Clutch Oil Seal ID on 1980 GS450

[apopleptic]

I know that this has been touched on, but haven't seen any threads with a clear answer on how to ID the oil seal on the clutch rod (part 22)

There has to be an obvious way to tell which part I

need to ID without having to put a screw through the old one to pull it out.
Can anyone provide what I will need to take off the bike to ID this part?
My leak from this spot is very minimal, I'd like to keep the bike in service until the replacement parts get here.
Can I just take off the clutch cover and look for some key difference? I've not ever removed this part yet, can anyone put up a picture of theirs?
Other than the very small leak the clutch is working OK and I don't want to over disassemble without needing to, I'd rather let it leak. I know that's a poor idea, but damn I don't want to build a completely new bike, just to fix this one for enjoyment.

 

[cowboyup3371]

The part number is on the fiche that you pulled that picture from.

22-1 OIL SEAL (6x34x8)
09283-06002 1$7.67

22-2 OIL SEAL (6X34X10)
09285-06011 1$6.07

 

[apopleptic]

The part number is on the fiche that you pulled that picture from.

22-1 OIL SEAL (6x34x8)
09283-06002 1$7.67

22-2 OIL SEAL (6X34X10)
09285-06011 1$6.07

Yes, now how do I know which one I need?

 

[cowboyup3371]

I went back and looked at the fiche at Alpha Sports and found they broke it down a little better by model.

Here you go

09283-06002 OIL SEAL (6x34x8) 1[COLOR=#00800] FLANGED TYPE [/COLOR]

 

[apopleptic]

ok, I don't doubt you, but where do you see it broken down by model? I'm just trying to learn.
When I look at mine the list for the 80ST it lists both of them right by each other.
they both list a holder, is the differene Identifiable by if it has 23 or 24? I dont think 23 and 24 would be on the same motor. I'm not really able to take off my clutch cover until Tuesday because I'm going to need to drill out a few screws and replace them with hex head bolts from http://www.z1enterprises.com/

 

[cowboyup3371]

Go to http://www.alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm, scroll down to 1980 in the left hand frame, scroll down to 1980 450ST in the center frame, and select the clutch fiche.

 

[apopleptic]

Go to http://www.alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm, scroll down to 1980 in the left hand frame, scroll down to 1980 450ST in the center frame, and select the clutch fiche.

did exactly that.
I am attaching a screenshot.
I have circled my point of confusion.
I realize that the 710 is a typo but it tells me both of those seals are #22
What tells you that it is one or the other?

 

[cowboyup3371]

Now I see it, sorry

I think your best bet will be to just dig it out, look at it, and then order one. Seems there's a difference between the two (flanged and sometype of a holder) but I don't know if it's really that exact. I'd probably go the smaller one and call it good.

 

[apopleptic]

haha, you had me going for a little bit.
Usually I'm pretty smart about this stuff, but I thought I was missing something somewhere.
I'll start tapping out the screws in the cover (all rounded) and I'll let you know what I figure out. Meanwhile I'm still accepting any insight available =)

 

[apopleptic]

OK, I was able to remove those stuck rounded screws with an EZ out.

Now I'm faced with a bit of a mess

Can anyone tell me what I'm looking at here. I'm not sure where all this gunk is from or what to do next. I'm not sure that the oil seal I was originally looking for is the cause of this leak. Thoughts?

 

[Nessism]

I'd order both of them so you can be sure to have what you need.

You need to clean off that gunk, then remove the sprocket nut and sprocket before you can remove the seal retainer shield.

 

[Guest]

Man I completely missed this thread!

The Alpha Sports fiche tells you based on what retainer you have (if any).

Parts 23/24 indicate which oil seal they work with.

As to that picture, yeah do what Ed says, clean that gunk! Good degreaser and get rid of it.

I think I can make out the shape of number 24 retainer there, and if that's the case it means you need 09285-06011.

You need to clean it and confirm though...

 

[apopleptic]

OK, am I looking at this right?

marked #31 and #26 can you confirm this is right?
marked as ? = screws included in Z1 screw kit? they came today and I'm trying to match them up
marked as ?? = can't find in parts list?
marked as ??? = also can't find in list. also how do I remove the clutch cable from this?

Also can someone please quickly ID 1, 2, 3 and tell me how much oil is going to pour out when I take off 4

 

[Guest]

OK, am I looking at this right?

marked #31 and #26 can you confirm this is right?
marked as ? = screws included in Z1 screw kit? they came today and I'm trying to match them up
marked as ?? = can't find in parts list?
marked as ??? = also can't find in list. also how do I remove the clutch cable from this?

Also can someone please quickly ID 1, 2, 3 and tell me how much oil is going to pour out when I take off 4

Ok, first photo: 26 and 31 look right. Your first ? is 29/30 and not part of the Z1 kit (external screws only in the kit).

