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degreed cams now exhaust valve hits

  • Thread starter Thread starter stain
  • Start date Start date
S

stain

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Bike was running, degreed cams, now exhaust valve hits piston? Do these valves run that close to the piston that a few degrees can make them tag the pistons? The head has been cut but it ran 1500miles before I degreed the cams.
 
I disagree in how you degreed your cams and agree you have to degree your cams again. All agree?
 
To a high degree there appears to be a degree of agreement in this thread......

Sorry - you asked a sensible question and some of us couldn't refrain :D. The valves do run close to the pistons but my guess is that you haven't set something up right. Check and double check your starting point - dead easy to mess it so I always double check my double checking.
 
Installed ajustable gears dead center of slots. Set timing marks as--#1 on exhaust gear flush with head at timing mark T1-4. Slots on cams facing each other at TDC. Ran bike. Found true TDC. Remove all valve lash on #1 intake and exhaust valve. Proceeded to measure and adjust cams. Remeasured 8-10 times each side.
What I can't understand is that if I set the gears off a tooth wouldn't my measurements be way off? If the gears were off would there even be enough adjustment in the slots to get correct numbers? It seems that exhust valve is the one touching the piston.
The head is cut 40 thou
 
Skimming the head will alter cam timing and make the cam chain "too long" But doing what you do should fix that. (i presume) Have a look down the LHS for cam timing instructions...

http://www.webcamshafts.com/

The simply things that you miss are the ones that make your brain hurt. Could be worse, you could have just used the starter button to wind it over instead of by hand. Must be something you missed, sorry
 
With the TDC1&4 and the notches facing each other are the valves on #1 all closed?
How many chain links are between #2 and #3 sprocket arrow? Did you count the links above the arrows?
You can install the cam sprockets 180 off. Ask me how I know
How did you find TDC? Was it close to the stock marks?
 
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I just checked true TDC again. True TDC was different than the factory marks by about the width of the mark.
Slots in cams facing inwards, All marks on gears as they should be.
The valves at #1 cylinder (left) are NOT fully closed, the cam is just starting to come on to the shims. They ARE closed on #4 (right)
I degreed the cams from #1 (left) cylinder.
20 pins between marks 2 on the exhaust gear and #3 on intake gear
I see how it can be easy to put the gears on 180 off
 
Got it figured out. Thanks to the few that REALLY tried to help.
The cams WERE degreed correctly and the tool was set correctly.
Thanks Ray
 
stain said:
Got it figured out. Thanks to the few that REALLY tried to help.
The cams WERE degreed correctly and the tool was set correctly.
Thanks Ray
Click to expand...


So you are not going to share what was wrong? :confused:
 
Bike pulls from idle to redline---and beyond if not careful!!!! Idle quality better, low speed driveability better, low end power better--it wants to pull the front wheel in low gears. It still seems to pull hard on top. I didn't get it run all the way out but saw no dips in power or flat spots in the speeds I did run.
The cams were not "un-degreed"
Thanks
 
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actually helping ?

actually helping ?

I read NO ACUTAL information to advise you from. As in starting LC to finishing LC. The crank degree where the interference occured at would have been wise to include in your request for assistance.

you cried wolf and now want to play 20 questions? I don't see no wolf.
 
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