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Choke not staying in place (1980 GS1100ex wont idle)

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
Let me thank you all right now for getting my baby up and running normal.


Currently my chain needs to be replaced i was thinking about getting the RK 630 apparently its 98 links and i have 96 but the shop said they would take off the extra link for me.

Clutch Cable adjustment, in the manual it says have a 2mm gap, but with a 2mm gap i find that the clutch does not start transferring power until half way release. At something more reasonable i find gear shifting a little harder. Any pointers on finding the best place for my clutch to reside?
 
2-3mm is the correct amount of play/slack at the lever. Make sure the cable is routed correctly and lubed.
 
Hah! so i thought my bike was running.

I rode around my bike for a good 5-6 miles and it was running like a beauty, i return home park it and when i come back to it later that night i start her up and its having a very labored time starting, it eventually gets going but even after a sustained time with the choke on it wont idle by itself. i turn the choke off it dies, i try to start it again and gas starts spilling from either carb 3 or 4 (on the right).

The bike was not doing it before, when i had ridden it earlier and when i tried to start it a bit later after that it did a backfire into what looked like carb 4 and smoke came out.

What caused the gas to pour out? this is exactly the symptom that occurred which led me to rebuild carb 4 in the first place. (after inspection it was found that the float in carb 4 was bent and had a crack in it). I have a new float in carb 4 so i am pretty confused.
 
Sounds like it's leaking fuel into the carb bowl(s) and flooding while it sits.
A high fuel level in the bowls is caused by an incorrectly set float height, a worn float needle valve/seat, dirt interfering with the seating of the float needle valve, a bad o-ring at the valve (if you have an o-ring), or a damaged float.
If the overflow is at #3 carb, I believe this is the carb that supplies vacuum to the petcock. The #3 carb can be flooded by a leaking petcock vacuum line in addition to the problems above.
Don't over use the choke. This just makes it harder for the plugs to fire.
A poor idle can also be clogged pilot jet(s). I don't understand how the bike seems to want the choke if it's flooding and overflowing. In addition to a high floatbowl fuel level, you may also have clogged pilot jet(s). Take the carbs apart and check everything.
 
Re: Fuel system Check

Re: Fuel system Check

I have a 1980 GSX1100 engine and the manual for it. 2.7 quarts is the correct amount. Three quarts would be the most you should put in it.
Is the bike sitting level and on the CENTERSTAND. Oil level cannot be judged with the bike leaning on the kickstand.

Earl


Orthok said:
Oil Capacity 1980 GS1100 EX
in my Manual is says 2.7 when replacing filter also...i have put in 4 and my level is still not up to Full. There are no visible leakings at the filter or the oil drain plug.

Now i was pretty thorough when i removed the oil from the bike, rocking it a few time to get as much out as possible (due to possible gas contamination in oil). Should i keep putting in oil till it gets up to the "F" or is there something else i should check?
Click to expand...
 
with the bike on centerstand i had to put in 4.5 quarts to get to the full line in my 1980/81 gs1100 ex. Go fig ?!
 
How important is the Pilot Jet plug, i think i may have lost it (it is missing from carb 4).
 
also how important are hoses attached to "T" vent lines in between carbs?
 
Orthok: This time last year I changed the oil in my 1100 and I've still got part of the 4Litre jug at my place. I didn't run the bike after the change but I did fill it past the top of the oil site just in case. My plan is to dump the oil after I'm done storing the bike so I didn't worry about the level but I still didn't use a whole jug.

I believe the Vent lines are optional as they are used to direct spilt gas away from the engine. I doubt the plugs are optional though. The ones in my 1100 are dried out and hard but I'm hoping they expand once they get some gas on them some time next year...

Steve
 
cool, well i found a replacement plug so awesome.

addtional parts i noticed i had on my carb that the carb rebuild kit did not give parts for are on the Needle valve seat i had a strainer on the end of it, and on the oppisite side where the needle valve is a metal spring. Ive decided to leave my stock needle valve pin and seat since the new ones did not have fittings for these, additionally i broke the metal strainer so ive taken it off with hopes that it is not neccessary.
 
What brand of kit did you buy? I bought some generic float valves and they came with the grooves for the strainers so I put them on. The only thing I was missing was a washer for one of the pilot jets but I don't think they are too important.

Steve
 
Humm Time For a New Approach

Humm Time For a New Approach

#4 Cylinder has a weak spark? and the bike runs after sitting (for a short period)?
Have you checked the charging and ignition circuits? I had the exact same problem ... it turned out to be a failed stator (I also had a failed vacuum diaphragm).

good luck
Kurt Worden
 
well there are a few cracks in my diaphram but i dont know if they are serious.
 
Yeah, for 60 bucks each. Somebody here posted a way of fixing them though. I think they used some kind of glue.

Steve
 
just put everything back together and set my bike to prime then sucked on the vacume line so that it would start filling the floats and nothing it only stays coming out as long as im sucking on it. wont continue flowing when set on prime after i stop sucking on it.

I then decided i would take it off prime and suck on it a long time to fill the float bowls manually then when i try to start the bike no luck. Is it supposed to stop once vacum is halted when set on prime? cause it was working fine before i took it off
 
According to the factory manual, these 1980 petcocks require cranking the motor to initiate fuel flow when on prime. With the slot vertical, you're on prime.
 
Ok, thanks...i just remember before i took off my tank from the bike that if i merely sucked on the vacume hose once when it was on prime the flow would continuously. Now if i do that it will only flow as long as i suck.

Additionally with it on the bike when i crank the engine i don't seem to be pulling very much fuel into the floats.
 
From what you say, if it was me, I would look into a Pingel fuel valve and get to riding.
 
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