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Confused over Dyna coils and spark plugs

  • Thread starter Thread starter Theo
  • Start date Start date
T

Theo

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Okay, so I just bought some Dyna coils from z1. I got the green 3 ohm factory replacement ones to be exact. I also got these plug wires from z1. So I was doing some trial fitting and that's when I got confused. I thought with dyna coils, you can use normal automotive type plug cables but the spark plugs are anything but normal. It's got a little threaded bit on top of it. So will I have to use plug caps after all? Or do I have to use different plugs? I have some more questions but I'll leave it at that to keep it from getting confusing. Thanks for the help.
-Theo
 
Use those wires and keep that threaded piece on the top of the plug. You have to remove the threaded bit when using the factory plug caps but not with automotive style.
 
If the plugs caps from Dyna don't fit the plugs with the threaded connector you can install the proper piece on to your spark plug. They are just a threaded piece that goes on the plug. If you don't have any a new set of NGK's will.
 
Use those wires and keep that threaded piece on the top of the plug. You have to remove the threaded bit when using the factory plug caps but not with automotive style.

Ok that makes sense. I tried that out and it worked although the connection doensn't seem very tight. Maybe it will be fine.

My other question is about using a resistor in series with the plugs. I was reading the archives and from what I gathered, if you use solid core wires you need to use the caps, and if you use stranded core you don't need them. I have no idea what kind of wires they are. Can anyone else tell from my link above what they are? Thanks for the help so far.
-Theo
 
Normally it's either solid core wire and resistor cap or suppressor wire and regular caps. Since you have solid core wire and regular caps I'm not sure what to suggest. You could always pick up some supressor core wires at an autoparts store and send those others back to Z1. Or maybe try using resistor core plugs? Not sure.
 
Normally it's either solid core wire and resistor cap or suppressor wire and regular caps. Since you have solid core wire and regular caps I'm not sure what to suggest. You could always pick up some supressor core wires at an autoparts store and send those others back to Z1. Or maybe try using resistor core plugs? Not sure.


Ok that's what I was afraid of. I'll give z1 a call. Hopefully they'll take back an opened bag of spark plug wires. Thanks for all of your help.
-Theo
 
Thats why I didnt get the wires from dyna, have to try and track down the little alum pieces to screw onto the plug, that the plugs dont come with. I was able to get universal plug wires, then cut them and used my NGK resistor plug caps. There has to be a resistor in the line, from the plug caps, wires or plugs.
 
Thats why I didnt get the wires from dyna, have to try and track down the little alum pieces to screw onto the plug, that the plugs dont come with. I was able to get universal plug wires, then cut them and used my NGK resistor plug caps. There has to be a resistor in the line, from the plug caps, wires or plugs.

All the dyna wire sets I've bought (both solid core and suppresion wires) have come with the screw-on ends to fit on the threaded plug ends.
 
My other question is about using a resistor in series with the plugs. I was reading the archives and from what I gathered, if you use solid core wires you need to use the caps, and if you use stranded core you don't need them. I have no idea what kind of wires they are. Can anyone else tell from my link above what they are? Thanks for the help so far.
-Theo
"Dyna Ignition Wires - 7mm copper core* (black)"
* wire core- non resistor style plug wires.


put what ever plug boots/ends you have on those wires. resistor/non resistor it won't matter. unless you are listening to A.M. radio, then it will be a tad noisy.
 
All the dyna wire sets I've bought (both solid core and suppresion wires) have come with the screw-on ends to fit on the threaded plug ends.
Really? Somehow I thought they werent:confused:
I was really looking for nice yellow Accel 8mm copper core wires, but nobody around here carries them or had even seen them for years.
 
Thats why I didnt get the wires from dyna, have to try and track down the little alum pieces to screw onto the plug, that the plugs dont come with. I was able to get universal plug wires, then cut them and used my NGK resistor plug caps. There has to be a resistor in the line, from the plug caps, wires or plugs.

Mine came with the aluminum pieces.

"Dyna Ignition Wires - 7mm copper core* (black)"
* wire core- non resistor style plug wires.

Where did you find that footnote or is that your own addition? I have to say that I'm still confused. Nessism is saying that I need suppressor core wire to run with out caps and you are saying that I don't? I like your way more because I don't have to buy and or return anything but I don't want to mess anything up.

put what ever plug boots/ends you have on those wires. resistor/non resistor it won't matter. unless you are listening to A.M. radio, then it will be a tad noisy.
Aw shucks. AM has the best stuff.:rolleyes:

Well thanks for all of the help so far. I appreciate it.
-Theo
 
Where did you find that footnote or is that your own addition? I have to say that I'm still confused. Nessism is saying that I need suppressor core wire to run with out caps and you are saying that I don't? I like your way more because I don't have to buy and or return anything but I don't want to mess anything up.

