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  • Thread starter Thread starter bighamms
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MOST and i reiterate MOST selinoids are the same in working principles.. Now i would say to ask someone like Cheff , Tkent, Nessism, Rustybronco, or The Cafe Kid on that issue. So now all you gotta do is find the appropriate selinoid, swap that out and reckeck that when you push the button she kicks. Then it will be on to carbs rebuilt and then the firing up process can begin. She may start now and run, but if it has been sitting for a while its advisable to do the complete and full tear down of the carbs right from the getgo..saves many headcahes down the road.
 
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Haven't tried it myself, but I hear that tractor solenoids available for cheap at lowes/home depot/tsc work as great replacements on GSes, and bolt almost directly up as replacements. May want to try a forum search for "tractor solenoid".
 
@ chuck... the carbs are in great condition. While waiting on replies to my posts over the last few days, I've taken them off and prepared them for rebuild/cleaning. the previous owner told me that he had done this prior to storing it, but as everyone knows, never believe the PO. As it turns out, the carbs are immaculate. The rubber seals are not brittle or cracks. the bowls and interiors are are clean and i sprayed carb cleaner in all the passages to make sure nothing was lodged. The diaphragms are still rubbery and all the moving parts appear to work fine. The PO told me that he stored it dry 3 years ago, and the tank, carbs and petcocks verify that.

@ mike....say not more...i'm on it. I did a quick search on the ether and found that tons of people run the tractor relay setup. All say the same thing, just make sure that the relay you purchase looks the same as the one you replace. Running to pick it up now, will report back soon.
 
More great news. I went to Lowes and picked up a tractor solenoid. The model they carried is made by MTD and meant for use with all of their brands of garden tractors. I was a bit skeptical, so before committing to the purchase, I ran to my local farm and feed which sells real tractors. As it turns out, there replacement solenoid was the exact same as the MTD model. Bought it at Lowes, paid $14.00. Hooked it up and viole, turns right over. Now I'll put the carbs and tank back on, supply a little petrol and see where that gets me.
 
welcome to the world of the true motorcyclist. Wrench..ride..break..wrench..ride..break..repeat as necessary
 
Gents,

Sorry for delay... It turns over, sounds strong, but have not reinstalled the tank or carbs. Was actually considering blowing off my dear old mum on mothers day just so that I could stay at home and work on the bike. I'm addicted. Everything will be put back together this week. Will definitely let you know when it fires up for the first time.
 
Anyone ever find out of the guys bike runs?? Was interested in seeing the final result once we figured the engine wasnt seized.....
 
@ chuck... Gents, sorry for the delay, I've been on holiday for a few weeks. Ok, so here's where we are at. After an unsuccessful attempt to have a new key made for the old ignition cylinder, i decided to buy a direct replacement ignition (EMGO 40-71010). Fit like a glove...but no start. When I put the key in the "ON" position, i get power to all areas of the bike (horn, lights, ignition switch, etc...). But when I push the start button, NOTHING. No sound what's so ever. I've since taken the ignition switch apart and cleaned every nook and cranny. Did not make a difference. Decided to check the wiring within the ignition cylinder, and the wiring line up is different than on the original cylinder (original: Orange, Red, Brown, Grey.......New cyclinder: Red, Orange, Brown, Grey). Now i'm wondering whether a factory miswire on the new cylinder could be the culprit. Maybe the ignition switch is not getting the signal. Any help would be appreciated.

rob
 
look on the cylinder sides of the OLD ignition..there should be a set of numbers on there..That nis the key code. If not there take the seat latch off an look that over as well.. usually both the seat latch lock and the ignition are stamped with the key code.
 
@ chuck... found the number. It does NOT match the number of the NEW cylinder, but not sure it would. When I purchased the NEW cylinder, I did some research to make sure I was getting the best price. Ebay, JCWhitney and Powersport all referenced the same EMGO model number for my year and model.

It has to be something super simple. I decided to eliminate a bad starter motor so jumped it directly from battery and it turns over (no gas tank so it didn't fire up).

I have the original start switch which I replaced due to a broke push button. Aside from the push button, the switch is fully functional. Neither the old or new switch make any noise when button is pushed. Something has to be interrupting the signal between starter button and solenoid.
 
Thats weird..I thought that a few weeks ago it was all working just fine..maybe i am mistaken but i thought that the thing cranked when you pushed the starter buttton after you had replaced the starter selinoid!!
 
@ chuck.... i LOOOOOOOVE this site. I went back to forum to see if you had replied and accidentally clicked an a thread regarding a solenoid issues (which was the reason I started my thread). So i figured i would read through and try to help answer... That's when it hit me. CLUTCH SAFETY wires. They weren't originally hooked up, but when i took apart the cluster and light to install new ignition cylinder, decided to hook them up (didn't know what they were at the time). As it turns out, I had them backwards. Just disconnected them and push the button and it fired right up.....

Alright man, I'm not done with you yet. I've got some more tinkering to do.
 
Cool..So now you can reinstall the ORIGINAL ignition and use those numbers so a locksmith can cut you a key.. Keep the replacement you bought for a spare just in case...or return it once you get a key cut if you need the cash.
 
@ chuck.. unfortunately, the ORIGINAL is shot. I replaced it because I accidentally put it in the "PARK" position and because of its age, the tumblers will not disengage allowing it to go back to ON. I took it to a locksmith, but was told that the bench fee would be $45-60 to rebuild it. JCWhitney had the new ignition on sale for $8.68. Huge difference. At that price, i'm willing to carry 2 keys (1 for ign. and 1 for tank/storage).
 
Well ya didnt say all that!! I was thinking you had just lost the key!! LOL. Yeah that makes sense for 9 bucks!!!
 
Just looking over this again. And we still don't know if bike is running? Or did I miss another thread? terrylee
 
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