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Degreed Cams

Moarpower

Forum Apprentice
Hey guys.
My 80 gs850g tensioner failed and jumped time. I'll be pulling the head to ensure there is no damage and I'll replace the timing chain and tensioner.
The cam gears are slotted for degreeing so I'll need to do the same to ensure timing is correct. If anyone has done this on an 850g and could share some tips it would be most appreciated.

I have a 90 degree wheel and a dial gauge but the dial gauge is less than 1 inch travel so I may need a new one.
 
I'm a little late and short of experience to help, did you get it back together OK? I'd think the 1" indicator could work
 
Dang, hate that, it seems he got no help back last Nov.. Yes 1" dial indicator is fine but a 90 degree degree wheel?? What is that?? only got 1/4 th of it?... Don't see how that could work.
 
Do you mean to change the lobe spacing?
If not, just use the OEM marks and don't touch the cams. Follow the manual.
"degree ing" refers to the relationship of the lobes of the two cams to each other, NOT the relationship to the crank. you're doing cam TIMING, not degree ing. If the bike was running the way you wanted before it jumped, don't screw with the cam degrees
 
Hi guys. So the cam gears on this engine are slotted and we're at some point the timing was degreed. I'll probably just go back to standard if I can line it up.

As for the 90 degree wheel, I mean it just has 4 90 degree quadrants which I find annoying.
 
Hi guys. So the cam gears on this engine are slotted and we're at some point the timing was degreed. I'll probably just go back to standard if I can line it up.

As for the 90 degree wheel, I mean it just has 4 90 degree quadrants which I find annoying.

As stated, Leave degreed cams be. If it ran good before, it will run the same after assembly. Doing a leakdown test would tell you if there has been any valve train damage .
 
Do you mean to change the lobe spacing?
If not, just use the OEM marks and don't touch the cams. Follow the manual.
"degree ing" refers to the relationship of the lobes of the two cams to each other, NOT the relationship to the crank. you're doing cam TIMING, not degree ing. If the bike was running the way you wanted before it jumped, don't screw with the cam degrees

I'm gonna disagree with you Sir. When degreeing cams on a twin cam engine, you are able to adjust valve timing between the two cams AND the crank shaft. Advancing cam timing relative to the crank, brings power in sooner and setting the timing retarded relative to the crank brings the power on later, making it feel "reveeer "
 
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