Clutch cover removel, tips&tricks

[Runeight]

Next week I want to remove the right side cover for clutch inspection, case sanding and polish. Any tips/tricks from members who have done this always appreciated. Do's and don't if you will. I plan on marking the ignition plate for reference.

I have read that a 500 basket/clutch is a nice upgrade. I'm thinking about replacing the clutch plates while I'm in there. Probably never done, 11,200 kilometers on the bike. Opinions?

TIA.

 

[tkent02]

Clutch plates don't wear with time, only the springs get shorter. I couldn't make my 450 clutch slip even a little bit, even with the original springs, plates and with a 500cc top end. I wouldn't fix it if it isn't broke.

 

[tkent02]

Unless the reason they are using the 500 clutch is to alter the primary ratio or something?

 

[Runeight]

Thanks Tom. I wouldn't know the advantages for the GS, just read it here. (Old post maybe) Was a direct bolt on minus the oil pump gear which you swap out.

So, just mark the ignition plate and remove. I need to read up and see what the large bolt is on the bottom of cover.

 

[tkent02]

Can't remember for sure, but I think there might have been a clutch cover screw hidden under that cover, or someplace tricky. Don't force anything.

 

[Runeight]

Appears to be a drain plug. Number 9 and 10.

 

[Runeight]

Any special tools needed to replace the plates? None that I can see reading the book.

As long as the cover is off its worth doing to me. Only thing amiss is the torque setting of the springs. My book says 4 to 7 ft lbs. Doesn't sound right.

 

[tkent02]

That's actually 48 - 84 inch pounds, that's a lot, they are tiny screws. Don't use a big foot pound torque wrench, you'll break them off.

 

[hillsy]

4-7 ft/lbs is pretty standard for M6 bolts.

Another tip - if you're lucky you can undo all the cover bolts and slide a feeler gauge between the gasket / cover / crankcase and remove the gasket in one piece.

 

[tkent02]

I think they're M5 bolts. Don't have any here to look at but I think it's M5.

 

[Guest]

Appears to be a drain plug. Number 9 and 10.

It's not really a drain plug but a cap for the main oil gallery under the main bearings. It's capped off by the left side cover, but they decided to put a plug on this side, maybe for attaching a pressure gauge. ??

The screws marked 4 are really easy to forget; they're inside the ignition housing. I'm ashamed to admit how I know how easy it is to forget them ?. and how nicely the cover comes off when you remember.

 

[Runeight]

Got it guys. Yes, I have a couple of inch pound torque wrenches.

Getting my order together. Plates, fiber plates and springs.

>hilsy, new gasket going on but a good tip none the less.

 

[Guest]

I'm thinking about replacing the clutch plates while I'm in there. Probably never done, 11,200 kilometers on the bike. Opinions?

My opinion is that you obviously have a bunch more money than I do. 11,000km on the bike is NOTHING. Unless those kilometers have been put on 1/4 mile at a time, they are still virtually new. You should not even have to think about them until well over 100,000km, and even then, they will still look rather new.

It is the SPRINGS that you need to change, and it will obviously take a gasket in the process. Total cost: about $30. The steel disks are just over $6 each (and there are about 8 of them (not sure about your particular bike)), the fibers are about $13 each (and there are about 8 of them). That is over $150 that you are going to be spending "just because you are in there".

I'll send you my information, next time you feel like spending money needlessly, just send it my way, OK?

 

[Runeight]

Wow!

Wow!

The only reason for doing this is as follows. When I purchased the bike the PO gave me what receipts he had including the original bill of sale. When I reviewed the receipts several days later there was one that basically had the entire top end rebuilt. Rings, piston pins, valve seals, valve job and more. I keep in contact with him on the progress of the motorcycle. He still loves it but no time to restore or fix it up. (Flies corporate jets, invited to ride along, out of Vegas)

I questioned why this work was done 1300 miles ago by the clock, back in 1991. I wanted to know. Seems he loaned the bike to his nephew for a couple of months while on a break from college and working a summer job. When he got the bike back, went for a ride and whoops, didn't run very well. He told me no fault of the bike but rather his nephew. Had the usual tip over damage also. Bent shifter, brake pedal, dented exhaust pipe.

The parts to do the clutch is $150 total. No biggie here, retired with no worries for monies. You could very well be correct in your assumption. Yes, I could remove the plates, meausure everything and re-install. I could also just replace everything and be done with it.

I have no intentions of selling the bike and will probably give it to my Grandson in the event of my death. He is 7 now. My Ducati goes to my Great Nephew. He is 1.

And now you know the rest of the story. Back in the doghouse. (Signature)

 

[JRHemmen]

I had my cover off a few weeks ago and yes, make sure you don't forget the little screws inside the points cover. Also, there's a bolt head on the bottom side of where the points are, I forget the exact size but it was big, over 17mm. This doesn't need removed, as it's attached to a dowel that helps make sure you've got it lined up. Surprisingly this was the easiest gasket to replace on my 36 year old engine, it came off in just a few pieces. I swapped my springs as well, they're about 2mm taller when standing next to the old ones.

 

[JRHemmen]

I can't post a picture from mobile, but here's a link to what the inside of mine looks like. You can look around that section of the album to see some of the other clutch cover pictures. The bolts around the cover are different sizes, so just be sure to note what order they were in as well.


https://flic.kr/p/ENVnbm