Aw shucks. AM has the best stuff.:rolleyes:

Well thanks for all of the help so far. I appreciate it.
-Theo
the foot note is my inclusion.

what I am saying is, you can use a stranded core wire like you purchased, without using a resistor style plug end (boot, cap, end, what ever you would like to call it). it may cause electrical interference issue with the igniter, but I have never heard of the radiated EMI from using a combination of non-resistor wires and spark plugs creating an issue and I don't suspect you will ether.

***
and from what I gathered, if you use solid core wires you need to use the caps, and if you use stranded core you don't need them.
The wires you bought are stranded core wires. solid core wire would be to hard to bend :D .
resistor style plug wires are made of fiberglass/kevlar* and carbon/graphite*.

*for the most part they are...


if you are concerned about doing it this way, just go buy a set of resistor plugs (br8es?) and screw them in the plug holes.
 
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the foot note is my inclusion.

what I am saying is, you can use a stranded core wire like you purchased, without using a resistor style plug end (boot, cap, end, what ever you would like to call it). it may cause electrical interference issue with the igniter, but I have never heard of the radiated EMI from using a combination of non-resistor wires and spark plugs creating an issue and I don't suspect you will ether.

***
The wires you bought are stranded core wires. solid core wire would be to hard to bend :D .
resistor style plug wires are made of fiberglass/kevlar* and carbon/graphite*.

*for the most part they are...


if you are concerned about doing it this way, just go buy a set of resistor plugs (br8es?) and screw them in the plug holes.


Awesome. Thanks for all of the info. I'm gonna live life on the wild side and not use any resistor caps as per your suggestion. If it doesn't work out though...you better watch out :twistedevil:. Well once again, thanks for all of the help and replies. Much appreciated.

-Theo
 
I was told that you need a resisitor in one of the three or you can fry your coils.
 
I was told that you need a resisitor in one of the three or you can fry your coils.

Who told you that?

I'm not an electrical expert so I'll defer to those more knowledgeable than me on this one.
 
I have never fried a coil due to non-resistor wires/plugs, however on one of my newer cdi bikes, adding resistive plugs cleared up an idle issue and timing issue the bike had. probably the reason i got the bike so cheap.

I have also never heard of frying a coil from not using resistive plugs or wires, however i have seen loads of issues with tci and cdi ignition systems caused by not using them. I have not seen a blown cdi or tci from not using them though, not to say it couldn't happen.

bottom line is, if resistive cables are called for, use them or resistive plugs. if you have non-resistive cables, grab resistive plugs, they're cheap and provide the same performance... whatever you do, don't use resistive wires and resistive plugs at the same time.

all the resistors do in this application is kill (or reduce) emi in onboard systems. cdi, tci, cell phone, two way radios, am radio, (even some gps units) etc... if you are running mechanical (point ignition), you won't harm anything, if you are running tci or cdi, you may experience some timing issues, if you have converted to fuel injection, or a microsquirt (or comparable) system, you may experience any number of issues.
 
If a system (gps, radio, ect..) is properly designed and takes into account EMI interference, you don't have issues with corrosion in your connections; you shouldn't have issues. the problem with most electronic items today is cost. designing in overkill has a price.

resistor wires and plugs go a long way towards reducing EMI.

where's Jim when you need Him. :(
 
If a system (gps, radio, ect..) is properly designed and takes into account EMI interference, you don't have issues with corrosion in your connections; you shouldn't have issues. the problem with most electronic items today is cost. designing in overkill has a price.

resistor wires and plugs go a long way towards reducing EMI.

where's Jim when you need Him. :(

very true. i would also say size is a limiting factor, i have a garmin gps that works great inside of any of my vehicles, and i have a little usb dongle that needs to be 3 feet or so from my netbook and engine (finally just velcroed it to the ceiling)... major diff between the two, the garmin has an older engine and loads of shielding, the dongle is completely unshielded.

i can't say either way if going resistorless will have any detrimental effect. my vw's always run non-resistive with bosch blue coils, but the 2-meter radio i use in them has a shielded base and has the option to run on a battery pack, so never noticed an issue. from experience, the only problems i have ever noticed are timing/idle related when dealing with electronic ignitions.
 
As you know, 2 Meter radios are FM. the signal produced by the ignition system is AM. so unless a properly designed front end is over loaded on your radios, you shouldn't have an issue.

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