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compression numbers and stuff

  • Thread starter Thread starter gearhead13
  • Start date Start date
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gearhead13

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I tested my compression and got 145 - 135 - 120 - 140 not bad could be worse.
then tested them wet and middle two went up to 150. Maybe the inner cyls run hotter and have gummed up my rings?
So could I just pull it apart and clean the rings and pistons with new gaskets?
The bike has 59,000 Km on it, Is it likely that the cyls are worn enough that if i decided to get all new rings it might need to be bored over? What about the plain bearing crank? could it withstand a complete top end rebuild and not blow up?
Maybe a winter project:D and Wiseco kit:D
 
The reason I asked about the bottom end is I plan on bringing it to the drag strip, so it will be ridden hard. Maybe I should just find an 1100 or 1150 and stuff it in and not have to worry about spun bearings.
 
Try riding the hell out of it for a week or two and then rechecking it?
Easier than a rebuild, it usually works.
But a bigger motor usually works, too.
 
THe plain bearings are CRAP, BUT, I would be more concerned with that particular model's penchant for spitting up oil pumps. A few guys on the board here know all too well how **** poor the oiling system in those can be. I have one down on the bench right now whose top end was the victim of a bad pump, or plugged up gallery/transits. I havent cracked it open to find out which yet, but since ive never done the bottom end of a motor, its a likely candidate for me to learn on :)
 
if you decide to rebuild it

if you decide to rebuild it

light cylinder honing and new rings should see you right for a long time
no rebore needed at those compression numbers
 
I would hate to do the bottom end on one of these, after looking at the repair manual and the myriad of bearing colors and codes, holy crap!
 
what

what

gearhead13 said:
I would hate to do the bottom end on one of these, after looking at the repair manual and the myriad of bearing colors and codes, holy crap!
Click to expand...


Why????

What scares you???

There is nothing insides a GS(X) motor that should do that.

Suzuki mad
 
gearhead13 said:
I would hate to do the bottom end on one of these, after looking at the repair manual and the myriad of bearing colors and codes, holy crap!
Click to expand...
From what i have read on here, and from some of the questions ive asked some of those who have experience with it, they say its NOT actually that hard. The top end scared the crap out of me the first time i did it, but now it seems like cake for the most part. Time consuming? Sure. And Id hate to have to do it to my only bike. But Im all for learning how, cos sure as hell no one else around here shop wise will touch em, and my bikes, for the most part, are too pretty to let go cos the bottom end needs work. Im buying Grandpas GK in another month. Its got 130,000 well kept miles on it, but inevitably, it wont live forever. So I wanna know how to fix it when it DOES go.
 
OK. Asuming you have the exhausts and carbs out of the way.

Rocker cover off. 20/24 bolts no problems.

Lock cam chain tensioner.

Camshafts out, 16 bolts. Hold the chain up from falling down the tunnel. remove front cam chain slider.

Cylinder head off, 15 bolts. It may not want to budge so be carefull of hitting the fins with a mallet.

Barrel. Slides off when the seal is broken with the base gasket.

Clutch cover off, strip out the clutch baskets, oil pump.

Take the ignition plate off the crank.

Undo the cam chain tensioner in the upper case.

Flip the engne over, sump off, strainer off.

Undo all the case bolts watching for the three so and so's (one in the scrocket are other two where the oil filter cover goes. The cases should then come apart.

Inside there should be one crank with all the bits attached, two gearbox shafts and one selector shaft. Nothing to worry about.

Suzuki mad
 
Suzuki mad said:
OK. Asuming you have the exhausts and carbs out of the way.

Rocker cover off. 20/24 bolts no problems.

Lock cam chain tensioner.

Camshafts out, 16 bolts. Hold the chain up from falling down the tunnel. remove front cam chain slider.

Cylinder head off, 15 bolts. It may not want to budge so be carefull of hitting the fins with a mallet.

Barrel. Slides off when the seal is broken with the base gasket.

Clutch cover off, strip out the clutch baskets, oil pump.

Take the ignition plate off the crank.

Undo the cam chain tensioner in the upper case.

Flip the engne over, sump off, strainer off.

Undo all the case bolts watching for the three so and so's (one in the scrocket are other two where the oil filter cover goes. The cases should then come apart.

Inside there should be one crank with all the bits attached, two gearbox shafts and one selector shaft. Nothing to worry about.

Suzuki mad
Click to expand...

HAHA that sounds recockulously simple. Have you ever spec-ed and mic-ed everything? And if parts inside are in need of replacement, whats availability like on the average (obviously some models parts will be more available than others) ?
 
taking the engine apart for the FIRST time ever

taking the engine apart for the FIRST time ever

i had NO WORRIES whatsoever ^o^o^o
 
Stripped a GS(X)1100 for my first full case open bike.

Spent over ?1000 on parts, ?250 on gaskets, ?500 alone on cogs and shims inside the gearbox. Swapped it back from 1168 wiseco to standard 1074cc, cylinder head work, new cams, chain, followers, reseated and ground in the valves.......

Not a lot really.

Suzuki mad
 
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Suzuki mad said:
Why????

What scares you???

There is nothing insides a GS(X) motor that should do that.

Suzuki mad
Click to expand...
I have no problem with taking it apart. I know the parts and where they go. I have done many engines, mostly auto engines, 4cyls v8 etc.
I read the manual about the bearing colors and journal designations and it doesnt really explain it too well. The top end is fine, it will be my first dohc engine, itll be kinda cool, looking foward to it.
Maybe if i read it a few more times it will sink in:oops:
 
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Am I reading this right? Did they make the journals different sizes?:confused::mad:
 
Those compression numbers are serviceable, no reason to tear the engine down just yet.

Regarding rebuilding the engine, it's not hard, just requires being detail oriented. I’m not familiar with what Suzuki did in particular but its typical for some manufacturers to associate the bearing journal size with some color code. It’s a fairly simple matter of matching up the color codes on your crank with the required bearing shells required.
 
With those compression #s and the #s coming up wet, I would look into using a bit of Seafoam or the like in the oil and run it for a bit and give it a few oil changes. The rings may be a little gummed up and when clean could bring the #s right back up.
 
Ride the bike. Comp nos are fine. I've had bikes that have run ok with not much more than half your figures.
 
Zook said:
With those compression #s and the #s coming up wet, I would look into using a bit of Seafoam or the like in the oil and run it for a bit and give it a few oil changes. The rings may be a little gummed up and when clean could bring the #s right back up.
Click to expand...
What is seafoam? never heard of it. Where do you buy it?
I just changed the oil to 20w50. Maybe some hard riding free up the rings?:D
 
Servicing the plain bearing cranks is not difficult. All of the new high performance Suzukis have them.
It is all done with number / letter codes and bearing colors.

Jay
 
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