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Discussing engine clear coats

rustybronco

rustybronco

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A few clear coats used on aluminum engine pieces have been discussed lately including Glisten PC, Plastikote 229 clear engine enamel ect. I was considering Plastikote's clear until I came across this discussion. http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=33784

It looks like Plastikote may not be the best choice to use as it tends to turn yellow with high heat.

What I did glean out of the discussion linked was this product. http://www.eastwood.com/ew-diamond-clear-gloss-bare-metal-aero-11-oz.html
and what caught my eye were these two comments. Yes I know, everyone has an opinion, but I think I'll give diamond clear a try on my engine covers and see how it holds up.
I've clear coated parts that won't be affected by heat and it's very durable. It goes on kind of milky but dries really clear. The best I've used to date.
Click to expand...
You DO lose some of the "chrome" look you get from polishing the alum, more of a OEM look, as it was coated from the factory,
Click to expand...
 
I made the mistake of clearing the engine on my 77 750 and it turned a yellowish brown. I personally will never clear an engine again. I gotta someday pull the engine and redo the entire thing.
 
Do let us know how that diamond clear works out. Last I heard there wasn't a good, cheap, durable option for the engine cases.
 
Urethane 2x over polished... laquor will come right off when gas spills.
 
I used Glisten PC and it looks fine, but not sure how it's going to hold up long term. Clear powder coat seems like a logical solution which I think would be worth investigating.
 
Nessism said:
Clear powder coat seems like a logical solution which I think would be worth investigating.
Click to expand...
Not that I did have a bit trouble figuring out which clear is best to use on my aluminum covers, now you throw powder coating into the mix. ;)

Thanks Ed, I value your opinion. I'll check into having the engine covers PC'd.
 
I agree with Chuck. There is no clear coat that will last. When someone asks me if they should clear coat the parts that I polish for them, I tell them that it would be a mistake, no matter what is used.
 
All I'm looking to replicate is the factory finish and durability as much as I can. The factory finish lasts for quite a few years, I would think I should be able to get somewhat close to the same with what's on the market now.
 
I've been restoring an old Enduro.
I took the marked up covers and brake hubs and gave them to a shop that specializes in Aluminum Wheels (straightening/trueing, painting, clear-coating).
They glass bead the covers and give'em a tough clear coat.
Don't know what they use for Clear Coat, but I think they cook it on after,,.. tough stuff.:-s
Problem is, no two covers/parts seem to be made of the same aluminum,,.. when done, not all pieces have the same hue of silver,,.. but it still looks good.:)
 
rustybronco said:
Not that I did have a bit trouble figuring out which clear is best to use on my aluminum covers, now you throw powder coating into the mix. ;)
Click to expand...

Dale,
Talk to Psyguy, I think he did powder coating and had issues with it later though, if I recall correctly. There were a few thoughts running around at the time that the polishing or corrosion left in the metal may be the culprit and new "virgin" metal allowed for a more lasting "etch" or whatever it is called.
 
Andre, I think the best way to prepare them, is to use a good wax and grease remover first, then wet sand with 600~800(??) grit before applying any type of surface coating; regardless of what materials are used.

I'll check with Ivor first and decide weather or not to PC them.
 
rustybronco said:
Andre, I think the best way to prepare them, is to use a good wax and grease remover first, then wet sand with 600~800(??)
Click to expand...

That may help, as my thoughts were that it may be related to the microscopic "craters" in the surface filled with corrosion or whatever. Someone with metallurgic background may be able to give more info on this. I think Ivor mentioned peeling after a while.

Watched a program on TV where they magnified a clean murder weapon and showed blood trapped in the microscopic "craters" after noticing flies sitting on it or something like that.

If someone can locate or find the right stuff it would probably be you anyway!;)
 
Dale get a can of the SP 127 and do a test piece of aluminum scrap and do the cure process like i described earlier. Then youll see what the jugs and cases are gonna look like, I think youll find its so close that it isnt funny. As for the fork lowers and covers..get them the way you want them and then seal them with WIZARDS POWER SEAL. They will last a good year or more before you just have to do a freshening rub down with the sealer again. Youre not going for high polish so this will be very good for your covers. Least thats my opinion from my experience and mistakes.
 
POR-15 sells a metal prep spray (AP120) that cleans and etches the metal, to promote adhesion of the clear on aluminum. You have to be careful with this stuff as it really bites into the aluminum on the engine cases (I recommend 1/2 the specified dwell time listed on the package). Regardless of what kind of finish is applied I'd use a product like this to assure the paint sticks.
 
chuck hahn said:
Dale get a can of the SP 127 and do a test piece of aluminum scrap and do the cure process like i described earlier. Then youll see what the jugs and cases are gonna look like, I think youll find its so close that it isnt funny. As for the fork lowers and covers..get them the way you want them and then seal them with WIZARDS POWER SEAL. They will last a good year or more before you just have to do a freshening rub down with the sealer again. Youre not going for high polish so this will be very good for your covers. Least thats my opinion from my experience and mistakes.
Click to expand...
Chuck, I've already decided to use SP127 on the engine cases so there's no need to do a test run for me.

As far as the fork lowers, they came cleared from the factory. Clear will be going back on them after I get them stripped down and sanded.

Ed, I don't think it will matter much if I etch or sand the engine covers before clear coat. Paint 'should' adhere well to them either way. Just my opinion of course...
 
Beware the duplicolor clear
its crap

better to polish the engine cases by hand then to waste time and effort using it.
 
Finally got back to work restoring the 74 DT360. Here are some pics of the Glass Bead and Clear Coats. Done by a Aluminum Wheel Shop.
BrakeBlast.jpg

SprocketCoverOut.jpg

SprocketCoverIn.jpg

They have a Candy Apple Luster depth to them.
 
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