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clutch slipping.

  • Thread starter Thread starter shadowfist
  • Start date Start date
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shadowfist

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I was riding my GS750 this morning (first decent day in a month or two) and i noticed that my clutch is slipping a little. it isn't that bad only when I open the throttle just about all the way in 4th or 5th gear. it is also noticable if i drop the clutch while changing gears, it takes about a 1/2 second for it to catch again.

now my questions...
Is this an easy fix? (i doubt it somehow)
is this something that will progress quickly and leave me with a broken clutch? (like should i fix it as soon as possible?)

hmm... i think that's all my questions at the moment...
 
shadowfist said:
I was riding my GS750 this morning (first decent day in a month or two) and i noticed that my clutch is slipping a little. it isn't that bad only when I open the throttle just about all the way in 4th or 5th gear. it is also noticable if i drop the clutch while changing gears, it takes about a 1/2 second for it to catch again.

now my questions...
Is this an easy fix? (i doubt it somehow)
is this something that will progress quickly and leave me with a broken clutch? (like should i fix it as soon as possible?)

hmm... i think that's all my questions at the moment...
Click to expand...

Easy yes, cheap probably.

First check the two cluch adjustments, if either is too tight it will cause slipping.

If that's not it, replace the springs, they have been under tension for thirty years, the are not as strong as they once were. The most expensive part is the gasket, but you probably won't really need one, they usually come off in one piece. . This usually fixes the problem. While you are in there, check out the plates, they can get ruined by a lot of prolonged slipping, they just burn up. Or they could be just worn too thin. Or they could be polished, try roughing them up with sandpaper. If the plates need replaced they are several dollars apiece.

But just replacing the springs will make a huge difference.
 
Last edited:
To add to how simple the job is, park the bike on the side stand. Remove the clutch cable and the cover. No need to drain the oil, parking on the side stand leaves the clutch high and dry. If you are careful with the gasket, you might be able to re-use it, but have a new one handy, just in case. Remove the six bolts that hold the discs together. Remove them along with the washers and springs. Remove the discs, but be sure to note direction and order. Clean, polish, rough up, whatever, to your heart's content, then re-assemble with the new springs. Tighten everything to specs, adjust the clutch cable, go for a celebration ride.

Oh, yeah, don't go for the heavy-duty aftermarket springs. Just stick with stock springs and you will be fine, unless you have a heavily-modded bike.

.
 
Shadow,

Yes, this is a somewhat easy job. Maybe like the next thing to learn after changing the oil and adjusting the clutch cable. No specaial tools required, just regular wrenches and such.
Biggest problem may be getting those screws to break loose on the clutch cover. Ah, might want an hand impact for that.
So if you have basic tools, and want to work on it yourself, this is something to try yourself.

Yes, replace springs.

The manaul states limits for the free lengths of springs, but since you notice it slipping, you know springs are weak. There is also a thickness limit for the clutch discs (am refereing to the discs with the friction material/pads on them), but I have found that even if they are within the stated tolerance that the problem isnt so much that they are wore down but that the materail has hardened over the years and years, so should be replaced too.

Once you replace the springs and the clutch plates, you will realise that it was probably slipping a lot more than you thought. Will allmost be like you have to learn how to use the clutch all over again.

No, its not that your clutch or anything is going to break, it will just slipp more and more.

.
 
All good info!

I will add that if you don't have a new clutch gasket on hand, the old one will shatter and rip.

Murphy's Law, you know. Don't mess with Murphy. :D


You should also get some stainless steel allen head screws to replace the cruddy phillips head originals which WILL be damaged when you remove them.

I'd just throw in six new OEM springs and see where that gets ya. If it still slips, then dig deeper -- it might need new fibers.
 
The only part I would buy is a new clutch cover gasket. Then I would get 4 spark plug washers, from 14 mm plugs, & install the washers BEHIND your existing clutch springs. I'll bet your clutch will stop slipping & you will get another 5-6000 miles out of it. After that, buy all new SUZUKI plates & springs & replace them all at once. Ray.
 
I tried the stacking the washers along with scuffing the steels on top of new OEM springs only to have to go back in at a later date and replace the old, hard fibers.


Roughly 30 years of hot-cold hot-cold does quite a number to fiberous material.

