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dented carb floats

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jabcb said:
As tkent02 said, a dented float sits lower in the fuel. This causes the fuel level to be higher & the bike to run very rich.

Suzuki issued a two-stroke service bulletin about dented floats when these bikes were in production.
They said that dented floats can result in piston seizures.
Click to expand...

Running rich would cause seizures? That doesn't sound right, but there might be more going on.

I was thinking a lower floating float would cause it to run richer, but if you adjust the float until the fuel level came out right it should work fine.

I'd put the undented one in the middle cylinder to allow easier float adjustments on the dented ones on the bike.
I think you can pull the float bowl with the carbs on the bike.

If it's true that Suzuki is saying dents can cause siezures I wouldn't even go there, just buy undented floats.
 
Thanks tkent02. If I do use these, I had planned on putting the good one in the center so I had access to the outer carbs, just as you suggested.

I guess my problem is that these floats are dented just enough to make me feel 50/50 that it's ok to use them. Yep, they're dented... but not a lot. Just how much would I be off if I use them?...

Knowing how I do things with these older, neglected bikes, I'll probably end up getting new ones. My routine is to double and triple check everything before I start a bike up for the first time. That way, I eliminate any known issues and just focus on the final "fine tuning".

I was hoping someone else had pulled out dents on floats before and I could find some kind of process to fix these.

Thanks again.
 
Not sure about the GT service manuals, but GS manuals have a fuel level specification. This is the important spec, not the float height. Make a tool and measure fuel level and adjust the float height as needed.

Regarding the dents, what about a heat gun on the floats to see if you can get the dents to pop out?
Alternately, you could use something like 5 min epoxy and attach a couple of toothpicks to work as pullers. Just be sure to clean off the epoxy after you are done.
 
Yeah, me too. Maybe a small screw or nail, with the head toward the dent. Wouldn't use epoxy, it's too hard to relese later. Not sure what glue to use that would let it go later.

Might use paint as the glue.

Heat it up a little and pull the screw.

Then use paint remover to release it.
 
I'd like to help - fixing what you have is tricky. I polished the floats inside my smoothbores - so I know what you are dealing with.

the puller with wire and epoxy is a good one I have not tried.

it is pretty tempting to squeeze the brass bubbles - like bubble wrap-

submerged in boiling water will push out dents ,be ready to quick cool

strong vacuum source will pull out a dent -

re-soldiering a leaky one that has fluid inside it is easy-

messed up floats need extra tuning attention -it's possible to get it perfect, but it is always in the back of your mind. -- that float.....
 
Funny that these options have been thrown out there. I've been considering doing the same thing. My first thought was to use the hot glue I have that came with a dent puller kit I bought. But use a screw as the puller with the head against the float like tkent02 said. But I'm afraid the metal might be too soft to pull the glue off cleanly.

I've even considered using chewing gum with a screw and let it sit for a few days. You know, like when you used to find gum stuck under your desk at school that has been there a few days. It gets hard but you can still pull it off.

I'm going to give it some thought before I just buy some new ones. I like a good challenge.

And Nessism, I agree with your thoughts. It is all about proper fuel level. And to make matters even more confusing, the Suzuki carb manual says these floats should be measured by, and I quote .." Tilt the chamber at 10~30 degrees from vertical" when setting the float height. So I want this done correctly. In my bike rehabs, I really find it easier if I can keep things as close to actual stock conditions as possible.

For myself, so any future work can be easily done by just following the manual. As well as for any future owner of the bike, so any work done by them later on leaves no questions in their minds. I know I wouldn't want to open up some carbs and find dented floats and have to go about figuring how to set the proper height.

Thanks for the input everyone and keep them coming.
 
perhaps some super glue on a wire welding rod? and to remove it after pulling twist it.
To be fair that dent doesn't look excessive so make your gauge and reset the height.
 
Thanks, tatu. That's what I'm fighting internally right now. Are the dents deep enough to cause issues. But one float set has both floats dented on one side each so I am more concerned with that one.
 
...from the picture it's hard to tell how bad it is, but it doesn't look bad enough to not just adjust the tab to keep level correct and hope that the buoyancy is still enough to push the needle against the seat versus fuel pressure.
However,
if you can't pull it back out maybe just drill a hole , put a small DRIFT into the hole and PUSH.....or tap gently against a soft wood block...endgrain of wood is best.

Air is a gas and is compressible- "compressed" air is denser and floats "lower" and thereby has less buoyancy. If the float originally had two domed convex surfaces and you have popped them inward,to "concave" you have changed the volume, you have compressed the air, you have reduced the buoyancy.

.....failing other tries,, you could add buoyancy with a light glue-on cap..epoxy should be ok but the addition must float the glue too.
I would consider de-soldering,correcting the "dish?",and resoldering. The rest of the bits could also fall apart unless you are careful and apply heat locally. This would be true resoldering over the hole above too so be careful. Heat sinks can help. I've used pairs of vice grips and forceps as immediate emergency heatsinks. I've resoldered old floats from outboards but they weren't dual like these and if the joiner is soldered too, it makes it tricky.
 
Thanks jabcb for the link. That bulletin explains the damaged float issue completely.

I have heard about bikes being parked outside in freezing weather for a long time and the gas in the bowls freezing and collapsing the floats. But never thought about shooting compressed air into a complete/closed up carb and crushing the floats.

So now, knowing myself, I'm leaning toward getting some new floats. I have a hard time doing something to a bike and having that nagging question in the back of my mind..."I wonder if the damaged floats are causing this issue?"

So thanks to everyone who's added to this thread. It's been fun.
 
De-solder the small hole in the middle of the float and use a bent piece of high strength wire to pull out the dent. Re-solder the hole. You can also de-solder the two halves, push out the dent, re-solder the two halves back together and close up the small hole.

Use a propane torch, flux and rosin core solder. Take pictures of the floats before you do anything to them!

Or, just put them back in the carbs like they are.

They are just three pieces of brass soldered together...
 
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Thanks rustybronco. That is an option I'm considering and all options are on the table.
 
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