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Check your boots.

Steve

Steve

GS Whisperer
After wading through the BS the previous owner was slinging around, it WILL be necessary.

I have been working on the "freebie 850' in my sig. The carbs are dipped and mostly put back together, just waiting for the new bowl gaskets. While they were off, I took the opportunity to see if the intake o-rings needed to be changed. I had already ordered a new set from cycleorings.com, along with the stainless Allen-head bolts. I was pleasantly surprised to see that there were already stainless bolts in the boots, so I had hopes for the condition of the o-rings, too. Although I was contantly assured that it would be a good runner after I got the oil pan put back on, I don't know how that could possibly happen.

I pulled the intake boots and this is what I saw:
IMG_2990.jpg


OK, let's get a little closer. Here is a close-up of #1 (on the left) and #2 (on the right).
IMG_2991.jpg


Here is #3 (on the left) and #4 (on the right).
IMG_2992.jpg


I changed the lighting a bit and got even closer to #2.
IMG_2993.jpg


How in the #$@%@^#$ could it have been a "runner" with intake leaks like THAT??? Keep in mind that there was NOTHING stuck to the head. The edges of the intake ports only took mild polishing with a Scotch-Brite pad to make them ready for use.

Moral of the story: Whenever you get a 'new' bike, especially if you have not heard it run, CHECK EVERYTHING.

The cam chain tensioner was also stuck. Well, at least the knob would not turn. Found out that it was locked in place IN THE RETRACTED POSITION.
Yeah, I have already checked the cam timing and it's OK.

Seven of the eight valves were too tight for my .0015" feeler (yeah, I still use inch feelers).

Don't let the purchase price dictate how much you are willing to spend on the bike. Many times, I have seen on the board where someone says "I don't want to do that, it will cost more than I paid for the bike" or something like that. Following that philosophy, I shouldn't put anything into this bike, as it was given to me (yeah, the title came with it). I figure if you spend less to get the bike, you simply have more money available to put into parts. And yes, I have made some purchases in the last week to get this bike going. $396.22 so far, and I have yet to get a battery and some tires, so it should be about $650 by the time I am done. Add in the $100 in gas and food for three (TheCafeKid and my #2 son went with me) to get it, my "freebie" will end up costing me about $750. <grin>

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Yikes....If he was running it around like that as he says, and they looked like that, Id be looking at what ya can see of valve edges thru spark plug holes there my friend... :(
 
Couldn't turn the valves to check all of the edges, but what I saw actually looked rather good.
Spark plugs weren't too bad, but the mixture screws were WAAYYY out, probably to compensate. :-\\\

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Nice boots and everything, but we require pictures of the rest of the bike too!
 
I only have a few from when we picked up the bike, but, since you asked, ...

IMG_0272.jpg


IMG_0275.jpg


IMG_0276.jpg


This was from a GSR member that was a bit frustrated by a stripped oil drain plug. Removed the exhaust system to get the oil pan off, got even more frustrated when it took three people to remove the stripped plug. One to hold the pan, one to turn the plug with a wrench and a third to push on it from behind. He was ready to take it to the dump, I volunteered to take it for him, with a possible detour past my house for a few years. He asked if I was serious about wanting the bike, then asked if I wanted the title. I merely said "sure, if it's available".

I have not yet gotten the oil pan back on, that's next on the list. Then, while waiting for my several parts orders to arrive (hopefully in the next few days :pray: ) I will be looking at that fuse box to see just how it was re-wired.

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Congrats, Steve! Looks great for the price! Pretty soon you won't have to ride that big old golden wang everywhere you go.
 
I don't know about that. This is the one that #1 son is trying to lay a claim on so he has something to ride this winter while he is "stuck" in Flori-duh. :eek:

He is coming home for a few days later this week, so I am trying to get what I can done on the bike.
He might be able to take it with him when he leaves on Sunday, otherwise, I will be forced to deliver it.
action-smiley-083.gif


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A few hundred more for some fresh paint and a replacement seat cover, you'll have a nice looking bike.

