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Choke mounts Mikuni BS32

Striker

Forum Apprentice
I no longer intend to have a choke lever on the handlebar

What options do I have to mount it at a different space either a plunger close to carbs or close to tank!


But haven't found any options for plungers or any innovative solutions


Any helps and suggestions would be appreciated

Thank you
 
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What bike? Suzuki never installed VM34 carbs on a GS. Please tell us you didn't buy a set of Murry carbs, or similar! :rolleyes:

Edit: Based on your past posts, you have a 650, so that means your bike has Mikuni BS32 CV type carburetors. I think your best would be to fabricate a shorty choke cable with the handle mounted on the carbs themselves. Or, modify the choke rod and add a handle. Some fabrication work is in your future.
 
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Not sure about the CV32's but I do know Mikuni did make the CV34's with a choke on the carbs, for some KZ 1000 and KZ1100 models. I sure wish I had a set of them for my GS1100E. Just thinking possibly they may have made the 32's for smaller Kawa's with choke on carbs. Maybe worth a search.
 
The KZ choke setup uses a pull knob on the actuation rod that pulls the plungers open. To hold the plungers open, there are two small springs and balls, which engage with depressions on the choke rod. It would not be possible to retrofit the hardware for this setup into a set of GS carbs, because the carb bodies are different. One would have to purchase a set of KZ flavor Mikuni's...and then fiddle around with the jetting to get the bike to run right.

kz carb choke by nessism, on Flickr
 
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Dang Ed, you sure got a handle on these things. Do you know if Mikuni made a CV32 that would be reasonably adapted to a GS650? Back in the day, I drilled a small hole in the little flat piece at the left end of that actuation rod, and installed a knob like in the picture with a small screw, easy enough. Worked well except it was hard to find a way to hold choke open and at 1/2 way out. I rigged up a little springy thing that kind'f worked, but a set of those Kawasaki carbs should be a bolt on with the correct size jets.
 
These are from a KZ650. I suspect the jetting would be fairly close. The KZ650 shares spacing with the KZ750/900/1000/1100, which shares spacing with the GS750/100/1100 bikes. I think, though, that the GS550/650 spacing is narrower. I may be wrong, though.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/156320285502
 
What bike? Suzuki never installed VM34 carbs on a GS. Please tell us you didn't buy a set of Murry carbs, or similar! :rolleyes:

Edit: Based on your past posts, you have a 650, so that means your bike has Mikuni BS32 CV type carburetors. I think your best would be to fabricate a shorty choke cable with the handle mounted on the carbs themselves. Or, modify the choke rod and add a handle. Some fabrication work is in your future.

Why is murray so bad? Just curious as I'm fairly new to the rebuilding game!
 
Why is murray so bad? Just curious as I'm fairly new to the rebuilding game!

They're not bad, as such. Just that, compared to stripping and cleaning the originals, they're an expensive way of getting carb performance back. Even so, with the Murray you only get two-carb performance, which will suit a lot of people. Hardly anyone ragging these bike around nowadays, so who will notice.
 
They're not bad, as such. Just that, compared to stripping and cleaning the originals, they're an expensive way of getting carb performance back. Even so, with the Murray you only get two-carb performance, which will suit a lot of people. Hardly anyone ragging these bike around nowadays, so who will notice.


What is two carb performance?

Like the stock 4 carb performance is equivalent to a murray two carb?
 
Sorry I still don't understand the statement

"Even so, with the Murray you only get two-carb performance"
 
Let's put it this way: with the stock carbs, airbox, and exhaust, the bike will purr like a kitten at idle, and pull HARD to redline at full throttle, all while running STOCK jetting. A set of carb O-rings is $20, and a can of carb dip is similar.
Murray carbs are $700 + tax + shipping, and there is no guarantee they will run as well. I'd be seriously surprised if they make as much power as stock, regardless of what they claim.
 
Gotcha!
Now that I have it barely running! I would be focusing on cleaning up the wiring and then starting on carbs!

I also saw this video from z’s garage where he tried Murray and ended up not working for him and he had to bare shipping charges


i would rather spend that money on something else than a new set of carbs.
 
Check my signature for a carb rebuild tutorial, and O-rings. A proper rebuild is simple if you follow the steps, and don't shortcut.
 
As good as all the GS's I've been around have ran with a set of clean OEM carbs, stock air box & filter, and no air leaks, I can't imagine anything making them run any better.
 
As good as all the GS's I've been around have ran with a set of clean OEM carbs, stock air box & filter, and no air leaks, I can't imagine anything making them run any better.

Pods, 4-into-1, and proper (on a dynomometer) jetting. :rugby: Wake up the neighbors!
 
Rob, The pipe and jetting and dyno tuning may make them run stronger, not sure I've seen those things make them run "better".
 
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