• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

DIY Drilling Rear Rotor

  • Thread starter Thread starter one_civic
  • Start date Start date
I have never seen a GS that needed more rear braking, except for one with a brake problem.
Nodody said it would add braking force.

They all need more front brake, the older ones need it more than the later ones
Cool.

,
but every one I have ever ridden had more than enough rear braking to lock the rear wheel effortlessly.
How many is that, exactly? All of them? Yes they will lock the rear up. Nobody said they wouldn't.

They were designed for the tires of the late 70s and early 80s, tires in that day only had so much traction, only so much weight could transfer to the front tire.
Cool.

Now with better tires more weight shifts, even less rear braking is needed.
Oh really? Well thats contradictory. With better tires, more braking will also be available to the rear without it locking up. Some riders DO use their rear brake more than others, and to them, wasting that extra braking traction would be silly.

It is so easy to double or triple the braking ability on any GS by improving the front brakes, which will actually do something to improve the ability to stop.
Well, i'm thinking since he doubled the amount of brakes and discs on the front he's off to a great start.

Drill the rear? I guess if you think it looks cool.
Looks cool

reduces brake fade

saves weight

All facts.

What are manufacturers using these days, solid rotors on the rear? Geez i'll have to search google to really know the answer but golly i think most of them are drilled.

If they had rear braking all figured out in the 70's, why the heck have they changed it? Stupid azz manufacturers anyway.
 
I'm doing my 1000 this winter with stock parts to keep it close to stock.
Blasphemy. You must modernize!! But only on the front!! They said so!!

:D

I think what he's doing is having fun upgrading his motorcycle. I thought that's what we were all doing here.


but they have to match the front for the "Bling" factor, lol


Personally if I had converted to the slotted fronts, I would simply source the matching slotted rear. They are readily available.


You don't see me pushing him to do it my way do you. Just offering tips on the question he asked, because I have actually done what he is doing.
 
Last edited:
Ahh I see the 7 year olds have arrived. Boy, this site really has some classy members.
 
He is attempting to get somebody twisted up, just wanted to return the favor.

His reaction to exactly what you quoted is going to be entertaining for me as well. The rest will likely be ignored but the response to any will be interesting and will tell me even more about him.

My positive contribution here is complete. Happy drilling.

Not at all. You have been handing out some dubious information in several threads. The rear brake provides approximately 30 percent of a motorcycle's stopping power. Overuse of the rear brake implies sloppy technique. We can bench race all day, but your suggestion that it is an important upgrade to crossdrill rear rotors is simply spurious.

Keith Code, in A Twist of the Wrist 2, says this about using the rear brake, and I daresay he can outride us both:

"Its just a waste of time; you spend too much effort getting a little braking from the rear. I don't even put my foot on it except coming into the garage"

 
Not at all. You have been handing out some dubious information in several threads. The rear brake provides approximately 30 percent of a motorcycle's stopping power. Overuse of the rear brake implies sloppy technique. We can bench race all day, but your suggestion that it is an important upgrade to crossdrill rear rotors is simply spurious.

Keith Code, in A Twist of the Wrist 2, says this about using the rear brake, and I daresay he can outride us both:

"Its just a waste of time; you spend too much effort getting a little braking from the rear. I don't even put my foot on it except coming into the garage"

I NEVER said it was an important upgrade. You, along with others here, are putting words into my mouth so you can argue against things I never said to appear smarter than I am.

There are many riding techniques. Some are forced, some are learned, some are better than others.

You are suggesting against something that if done correctly has no downside. What is your motivation? Surely you are not here following me around because of things i have said that you disagree with, because that would be really. really sad. Although your previous post would suggest that does have something to do with it.

Sorry, i'll trust my own first hand experience over the opinion of somebody else any damn day of the week bud.
 
Last edited:
I NEVER said it was an important upgrade. You, along with others here, are putting words into my mouth so you can argue against things I never said to appear smarter than I am.

There are many riding techniques. Some are forced, some are learned, some are better than others.

You are suggesting against something that if done correctly has no downside. What is your motivation?

Keeping someone from wasting time on a useless mod.
 
Keeping someone from wasting time on a useless mod.
Your OPINION that this mod is useless is 100% incorrect.

Drilled rotors keep the pads clean and reduce brake fade. Call my sponsor EBC and ask them.

Lighter parts help motorcycles perform better.

Again, you are arguing against something that has positive effects but no negative effects.
 
Of course EBC is your sponsor. That's why you drill your own rotors.

Hey, do you happen to know TexasGS?
 
Your implication that I am a liar is enough for me to see that your insecurity cannot be reasoned with.

Do you think ebc wants to drill my old stock rotor?

Do you have a slight f'n clue how product sponshorships work?
 
Last edited:
Blasphemy. You must modernize!! But only on the front!! They said so!!

:D

Actually if I wasn't trying keep the stock appreance I'd be going with the Salty Monk upgrade plus the fact I've got most of the parts on the shelf. Far less lever pressure required, better feel and modulation are definitely benefits of the mod. On modern bikes with good rubber and proper suspension setup (ie: no chattering or bottoming) you can have 100% of braking power on the front wheel. Doesn?t give the rear much to do except get you in trouble during aggressive braking. Not sure on these older bikes but 85% front and 15% rear is probably not unreasonable under maximum braking with a basic well setup bike with modern tires.
 
They pay a bunch of jackasses to lie about their products?
Who does? Where did anyone say they got paid? Who the fck are you to call anyone you don't know a liar? What is it specifically that you think I'm lying about? Because you are not talented or savvy enough to gain sponsorships, nobody is. Do I have that about right?
 
Last edited:
I'm putting on chest waders. It's getting mighty deep here!

SCUBA gear on standby...
 
3008797.jpg


WOW,

First of all I received the front rotors, calipers and brackets for free, All I've bought so far were a pair of front NOS ferodo pads for $15 can each, the rebuild kits from suzuki which include the pistons and a right lower fork leg. So for less than $120 canadian, why Not?

What I meant to imply with the heavy rear braking is that Is the only brake switch which works on my bike, so I am always using them.

I am on a budget and yes I know of the Salty_Monk brake upgrade but like I said earlier, free parts, why not use them. If I wanted modern handling and braking I would have bought a new modern bike.

I've read and researched enough, just wanted some opinions from the forum for patterns and some advice which I have kindly received from Dohc who has been the only member here so far to offer his experience from drilling his own rear rotor.
 
Did you consider going with a slotted GS rear rotor? That will really get the matched look you want.
 
Who does? Where did anyone say they got paid? Who the fck are you to call anyone you don't know a liar? What is it specifically that you think I'm lying about? Because you are not talented or savvy enough to gain sponsorships, nobody is. Do I have that about right?

I never called anyone a liar. And yes I would call someone I don't know a liar if they are lying.
 
Don't know for certain if it's a direct swap, plus I have lots of time on my hands if it doesn't
 
Back
Top