Choke cable differences and replacement

[Guest]

Alright, I've been rolling through posts for about three weeks now and haven't found just what I need to know so I'm gonna ask my stupid question of the day.
I have an 83 GS750ES with the thumb-wheel lever type choke on the handle bars and on the carb rack the cable is the type that has the small bit'-O-metal crimped to the end which precariously fits in a notch (at least on my bike) in the choke slide which is flatish and rides in two grooves on the carbs. (Wish I had a pic handy..) The choke cable on the carb end has a 90 degree tube fitting that attaches underneath the carb hat/cover screws on I believe the #2 carb.

This 90 degree fitting/tube part of the choke cable is what has me stumped as far as replacing this cable. It appears to be a part of the cable and in order to replace the cable I need to find one that has this bracket on it. When I look at the parts diagram in the fiche it shows a straight cable with no bracket/holder/90 degree thingy so I've been banging my head against the wall trying to figure out what the part number is for this. Or does that bracket come away from the cable some how. I'm afraid to monkey too much with the one I have to try to separate it because maybe this cable is no longer available and then I'm screwed. Can someone please enlighten me. Sorry for the lack of pictures.

I'm gonna go stare at the diagrams again until someone explains it to me and I'm not gonna stop until I get an answer. I may starve to death...but I gotta figure this out

 

[Guest]

I just found that bracket listed as a separate part so maybe it does come off somehow.
Strange though because the cable for my bike shows a long flat thing on the end of it.
Is that the slide that rides in those grooves on the carbs?? and the little Bit-O-metal thingy on the end of mine is actually supposed to be attached permanently to that slide??

 

[tom203]

Are you trying to put this thing back together....missing some parts? Here's a setup on a 850 carb rack

edit..pm me if you like a bigger pic

 

[Burque73]

If you answer yes to Tom203, try pushing a small straw, like one on a can of brake cleaner, into the 90 degree thingy while gently tugging on the cable. For some reason my cable never pulls out of there without fiddling with it for a while. The pressure applied wit the straw helps guide the cable out.

 

[Guest]

Are you trying to put this thing back together....missing some parts? Here's a setup on a 850 carb rackView attachment 57990

edit..pm me if you like a bigger pic

yes that’s what I have im just a little confused about what the cable looks like. I’d hate to order it and wait to find out it’s wrong

 

[Guest]

I don’t think im missing parts but I’ll try the straw trick and see what happens. The cable is disintegrating up by the barrel on the choke thumb lever. I’m sure it has a couple cycles before it lets go. Thanks for the help!

 

[Guest]

Looking at a clearer picture i now see the flat thing i saw on the end is actually a transparent tube that probably inserts into the 90 bracket. Mystery solved. Lol

 

[Steve]

The cable should pull easily out of the 90? bracket (which is mounted on #3 carb), and should go back in just as easily.

To remove the cable, spread apart the two forks that hold the end to the #4 "choke" linkage, remove the cable. Pull on the sheath above the 90? bracket, the whole cable will just slide right out.

.

 

[Guest]

The cable should pull easily out of the 90? bracket (which is mounted on #3 carb), and should go back in just as easily.

To remove the cable, spread apart the two forks that hold the end to the #4 "choke" linkage, remove the cable. Pull on the sheath above the 90? bracket, the whole cable will just slide right out.

.

Yes had a look this weekend and got her figured out. Now if I could just figure out how to get my fuel petcock to pass fuel through I'd be in business. It's been sitting for a few years and the petcock appears to be stuck shut. Probably the diaphram got stuck in the closed postion. I let it set a few day with clean gas in the tank and worked the lever back and forth from time to time and tried starting the bike to get some vacuum on diaphram to loosen it up but no luck. I really don't want to ruin it by disassembling. I did try removing the screws but it didn't act like it was going to separate willingly... Had this problem with a 94 GSXR750 and ended up buying a replacement from Pingle. I wonder if they make em for these bikes...

 

[Steve]

If you remove the screws on the diaphragm side, you can remove the cover to see if the diaphragm is stuck. There is a plunger in the center of the diaphragm that has an o-ring on it that blocks the fuel flow until it is pulled out of the way by vacuum. That o-ring can get stuck in place if it is not exercised occasionally. No amount of clean gas on the end of the plunger will unstick the o-ring, it will have to be done manually. When you unstick it, clean up the inevitable corrosion in the channel, re-assemble, test, ride.

.

 

[Guest]

Yup, o-ring stuck. Put a new o-ring in and good as new.. for now. I made a silly mistake though. Once I got the gas to flow I started it up and gas started pouring out my pod filters onto the trans. This was strange because I had the bike running during the winter after cleaning and calibrating the carbs using a funnel on the fuel line to pour gas in the bowls. I had decided to put caps on the two bowl vents because having two outlets sitting there to collect dirt bothered me. UGH. Anyway, after undoing my stupidity the bike ran and I took it for a ride for the first time in about 8 years. I do love it. Reminded me why I'm putting all this time and money into it. The wife is excited too because I'll probably teach her to ride on it.

