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Direct replacement weatherproof fuse block for GS650GL?

  • Thread starter Thread starter WilliamGLX81
  • Start date Start date
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WilliamGLX81

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The fuses in my 81 GS650GL keep corroding. Rather than clean them over and over, I would like to just replace the fuse block and move to nice ATC fuses - and in the process shut out the water and humidity that cause the corrosion.

Does anybody know of a direct replacement that doesn't require jumping through hoops to mount it? I would go with one with a relay, but at this point, I just want to eliminate the imminent problem with the fuses. The Relay can come in the next year or so after I have my degree and a job.
 
Many members have already switched to ATC fusebox- lots of posts. But it ain't going to be plug and play, some rewiring needed.
Corroding fuses???? maybe you got real cheapies, try to find old madeinUSA ones- clean contacts,install and hit them with silicone spray. Do you still have a fusebox cover?
 
Fusebox cover? I wish! Maybe I can pick one up. Just covering them would help a ton.

I saw some boxes that looked pretty fancy for my situation. The wiring doesn't worry me much, but the mounting does. Looks like the way suzuki mounted the box is not that common now.
 
It came with nice snap on cover- any boneyards around you, lots of suzukis shared same fusebox/cover. Ebay has them,maybe a local ebay seller around you. Or just opt for the atc setup now- should be plenty of mounting room.
 
The cover is NLA from OEM suppliers, but "may" be available at boneyards. Those are completely hit-or-miss; if it gets lost the bike will still run so many POs just lose it and keep on going. There will not be a direct aftermarket replacement; you would have to do some wiring. To fit in the same place, an aftermarket would have to have a single row of fuses (most are double) and meet your height requirements. This company fits the width requirements, but I wonder about the height.
 
I wonder if that would plug into his harness or would he have to fabricate something. His original fuses were glass.
 

I had problems with the glass fuse box in the 78 1000

And have a 83 750 box the same as in the eBay link

Fabbed up this plate to have a place to bolt it to

Worked out pretty good.The wires where the exact match colour for colour so it was just a matter of splicing the plug off a 750 harness to the 1000's.
 
Hmm. Mine's mounted under the seat. I figured that was standard, but I'm seeing few and far between that are not mounted by the battery.

Getting some kind of mounting plate would be my concern. Probably wouldn't want to go with wood, but maybe acrylic or some other kind of plastic? ... Actually, I have an old PC case I could cut up to make one.
 
This is why I landed on my eventual choice for getting rid of that worrisome POS once and for all, which is: Get rid of that worrisome POS once and for all.

By that I mean, Removal and No Replacement. No aging connectors to match, no covers, no screws, no brittle, crabby Bakelite housing (or whatever they're made of), nothing. All gone. Not just the fusebox, but the concept of the fusebox as well.

I looked at the absolute basics, which are: I need a few circuits protected by something that's extremely unlikely to ever, ever be the cause of a problem. When I mulled all my options, I chose to purchase a set of Cooper - Bussman ATM fuseholders from Eastern Beaver, along with a set of fuses that I might need. Look here: (They're toward the bottom, just above the fuses).

I ogled the Metri-Pack units for a while and looked over his 'Three Circuit Solution' -- good choices as well -- and decided on the plain-jane inline fuseholders because of their quality and utter simplicity.
Cooper%20Bussman.jpg


Look it over. It's brand new, copper wire & tin contacts, highly water-resistant, with fuses that are available new just about anywhere, and the component count = 1 per circuit. (Add one overall for the Main fuse). There will be plenty of room for them, because there will be no more fusebox. I've already created some weather-resistant labels to ID the little buggers. Solder them in, shrink-wrap, add fuses, label and I'm done -- forever. (For this bike, anyhow).
 
Hey now, robertbarr - THERE is an idea I like. Waterproof as you can get, and cheap and easy. Only downside is not being able to check a fuse without opening the cover.

I'm thinking of something like this with a relay mod, a power distribution bar, and 5 (are all 5 used?) inline ATC fuses, and a similar setup to this top diagram: http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/relay.php (and of course a main fuse on the line to the added relay.)

It would be nice to get something super pretty, but I don't think that's likely to happen at this stage.
 
Last edited:
robertbarr said:
This is why I landed on my eventual choice for getting rid of that worrisome POS once and for all, which is: Get rid of that worrisome POS once and for all.

By that I mean, Removal and No Replacement. No aging connectors to match, no covers, no screws, no brittle, crabby Bakelite housing (or whatever they're made of), nothing. All gone. Not just the fusebox, but the concept of the fusebox as well.

I looked at the absolute basics, which are: I need a few circuits protected by something that's extremely unlikely to ever, ever be the cause of a problem. When I mulled all my options, I chose to purchase a set of Cooper - Bussman ATM fuseholders from Eastern Beaver, along with a set of fuses that I might need. Look here: (They're toward the bottom, just above the fuses).

I ogled the Metri-Pack units for a while and looked over his 'Three Circuit Solution' -- good choices as well -- and decided on the plain-jane inline fuseholders because of their quality and utter simplicity.
Cooper%20Bussman.jpg


Look it over. It's brand new, copper wire & tin contacts, highly water-resistant, with fuses that are available new just about anywhere, and the component count = 1 per circuit. (Add one overall for the Main fuse). There will be plenty of room for them, because there will be no more fusebox. I've already created some weather-resistant labels to ID the little buggers. Solder them in, shrink-wrap, add fuses, label and I'm done -- forever. (For this bike, anyhow).
Click to expand...

Did you use a terminal block or anything else to connect the fuseholders to the main hot? How did you connect them all together?
 
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