmat concern.
Fourth, with acids i can derust, dry and have a liner in in a matter of an hour or two instead of extended waits for another sauce to finish.
Fifth , no measuring 5 ingredients. Dump in acid and stuff a rolled up rag in the filler hole and shake tank every 5 minutes or so. Neutralize ad drain into a bucket. Inspect and repeat if needed.

Use what you want is the common advice. For me its acid, get it done and move on.

 

[Nessism]

Heres my 2 cents for what its worth.
First, if theres rust the galvanization has already been compromised. So mildness or harshness really is irrelevant.
Second, once its compromised its gonna rust again.
Third, acids are quick and easily neutralized with baking soda nullifying any hazmat concern.
Fourth, with acids i can derust, dry and have a liner in in a matter of an hour or two instead of extended waits for another sauce to finish.
Fifth , no measuring 5 ingredients. Dump in acid and stuff a rolled up rag in the filler hole and shake tank every 5 minutes or so. Neutralize ad drain into a bucket. Inspect and repeat if needed.

Use what you want is the common advice. For me its acid, get it done and move on.

The main active ingredient of this sauce is citric acid. There are only two ingredients, both available on Amazon for cheap.

The main problem with acid is that it will eat the rust, and also eat the metal. Much more so when using something strong like HCl/muriatic acid.
This formula is good on rust removal, and it will also protect the base metal to the best possible extent.

That's the key takeaway. Never use strong acid, unless you are willing to accept pitting and erosion of the base metal. The formula listed here is mild, cheap, and effective.

 

[chuck hahn]

Citric acid is for oranges and lemons. Washing powder is for clothes. Lye is for disposing of bodies. Baking soda is for mommas biscuits. Muriatic acid is for work.

 

[Nessism]

Citric acid is for oranges and lemons. Washing powder is for clothes. Lye is for disposing of bodies. Baking soda is for mommas biscuits. Muriatic acid is for work.

I've been to quite a few large industrial painting shops, many doing powder coat, and you will NEVER find any of them using muriatic acid. Most use phosphoric acid, which is much milder. Paint supply manufacturers sell prep solutions, which are typically phosphoric acid. And so it goes...with the main takeaway, nobody use muriatic acid...except for chuck.

 

[oldGSfan]

I watched some comparison videos using Deox-C vs Evaporust after I saw it work on an ATC90 frame.. It's citric acid - based and performs very well. But it's very expensive and not common in the USA. Having this recipe interests me. Washing soda is cheap (dollar store). I hope I don't have to do another tank job again soon. I've used electrolysis (for a very heavy gauge steel and fairly rusty Norton tank), phosphoric, and vinegar, just depending on the severity of the rust. Main selling point to me is not damaging the paint - even the vapors of the stronger stuff can cause havoc. I leave vinegar in there for days, and it does pretty well (and no damage) but boy does it flash rust fast.

 

[chuck hahn]

DAMN RIGHT I DO!!! Its fast and its beaten any other "miracle sauce" i have ever heard about and tried in over 20 years. So it is that i will stick to what i like and get it done and lined in just a few hours versus whatever sit and wait times required with other stuff.

 

[Jitendra]

This seems like good stuff. More mild than many other derusting methods, and cheap.

1 liter of water
100 grams of citric acid (available on Amazon)
One of the following: 40 grams sodium carbonate (washing soda), or 63 grams sodium bicarbonate (baking soda), or 30 grams sodium hydroxide (lye)

Scale volume of solution as needed.

This stuff derusts better than Evaporust, while being safe and mild with the base material. It lasts much longer than Evaporust also.

Never use harsh chemicals like hydrochloric/muriatic acid to derust. Yes, that stuff is fast, but it's crazy harsh and should be avoided.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fVYZmeReKKY

can it be used to derust gas tank ?

 

[Nessism]

can it be used to derust gas tank ?

Of course. Just be sure to remove the petcock, fuel sending unit, if so equipped, and gas cap. Fabricate or buy plugs. Allow the tank to vent when cleaning, or pressure build up can damage the tank. Use a mirror or bore scope to validate all rust in the tank is gone before quitting. Spend the time, and profit!

 

[oldGSfan]

Of course. Just be sure to remove the petcock, fuel sending unit, if so equipped, and gas cap. Fabricate or buy plugs. Allow the tank to vent when cleaning, or pressure build up can damage the tank. Use a mirror or bore scope to validate all rust in the tank is gone before quitting. Spend the time, and profit!

I plan to try this out on my new/old Laverda. I have tried a sample of the Deox-C expensive stuff (which is citric acid-based), from a friend. It's pretty amazing, outperforming acids like Kleen Strip in every way. I got a packet of silicone rubber multi-colored plugs off Amazon some time ago and they come in very handy, one of those 'why didn't I get these before' items.

 

[Sandy]

I plan to try this out on my new/old Laverda. I have tried a sample of the Deox-C expensive stuff (which is citric acid-based), from a friend. It's pretty amazing, outperforming acids like Kleen Strip in every way. I got a packet of silicone rubber multi-colored plugs off Amazon some time ago and they come in very handy, one of those 'why didn't I get these before' items.

And grub screws in the petcock mounting holes to save having to use a tap to clean them out.

 

[oldGSfan]

And grub screws in the petcock mounting holes to save having to use a tap to clean them out.

Yes, for a Suzuki. The Laverda I'm doing has only a threaded spigot. The fuel tap has a reverse threaded nut so it draws up to the nut on the tank nice and snug. So simple.

 

[oldGSfan]

I've been using this, and wow, it's really good stuff. It doesn't degrade plating (as long as you don't soak parts for hours), gets the rust off as well as anything I've used, and is mild - no real vapors and you can dunk your bare hand in as long as you rinse off. And it lasts far longer. I mix the crystals ($20 for 5 lbs) with dollar-store Oxy washing powder and keep a fresh bucket of water mixed with that nearby. I'm tearing through rust. I also got a bunch of pH strips to make sure the mix is right. Yesterday I put it in a spray bottle and did the fins on my bike after degreasing, then sprayed oxy/water, then rinsed. Came out very nicely, just need to polish the covers. There are some small black pits that nothing seems to take off, I may do the engine paint/thinner dab trick on that, worked well on my Norton's very porous cylinder head, can't tell the diff from bare aluminum.

 

[Nessism]

I've been using this, and wow, it's really good stuff. It doesn't degrade plating (as long as you don't soak parts for hours), gets the rust off as well as anything I've used, and is mild - no real vapors and you can dunk your bare hand in as long as you rinse off. And it lasts far longer. I mix the crystals ($20 for 5 lbs) with dollar-store Oxy washing powder and keep a fresh bucket of water mixed with that nearby. I'm tearing through rust. I also got a bunch of pH strips to make sure the mix is right. Yesterday I put it in a spray bottle and did the fins on my bike after degreasing, then sprayed oxy/water, then rinsed. Came out very nicely, just need to polish the covers. There are some small black pits that nothing seems to take off, I may do the engine paint/thinner dab trick on that, worked well on my Norton's very porous cylinder head, can't tell the diff from bare aluminum.

Excellent! Glad the formula is working well for you, Tom. It's so simple, and cheap. Wish I knew about this back when I was doing more restoration work.

BTW, that Laverda of yours should get a thread in the "other bikes" forum. I'll follow you anyway! Super cool!

 

[oldGSfan]

Excellent! Glad the formula is working well for you, Tom. It's so simple, and cheap. Wish I knew about this back when I was doing more restoration work.

BTW, that Laverda of yours should get a thread in the "other bikes" forum. I'll follow you anyway! Super cool!

I'll do that soon. Teaser - there will be Suzuki content.