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Cilynder Stud Removal Question......

  • Thread starter Thread starter TeamNeal
  • Start date Start date
T

TeamNeal

Guest
Hello all at the venerable GSR.COM! Althoug this is my first post here, I have been using this forum for good (and a little evil:D) knowledgeable advice thanks to all of you.

So here goes....... I am currently doing a 550/673cc swap and am wanting to remove the cilynder studs to prepare the gasket mating surfaces for rebuild. Is there a method other than the good 'ol double dragon (nut) one? Is stud removal (ill)advised? And has anyone had experience with the Titan impact stud puller?.... any info or advice is welcomed and appreciated. I would like to use the Search function to find all this out, not crash my browser time after time( enter Sammy Cahn/ Cindy Lauper tune here)
Ill post pictures of bikes soon. Thanks in advance, Neal.:cool:
 
As to cylinder studs ??? LEAVE them alone. You can clean the surface without removing them
 
I had to take mine out, a little double nut action, out they came. It was pretty easy.

There are several of us doing the 550/675 mod now, what are your plans for it?

Welcome to the forum.
 
Okie dokie.... in addition cleaning the surface, I wanted to clean and de-rust the lil bastards. I could always wirewheel them but evapo-rust is my go to method for that... is there any reason why, besides the potentially obvious one?
 
they seem to be

they seem to be

There is some aluminum oxidation around the base on the block.. used P'Blaster and soaked them for a couple days; no movement. All my mechanical skills are ASE automotive and assumed it translates to motorcycles. But still am learning.
My original plans were to build the quickest 550 possible, but while cleaning up the intake runners my brass brush discovered a huge casting void underneath one of the valve seats. New boat anchor (literally). So I looked for a replacement head on the internet machine. Every one that looked serviceable did not include the cam bearing caps!:mad: SO I found a 650g motor for a swap. Every thing is going smoothly but I cannot get these studs out without fear of damaging the threads in the upper case half. I have already ported and polished the 650 head and boy does it look cherry. All volume measured and equal. Just cannot wait to assemble!
 
I'd like to see the port job. Did you do it yourself? Hell I'd like to see the casting void too!

There's a great home made magic sauce a lot of us use for stuck threads, better than anything you can buy. 50/50 mix of acetone and Marvel Mystery Oil. Use heat, some time to sit, and some violence, it will come out.
 
Werd, pictures soon......... I have a tablet for my computer. Its kinda difficult. Still figuring out how.
 
Double nut and some heat. They're installed with a thread locking compound, so no need to get it red hot or risk melting stuff -- just sorta steamy will soften the thread lock sufficiently.
 
photos

photos

In link above. Im almost finished polishing the upper case half.:D:D looking pretty bling.and a pain in the ass.
 
If you do much stud removing, the best tool is the snap-on A50A stud remover. It slides over the stud and there's a wedge/cam that locks on the studs. You can get different size wedges for different thickness studs.
A50A
I've tried the Craftsman and another brand - junk by comparison.

You can find these on ebay in the $30-$60 range.
 
jeff.saunders said:
If you do much stud removing, the best tool is the snap-on A50A stud remover. It slides over the stud and there's a wedge/cam that locks on the studs. You can get different size wedges for different thickness studs.
A50A
I've tried the Craftsman and another brand - junk by comparison.

You can find these on ebay in the $30-$60 range.
Click to expand...

I've got one of these, never failed to remove a stud with it yet.

TeamNeal - I saw this on your Photobucket page

adc57be76a73028ec394284be4e936fa7d1fcb08_zpsy28mrjft.jpg


WTF? More info please
 
Ok. I just got my torch back and I will try heat and double nutz method. Oh and Druid, that mono_moto is still a mystery to me. I saw it somewhere on the internet and saved the picture to possibly reverse engineer the thing..... one day.... but I really like the one wheeled motorcycle idea. But for now......
 
I did a bit of research and found out some more about that monomoto.

mv_augusta_unicycle.jpg


agusta2.jpg


"J. Wood & Company has held an annual auction in Daytona for the past 20 years. This year, they auctioned off a very interesting piece of art that fetched a very interesting price. At the very least, it a well thought out piece of motorcycle racing art, that comes with an unbelievable story.

Here is the story that came with the bike….

"This MV Augusta 60cc Monomoto Superleggera is the experimental machine ridden by young wealthy Italian Luiggi Bandini, during practice for the 1954 Milano-Taranto Road Race. Bandini tragically lost control in a misty mountain section, while waving to a pretty spectator. His grief stricken father, Count Enzio Bandini, “The Falcon,” never again permitted anyone to ride or even view this advanced design, and knowledge of its whereabouts faded. Eventually, rumors of this fascinating machine reached the motorcycling bon vivant Todd Fell. On a trip to Naples, Italy, his quest to find it was rewarded at the Bandini country villa, where in 2004, fifty years after the tragic accident, the late Count’s family was persuaded to part with the treasure."
Click to expand...

Right, that's dragged this thread pretty far off topic ;)
 
Need me a stud remover. Watching some Snap-on A50A's, but can't find a decent one with the smaller rack to remove the 5/16" studs.

Anyone have a recommendation on a half way decent unit that's reasonably priced?
 
Hi, had exactly the same problem. No stud remover I could find would go down small enough to grip. In the end I had to use a combination of penetrating fluid followed by heat. To turn I had to use the 2 nuts (in fact I had to use 3) with a spanner along with a stilson/pipe wrench on the shaft. Took some doing and will require the stud to be replaced but it worked..!! On the sheared stud I had to do the same but with a slot cut in the end for an impact driver/screwdriver.

gGCofzB.jpg


Thankfully the studs are easily available...!!

Good luck with work.
 
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