Some have added a few extra riding seasons by simply adding washers and there are those of us weren't so lucky.
 
shadowfist said:
I was riding my GS750 this morning (first decent day in a month or two) and i noticed that my clutch is slipping a little. it isn't that bad only when I open the throttle just about all the way in 4th or 5th gear. it is also noticable if i drop the clutch while changing gears, it takes about a 1/2 second for it to catch again.

now my questions...
Is this an easy fix? (i doubt it somehow)
is this something that will progress quickly and leave me with a broken clutch? (like should i fix it as soon as possible?)

hmm... i think that's all my questions at the moment...
Click to expand...

I totally agree with the others. You have "laxed" clutch springs that lost their "free height". The reason your clutch is slipping in the higher gears is because the higher the gear, the greater the load the drivetrain is placing on the clutches. Throw in some fresh OEM springs (they are cheap) with a new cover gasket, and you will be good to go.

A little trick is to lean the left side your bike at a 45 degree angle and rest the bike against a sturdy wall. This allows you to not have to drain the crankcase oil.
 
Road_Clam said:
A little trick is to lean the left side your bike at a 45 degree angle and rest the bike against a sturdy wall. This allows you to not have to drain the crankcase oil.
Click to expand...

No need for that, at least on this model (early GS750) -- just place the bike on the kickstand. The oil will be well out of the way, I promise.
 
When I did my 850 I replaced all the frictions (totally unnecessary but since I was already there I figured why not) and all the springs. The aftermarket springs I got were considerably stiffer than the stockers. I ended up taking it back apart and putting back three of the stock springs in a triangle so it alternated between stock and aftermarket.
After that the clutch felt perfect and never slipped again.
 
Do NOT buy performance barnett or APE springs, you won't be able to pull the clutch lever in without LH bionic powergrip....

There is NO need for race springs on your everyday street driven motorcycle...
 
on a 1150 do you have to drain the oil to do this same job ? or will it be ok as long as you use the side stand. my golden spectro only has 500 miles on it.:D
thanks
 
After following this tread i have removed my clutch cover, springs, and plates. I am going to measure the plate thickness and spring free length of each.

I will post pics sometime tomorrow of the plates. This is my first time going to these depths of dismantling a clutch so i do not know what the plates should look like.

I can say that the plates were not sticking to one another and came apart very easy. I had already purchased SS allen screws and replaced the old philips screws with help from my hand impact.

I had some clutch slipping in 5th gear at 5-6000 rpm's this summer and this is the reason why I am taking a look inside.

Is there any reason to take the clutch hub off? The nut feels good and tight with the washer folded over the nut on 2 sides. I don't want to take this off just to take it off.

The gear/clutch rod, forgetting what you call this, that works with the clutch cable attachment came out very easy. I just thought that this would be secure better. Is this normal?

Off to take measurements and compare with specs.
 
Road_Clam said:
Do NOT buy performance barnett or APE springs, you won't be able to pull the clutch lever in without LH bionic powergrip....

There is NO need for race springs on your everyday street driven motorcycle...
Click to expand...

+1....Also worth adding, is that your clutch cable will be the next casualty, in short order..... apparently, they don't last too long with HD springs. I'm still running the original OEM cable with stock springs, but will probably change it just to be on the safe side this year.

Tony.
 
One reason a clutch could be slipping is due to using 10-30 wt oil which contains friction modifiers, aka molybdenum disulfide.
The stuff will ruin wet clutches, especially an older one which might be a little glazed or hardened from age/heat.
 
I went with a barrett kevlar clutch for 99 dollars, hooks up great. The springs were a dollar each so replacing them is a good idea. I cut a new gasket from gasket paper I bought at an autoparts store. 6 dollars for enough paper to do three gaskets.
 
shadowfist said:
I was riding my GS750 this morning (first decent day in a month or two) and i noticed that my clutch is slipping a little. it isn't that bad only when I open the throttle just about all the way in 4th or 5th gear. it is also noticable if i drop the clutch while changing gears, it takes about a 1/2 second for it to catch again.
Click to expand...

When my 81-750's engine is not yet up to normal temp the clutch will slip similar to your's under big throttle. It will also slip somewhat when using Synthetic oil as opposed to OTC Suzuki oil. It will also slip if you have too much oil in the case. On center stand full should be just over the low mark when cold. In higher gears you are putting alot of torque and HP load on the clutch and that is the most likely time for it to slip with full HP applied. Do you blip the throttle on downshift to equal rpms and avoid slippage?
Or you can just replace the springs to overcome the minor issue. You can go for years without this making you walk home.
 
i'm trying to post pics of my drive/driven clutch plates but am having issues with photobucket and the virus. Are there any other ways of posting pics? I don't have a URL site.
 
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