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CRAZY voltmeter to ground readings - whatthe?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Speedo
  • Start date Start date
I didn't read much of the replies, only a quick look.
Generally, if the battery loses it's charge quickly, the stator isn't doing its job. Easy check is to see if you get continuity between any of the 3 stator wires. If so, the stator is bad. Every bad stator I've come across failed this simple test.
 
It's over. Problem solved. Thank God.

It's over. Problem solved. Thank God.

Solved. New plug wires and problem is gone.

Even though wires on there passed all resistance tests and POSplayer's "sparks and magic" night test, obviously they were still bad (well, bad in the sense that although bike ran fine, there was serious voltage leaking everywhere).

Why? Who knows and I don't even care anymore. Took me most of the afternoon to put the bike all back together (I took my time and cleaned more things up), but I'm just happy it's finally over. Talk about feeling like an idiot though:eek: I could have thrown the $20 wires on there a month ago an avoided a TON of headache (for me and all of you). Arggh.:mad:

I want to thank all of you who chimed in with advice to help me.

For what it's worth, in case POS and Redman and Steve are curious:

* All tests (except coil resistance) were performed with bike running
* All in garage, both my bike and Shiraz's, no fluorescent lights
* Disconnecting battery positive with bike running kills bike (as with all bike wired for points, whether changed to electronic ignition like mine or not)
* Points replaced long ago by Dyna S (check my signature block Mr CaveHamster)
* Redman- good luck in job search. I'm in the exact same boat. Sucks rocks.
But hey, gives me time to sort out the old bike finally. I eliminated the stator and RR as potential contributers by totally removing from bike and still got crazy fluctuations (earlier in post, sorry....i thought I reiterated that)
* Not the meters (Steve summed it up below...we tested that to death)

I love how the thing fires right up NOW with the coil mod. Test ride tomorrow.
 
ps Keith - stator checked out both for no continuity (shorts) and for even and sufficient voltage between legs....much earlier in thread.

BTW, I retested after putting everything back together, 75v AC on all leg pairs plus or minus 1-3v.

Overall charging system test (Stator Papers Test#1):
13.5v @ 1500rpm /14.5v @ 4000rpm with lights OFF,
12.8 /13.9v with light ON (not great, but at this point, I'll take it).
 
Speedo said:
Solved. New plug wires and problem is gone.

Even though wires on there passed all resistance tests and POSplayer's "sparks and magic" night test, obviously they were still bad (well, bad in the sense that although bike ran fine, there was serious voltage leaking everywhere).

Why? Who knows and I don't even care anymore. Took me most of the afternoon to put the bike all back together (I took my time and cleaned more things up), but I'm just happy it's finally over. Talk about feeling like an idiot though:eek: I could have thrown the $20 wires on there a month ago an avoided a TON of headache (for me and all of you). Arggh.:mad:

I want to thank all of you who chimed in with advice to help me.

For what it's worth, in case POS and Redman and Steve are curious:

* All tests (except coil resistance) were performed with bike running
* All in garage, both my bike and Shiraz's, no fluorescent lights
* Disconnecting battery positive with bike running kills bike (as with all bike wired for points, whether changed to electronic ignition like mine or not)
* Points replaced long ago by Dyna S (check my signature block Mr CaveHamster)
* Redman- good luck in job search. I'm in the exact same boat. Sucks rocks.
But hey, gives me time to sort out the old bike finally. I eliminated the stator and RR as potential contributers by totally removing from bike and still got crazy fluctuations (earlier in post, sorry....i thought I reiterated that)
* Not the meters (Steve summed it up below...we tested that to death)

I love how the thing fires right up NOW with the coil mod. Test ride tomorrow.
Click to expand...

* Disconnecting battery positive with bike running kills bike (as with all bike wired for points, whether changed to electronic ignition like mine or not)
Click to expand...

Strange I thought these things used to run on kickstarters and dead charging systems?

Well Congrats; U R Persistent :p.

Really hard to believe the coil wires were causing the meter to jump, but Bravo for figuring it out. :clap:
 
Last edited:
It's like a good movie that ended. I'm kind a sad not to follow this anymore:rolleyes: Congrats
 
Strange things can happen.

Had a big amp at work today that had a wire that looked good on the ohmmeter, but it was loose inside the jacketing, and we didn't find out about that until someone just happened to pull on the wire and it came apart. Very frustrating.

I'm glad you are sorted now, though!
 
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