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Cotter pin technique

AX2007 said:
If you don't want the picture to rotate, just turn off the "auto-rotate" feature on the phone. It's in the settings somewhere. Your pictures will come out "right side up".
Click to expand...

Good idea...test #1: (NG, I think)
 
AX2007 said:
If you don't want the picture to rotate, just turn off the "auto-rotate" feature on the phone. It's in the settings somewhere. Your pictures will come out "right side up".
Click to expand...

Test #2: (we'll see)

Success! You, sir, are a genius!

Thanks a lot.
 
tkent02 said:
The cotter pins are steel.
Click to expand...

Yup there are, I use the SS cotter pins. Hitch pins belong on hitches not critical components. And FYI, you only use a cotter pin once. Always use a new one when you take one off.
 
Rob S. said:
I was using my new Sears beam torque wrench, trying to tighten the rear axle nut to 75 foot-pounds (manual says 61.5 - 83). Before I got there, the bike was tipping off the stand. I guess it's tight enough.
Click to expand...

If you look at the center stand carefully there is a hole to stick a #2 Philips screwdriver shaft through to lock the stand. Handy when you are working on it with wheels off or applying mondo torque....
 
daturat100r said:
Outside of the US in the real world ,lol, these are called split pins.A cotter pin is a locating and clamping variation of a bolt like you would find on the kickstart of a preunit bsa or on the cotter cranks of a bicycle
Click to expand...
Ditto.
Damned yankees, and their funny way of describing things.
:D:D:D

Fwiw, I use R-clips on castellated nuts which need to be removed regularly.
 
Last edited:
bobgroger said:
If you look at the center stand carefully there is a hole to stick a #2 Philips screwdriver shaft through to lock the stand. Handy when you are working on it with wheels off or applying mondo torque....
Click to expand...

Rear "paddock" stand - no center stand.
 
bobgroger said:
If you look at the center stand carefully there is a hole to stick a #2 Philips screwdriver shaft through to lock the stand. Handy when you are working on it with wheels off or applying mondo torque....
Click to expand...

I did not know that. Thanks for the tip. You learn something every day.
 
100_0819_zps2778af57.jpg


Lowes

100_0818_zps94675c25.jpg


Nough said
 
Metric cotter pins are sized differently than the more common in the US SAE type. Most of the time you can find an equivalent, but not always. Particularly with the smaller sizes. The proper metric size is between two different SAE sizes.
 
R clips are the way to go. stainless steel, reusable, wont fall out and come in sizes from tiny caliper pins to the biggest axle nuts.
 
Agemax said:
R clips are the way to go. stainless steel, reusable, wont fall out and come in sizes from tiny caliper pins to the biggest axle nuts.
Click to expand...

I have had quite a few fall out, don't use them on critical stuff anymore. Seat hinge maybe, that's about it.
There's only about three sizes of cotter pins used on Suzukis, it's easy to carry a few of each tucked away on the frame someplace.
 
tkent02 said:
I have had quite a few fall out, don't use them on critical stuff anymore. Seat hinge maybe, that's about it.
There's only about three sizes of cotter pins used on Suzukis, it's easy to carry a few of each tucked away on the frame someplace.
Click to expand...

by the nature of their design, they are almost impossible to "fall" out. you probably had the incorrect size fitted.....
 
If it says to replace the used cotter pin with a new cotter then that is how it's done. I've had my share of experience with the R clips popping out at times. You don't use them on critical areas like axle nuts and other components that use cotter pins.
 
tkent02 said:
I have had quite a few fall out, don't use them on critical stuff anymore. Seat hinge maybe, that's about it.
There's only about three sizes of cotter pins used on Suzukis, it's easy to carry a few of each tucked away on the frame someplace.
Click to expand...

I have a extra attached to my keyring.
 
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