One more question not worth starting another thread for...
Anyone have any experience rejuvenating a set of the mercury type sync gauges. I've had my set for probably well over 15 years and I've always tried to keep them stored upright and undisturbed, but at some point I developed some gaps in the mercury. I'm just wondering if I should remove the mercury (which kind of disturbs me) and get new for it (I've seen it sold separately just for this purpose) or should I just leave it alone and calibrate each vial to one cylinder everytime I use it? I want to use it this weekend on this bike and my gsxr600. I would really like to get the type that uses the steel balls instead of mercury. Seems like it'd be so much easier to store and use. But no one stocks these tools anymore and I really hate waiting for shipping. Maybe I just need to learn how to calibrate my old set and use it?

 

[Guest]

Yup, o-ring stuck. Put a new o-ring in and good as new.. for now. I made a silly mistake though. Once I got the gas to flow I started it up and gas started pouring out my pod filters onto the trans. This was strange because I had the bike running during the winter after cleaning and calibrating the carbs using a funnel on the fuel line to pour gas in the bowls. I had decided to put caps on the two bowl vents because having two outlets sitting there to collect dirt bothered me. UGH. Anyway, after undoing my stupidity the bike ran and I took it for a ride for the first time in about 8 years. I do love it. Reminded me why I'm putting all this time and money into it. The wife is excited too because I'll probably teach her to ride on it.

One more question not worth starting another thread for...
Anyone have any experience rejuvenating a set of the mercury type sync gauges. I've had my set for probably well over 15 years and I've always tried to keep them stored upright and undisturbed, but at some point I developed some gaps in the mercury. I'm just wondering if I should remove the mercury (which kind of disturbs me) and get new for it (I've seen it sold separately just for this purpose) or should I just leave it alone and calibrate each vial to one cylinder everytime I use it? I want to use it this weekend on this bike and my gsxr600. I would really like to get the type that uses the steel balls instead of mercury. Seems like it'd be so much easier to store and use. But no one stocks these tools anymore and I really hate waiting for shipping. Maybe I just need to learn how to calibrate my old set and use it?

There are several manufacturers now that produce needle style gauges that work very well. I bought a set at an autoparts store, but it would have been cheaper to purchase online. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/AlphaMoto-Mo...ion+pro&qid=1558107733&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmr3 Works great, easy to calibrate, easy to use, should last a long time.

 

[Guest]

Yeah, I see a lot of those on Amazon cheap. Knowing how much a good gauge costs I couldn't see how they could have four of them mounted on a bracket and have them be any good for 30-60$. But if you suggest them I might have to give them a shot down the road. I actually have two guages that were my dad's from back in his hill climbing days in the 70's. They are good gauges and if I could put together four of them I could make my own! Add another project to heap please lol

 

[Guest]

Just for fun, this is how she's sittin' right now..

 

[Guest]

Yeah, I see a lot of those on Amazon cheap. Knowing how much a good gauge costs I couldn't see how they could have four of them mounted on a bracket and have them be any good for 30-60$. But if you suggest them I might have to give them a shot down the road. I actually have two guages that were my dad's from back in his hill climbing days in the 70's. They are good gauges and if I could put together four of them I could make my own! Add another project to heap please lol

Never used that brand, so cant speak to their quality, but the one I bought works well, and I don't think I paid more than $70 for it. I've used it a grand total of 2 times in as many years so it may not be durable. It mostly lives in its box on a shelf in the garage.

 

[Steve]

I have a set of mercury gauges. I have removed gaps in the columns by VERY CAREFULLY using a syringe on the vacuum tube to PUSH air down the column to purge any mercury and air out. When you release the pressure, only mercury will come into the tube, so there will be no gaps. Of course, this assumes that you have enough mercury in the reservoir to accommodate all four columns.

I have all of the major types of carb sync gauges: mercury, Motion Pro "blue fluid", OEM Suzuki (with the balls) and a Morgan Carbtune. The "blue fluid" gauge has a leak in one column, so it does not get used at all. It has been a while, but I seem to remember that it needed to be calibrated/adjusted whenever it was used. The Suzuki gauge with the balls DOES require calibration before use. The Carbtune does not need calibration, just connect the hoses and adjust the carbs. The mercury set also needs no adjustment. In fact, mercury is the standard to which ALL other gauges are calibrated.

I used to have a set of analog (needle-type) gauges that I borrowed when necessary. They require calibration at least once, then with reasonable care, should be OK for a while. However, I got tired of the bouncing needles (even using dampers) and got a mercury gauge.

If I am going to be in my shop, I reach for my mercury sticks. If I am going to travel, I take the Carbtune.

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