?? and ??? are all part of 26 even though they don't exactly make that clear in the fiche.

To remove the clutch cable, you need to loosen the adjustment off on top of the sprocket cover which will allow the nipple on the end of the cable to drop down enough you will be able to slide the cable out the slot in that little bracket there.

Second photo: 1 may weep a little, probably not. That's the gear position indicator and behind that is an O ring and a pin and spring recessed into the gear shifting drum, so don't lose them when you take the position sensor off.

2 is the clutch pushrod and seal, so yes some oil maybe come out of there but the rod goes through the counter shaft in the transmission, so it probably won't pour oil.

3 will definitely have oil coming out, once again it may not pour but it's an oil seal for the shifting shaft. That could be very painful to remove with the shifting shaft in place. The shifting shaft can be withdrawn from the clutch side to make replacing that seal easier. I'd suggest cleaning and doing the others first unless you have a burning desire to remove the clutch cover and clutch.

4 is the stator cover, and yes it will leak oil as it runs in oil under there.

 

[cowboyup3371]

Are these pictures from before you cleaned up this area? If not, clean it up real good and then run it for five miles or so. Then you can see where the leak is coming from.

 

[Guest]

The chutch push rod seal will normally drip right under the shifter lever...right onto the ground. You don't want the flange type...that has to go in from the back. You want the service replacement Suzuki pn 09285-06011 which can go in from the front. You may want to change the shifter seal while you're at it...also very easy to do.

Use a thin drywall screw and pull the seal. Almost as soon as the screw gets a bite it will pull out.

Put the new seal in place and use a piece of pipe with the old seal on the end (to protect the new seal) to drive it home. It is super easy to change.

 

[apopleptic]

Are these pictures from before you cleaned up this area? If not, clean it up real good and then run it for five miles or so. Then you can see where the leak is coming from.

I'm still degreasing. The gunk was more than an inch deep in quite a few spots. actually scrubbing it but hard to get the nooks and crannies. Hopefully all cleaned by tomorrow.

 

[Barneycanoe]

Clutch pushrod problem

Clutch pushrod problem

Ok, 1979 425E. Clutch pushrod is worn where it comes through case, Got a groove round the shaft of probably 1-2mm. I replaced the seal but when you activate the clutch pushrod with the engine running oil comes out at a fair dripping rate.

Bike Bandit does not show the pushrod as being available.

I think my options are these:

1 try JB Weld on the grooved part and then sand round.
2 remove pushrod and get someone to weld metal on and then turn down to proper diameter.

But it looks like I have to take the pushrod out of the right side of the engine. Is that necessary? - I can do it but I hate to muck with the points of a perfectly tuned bike.

Cheers

Dave

 

[apopleptic]

OK, 1979 425E. Clutch push rod is worn where it comes through case, Got a groove round the shaft of probably 1-2mm. I replaced the seal but when you activate the clutch push rod with the engine running oil comes out at a fair dripping rate.

Bike Bandit does not show the push rod as being available.

I think my options are these:

1 try JB Weld on the grooved part and then sand round.
2 remove push rod and get someone to weld metal on and then turn down to proper diameter.

But it looks like I have to take the push rod out of the right side of the engine. Is that necessary? - I can do it but I hate to muck with the points of a perfectly tuned bike.

Cheers

Dave

Wow, this needs it's own thread. An entirely valid question that deserves more attention than it will receive in here.
If you are talking about part 20 below it looks like you would need to remove the right cover since the end of the rod is threaded.
hopefully someone else will have more to chime in, but again I suggest you start a new thread. worst case scenario you get answers in two places you need to read.
BTW, Alpha Sports http://www.alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm says they have this part in stock for 29.50 plus shipping. and through google I was able to find out the part number was superseded by another 23110-44003 which may help you find the part you need.

 

[Guest]

Ok, 1979 425E. Clutch pushrod is worn where it comes through case, Got a groove round the shaft of probably 1-2mm. I replaced the seal but when you activate the clutch pushrod with the engine running oil comes out at a fair dripping rate.

Bike Bandit does not show the pushrod as being available.

I think my options are these:

1 try JB Weld on the grooved part and then sand round.
2 remove pushrod and get someone to weld metal on and then turn down to proper diameter.

But it looks like I have to take the pushrod out of the right side of the engine. Is that necessary? - I can do it but I hate to muck with the points of a perfectly tuned bike.

Cheers

Dave

Here is the parts fiche from the dealer I go to. They have the rod listed as "call for price". They also ship. I hope this helps.

http://www.xroadsmotorsports.com/fi...y=Motorcycles&make=SUZUKI&year=1979&fveh=2091

BTW...I have had nothing but bad luck with Bike Bandit...which is why I use Dennis Kirk and my local dealer first.