I find it refreshing that you will admit that you had to put in $750 to get the bike on the road. Unlike some members on this forum that claim they can get their non running bike roadworthy for $200 including the purchase of the bike, title fees and replacement parts.
 
Looks like someone spent $3.98 on a tube of RTV silicone instead of $4.00 on a set of o-rings.

Why? WHYYYYYYYY??? :mad:


Nice to see someone putting it back on the road right.
 
almarconi said:
A few hundred more for some fresh paint and a replacement seat cover, you'll have a nice looking bike.

I find it refreshing that you will admit that you had to put in $750 to get the bike on the road. Unlike some members on this forum that claim they can get their non running bike roadworthy for $200 including the purchase of the bike, title fees and replacement parts.
Click to expand...

That's what I had thought originally when I picked up my this bike. $500 and its done. Well it turned out to be $500 just in taxes, plates, insurance, and a title! :eek: add in another $700 in parts (including a new Dyna) and I'm still not done. It makes you feel good though, brining back a part of history.
 
almarconi said:
A few hundred more for some fresh paint and a replacement seat cover, you'll have a nice looking bike.

I find it refreshing that you will admit that you had to put in $750 to get the bike on the road. Unlike some members on this forum that claim they can get their non running bike roadworthy for $200 including the purchase of the bike, title fees and replacement parts.
Click to expand...
Not too worried about the paint yet. My philosophy is to prove the mechanicals before making them look good. Already have a seat cover that I had gotten for #2 son's bike, but will put it on here, instead and get a new Travelcade cover for #2 son. I bought the seat from an eBay ad that said the seat pan had been cracked, but repairred. Well, it was repaired, all right, but NOT STRAIGHT. It would require about an inch of spacers under the mounts at either end to keep it from rocking. :eek: At least the cover is useable. Sorry, forgot to include the $40 I paid for that seat in my accounting.

I did not intend this thread to disprove those who brag about getting one on the road real cheap, as I suspect it might be possible, given the right circumstances. This bike obviously does NOT fall into that set of circumstances.

The tires have decent tread, but the date codes are 477 on the front and 327 on the rear. For those that don't understand date codes, that means that both of them were made before the year 2000 (because they only have 3-digit codes) and the front tire was made in the 47th week of a year ending in 7, the rear was made in the 32nd week of a year ending in 7. Could be '87, could be '97. No real way to tell, that is why they started using 4-digit date codes in 2000. So, these tires are either 12 or 22 years old. They are Dunlop Elite II tires, so I suspect they were made in '97. Either way, they are coming OFF. :D And there was no way getting around the battery issue. The bike did not come with one. Just the tires and battery will total over $200. :o
 
I'm of the same mind concerning cosmetics. I have a shopping spreadsheet that's totaling about $850 for my $400 1000G, and I really should throw on another $160 for a pair of diaphragms/slides. I'm thinking that any bike you bring in, you should be ready to spend near $1000 before you consider it roadworthy and safe. Some bikes will take less, I'm just sayin' to be ready.
 
Dogma said:
I'm of the same mind concerning cosmetics. I have a shopping spreadsheet that's totaling about $850 for my $400 1000G, and I really should throw on another $160 for a pair of diaphragms/slides. I'm thinking that any bike you bring in, you should be ready to spend near $1000 before you consider it roadworthy and safe. Some bikes will take less, I'm just sayin' to be ready.
Click to expand...
Yeah, if you take the ballpark figure of one dollar per cc, it's pretty close. You can buy one ready to go for $1000 or you can get a $400 bike and put about $600 into it.

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I also assume that I will be spending between 5-1000 bucks no matter what I pay for the bike. Even my 1100ES, which was running pretty well when i bought it, and looked good as well, ive easily spent that in getting it where I want it. And im still not done...*sigh* LOL
 
Steve said:
He might be able to take it with him when he leaves on Sunday, otherwise, I will be forced to deliver it.
action-smiley-083.gif

.
Click to expand...

Don't you just LOVE IT when people force you to deliver a project! :p

It almost looks like it was slapped full of silicone and put back together. :eek:

As for the electricals, that should be interesting... :lol:
 
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