Deleting air fittings on GS1100EZ forks

[dweller]

I'm switching to Sonic springs, emulators, deleting anti-dive and air assist. Was figuring on maybe tapping and plugging the air holes in the upper fork tubes and doing away with the threaded fittings. But I'll need some sort of spacer to put around both fork tubes to keep the headlight bracket in the proper location. I searched extensively but could not find any mention of what guys are using for this. I'm thinking a section of a black ABS pipe fitting the appropriate length and diameter. Other ideas? Thanks

 

[bwringer]

I would certainly not tap and plug the hole in the forks; you'd need to somehow get the plug screw flush on the outside (so you can remove and install the forks) and flush on the inside (so the springs don't hang up on the screw). I don't see a good way to do that.

A nice neat fast TIG weld might work for plugging the hole, but welding on fork legs, especially with that thick chrome in the way, does not strike me as a good idea.

I've heard of people using JB Weld to plug these holes. I don't know how successful this has been. You'd need to pay attention to preventing squeeze-out inside.

It might be better to modify the collars to plug them (add a plug, retap, weld closed, whatever), replace the interior o-rings, then put them back into place with the fittings turned out of view.

 

[Steve]

I understand the "no additional air" concept, I also have Sonic springs and emulators, but I don't have an 1100E. As I recall, you have a hole in the side of the fork tube that connects to a link to the other fork, so air pressure is always equal. There is nothing wrong with that concept, certainly nothing that would require plugging the hole. What's wrong with just leaving it the way it is? :-k

.

 

[dweller]

I'd prefer to get rid of the unneeded fittings and tubes, declutter that zone. I know I've read on here of guys successfully plugging these, just couldn't find the posts using the search function. Shouldn't be too hard to measure tube thickness and grind the plugs so they don't intrude into the tube and interfere with spring travel. Outside could be filed flush so they slide through the clamps...

 

[RichDesmond]

...and flush on the inside (so the springs don't hang up on the screw)...

Don't know for sure, but that hole is likely high enough that it's spacer there, not spring.

 

[Rob S.]

I'm planning on putting my EZ back on the road this spring. I broke the plastic tube that equalizes the air between the forks in an accident. I've bought the complete set up to return it to stock. I even have the special air pump to fill it.

I have Racetech .9 straight rate springs installed. I plan on running with 10 lbs of pressure, as recommended by the 1982 issue of Cycle World (even though Suzuki says no more than 7).

I'm not expecting any really noticeable improvements in handling (it's been 2 years), I just figure I spent the money on the parts, why not use them?

Am I wrong? Are there any downsides?

 

[bwringer]

You won't need any air pressure in the forks if you have decent springs in there.

Air pressure was a sad band-aid needed only because the stock springs were so inadequate.

Honestly, you'll probably notice a dramatic difference if you're used to the sagged-out junk stock springs.

 

[bwringer]

Don't know for sure, but that hole is likely high enough that it's spacer there, not spring.

That air hole in the 1100E forks is a little further down. It's actually below the oil level when the forks are collapsed all the way to set oil level. If you're setting oil level with the forks off the bike, you have to cover the hole with a finger while the forks are collapsed.

There's a stain or two from 1100E fork work on my garage floor... I swear that stuff is liquid Houdini. No matter what, it seems to find a way to escape.

 

[RichDesmond]

That air hole in the 1100E forks is a little further down. It's actually below the oil level when the forks are collapsed all the way to set oil level. If you're setting oil level with the forks off the bike, you have to cover the hole with a finger while the forks are collapsed...

First gen Kawasaki Concours is like that, only bike I know of that had the fork oil level spec'd with the tubes extended. Those tubes stuck up about 2" from the top triple though, and the hole was right above the lower one. Do the GS1100 forks stick up above the top triple??

 

[dweller]

First gen Kawasaki Concours is like that, only bike I know of that had the fork oil level spec'd with the tubes extended. Those tubes stuck up about 2" from the top triple though, and the hole was right above the lower one. Do the GS1100 forks stick up above the top triple??

No, top of tube is level with top triple.

 

[Guest]

I used just enough JB's weld to the holes. No squeezing out on the inside and smooth on the outside. No leaks in 5 years. Geez! Has it been 5 years since I did my refurb?

 

[bwringer]

I used just enough JB's weld to the holes. No squeezing out on the inside and smooth on the outside. No leaks in 5 years. Geez! Has it been 5 years since I did my refurb?

I knew I had seen this somewhere before... :biggrin:


5 years is just the blink of an eye around here. I remember eagerly waiting for my 1983 GS850G to turn 25 so it would be a "true" vintage bike.

 

[dweller]

I used just enough JB's weld to the holes. No squeezing out on the inside and smooth on the outside. No leaks in 5 years. Geez! Has it been 5 years since I did my refurb?

Nice, thanks for the response

 

[dweller]

Ok, just to follow up on this. I used an 8-32 NC tap which was perfect for the air holes. Then used 3/16" 8-32 set screws and threaded them in with a coating of JB weld. Made sure I didn't thread them in far enough to enter the inside of the fork tube. Let the JB weld set up and used a fine file on the outside of the set screws to get them flush with the fork tube. Perfect, no way are those going to leak!