Mine is bone stock and may suffer from this a little but it still pulls like a tractor with no hesitation. No down shifting required. 3rd gear from a dead stop only requires more throttle.
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Mine is bone stock and may suffer from this a little but it still pulls like a tractor with no hesitation. No down shifting required. 3rd gear from a dead stop only requires more throttle.
Your o2 sensor is only checking it with no load. If your willing to spring for a new set of carbs which it does not need.
1) check most logical suggestions list here
2) take it to a GOOD dyno man. It is the ONLY way it run as good as it will ever get. Seat of the pants, I hear this, runs poor because of oxy fuel. All guess work.
3) If you have that much time, effort and go fast goodies into a motor, show it a little love andgive it a some dyno time. You will be amazed at how it runs. Everyone of my bikes have been run on the dyno. On my Triumph Sprint my mileage went from 36mpg to 43mpg and runs absolutely flawless. This was on a totally stock bike My Gs1100 with every suggestion from people here, GSXR1100 carbs from a "GS carb guru" ran like sheet. Bring it to the dyno guru. Runs like a fuel injected bike. Flawless every throttle opening, slow speed (which is the hardest). I can roll the throttle from 1800rpm no funny noises, lurching. Better than new. Just my 2 cents worth.
1) check most logical suggestions list here
2) take it to a GOOD dyno man. It is the ONLY way it run as good as it will ever get. Seat of the pants, I hear this, runs poor because of oxy fuel. All guess work.
3) If you have that much time, effort and go fast goodies into a motor, show it a little love andgive it a some dyno time. You will be amazed at how it runs. Everyone of my bikes have been run on the dyno. On my Triumph Sprint my mileage went from 36mpg to 43mpg and runs absolutely flawless. This was on a totally stock bike My Gs1100 with every suggestion from people here, GSXR1100 carbs from a "GS carb guru" ran like sheet. Bring it to the dyno guru. Runs like a fuel injected bike. Flawless every throttle opening, slow speed (which is the hardest). I can roll the throttle from 1800rpm no funny noises, lurching. Better than new. Just my 2 cents worth.
This is probably very true. I think I got close only because I finally figured out that I needed to be able to measure AFR under a relatively constant load. I found a long hill within relatively short riding distance. There are not too many straight 6% grades that go for 1.5 miles with few Leos.
With a tuned 1100 accelerating on flat ground it goes so fast that your really can't tune anything even with a WB02. Plug chops are a joke. You need a quasi steady state condition where the floats and flow has stabilized to get a true AFR reading. On the dyno although it is an increasing speed it is accelerating slow enough to get a good reading on AFR without all of the dynamics.
And I did realize an surprisingly improved front wheel lift after getting the AFR better than what it has ever felt like before that.
And mine...
J
jprice90
Guest
Not trying to hijack, but I just need to chime in. I too have the "ratatata blahh blahh blah". More of a hesitation or stumble in the low range, 2000-1200 about from what I noticed with my 850. I was always thinking a sync, but I had a shop "do it", but to no change and it seemed it was running richer than when I had took it in.
Have you gotten this sorted yet?
Have you gotten this sorted yet?
J
jprice90
Guest
I know this would make #3 real rich, now would it possibly make #4 also?
having an issue with 3 and 4, tuned the air mixture screws to lean it a bit just to see if the plug colors would change and nothing, 1 and half more turns in and they would've been bottomed out. Carbs rebuilt from Steve last summer
Steve
GS Whisperer
I know NOTHING about these carbs, but I get the impression that they operate somewhat similar to the stock VM carbs. Yes, I can see if the cap is off and the slide is loose, there might be a sizeable leak, but why can't you do your carb sync with the caps ON? Check the gauges, note what needs to change and how much. Take the caps off, note the new readings (which might be a bit different, make the adjustments that you noted previously. Put the caps back on, your sync might have improved. Yeah, it's a lot more work, but if it helps get the bike run better, it HAS to be worth it.
This comment is in response to a question about a vacuum petcock. Just to make sure you know, but the petcock on your bike is connected to carb # TWO, not three. The carbs (and the cylinders, spark plugs, etc.) are numbered from LEFT to RIGHT, as you are sitting on the bike. #1 is under your clutch hand, #4 is under your throttle hand.
If your mixture screws are at 1.5 turns out, you might be running too lean at low throttle. Back when these bikes were new, they might have had that setting, but the carbs were set lean for EPA regulation, the carb has changed a bit over the years and the gasoline has changed a LOT over the years, all of which require a bit more opening on the pilot jets. Most of my bikes are in the 2.25-2.75 range and run quite nicely.
.
M
mac1170
Guest
I would also check that your pilot jet, has the crossdrilled holes, used on slide mikuni's, and not the cv carb style, which has only the jet diameter hole, could be leaning out, at low constant throttle, all the best.
P
Paul.S
Guest
Well it has been a while since I have posted here but I finally saved up the money and ordered a set of Mikuni RS36 flat slide carbs for it. I will let yall know if they fix the problem. As far as the guys who say I should dyno tune it, I have ran it on the dyno and it made 122whp but the a/f ratio was off alot. Since then I tuned it myself with the oxygen sensor under load going down the road and it made no difference. So hopefully these new carbs will do the trick!
P
Paul.S
Guest
Well the new carbs did not make any difference at all. I sure wish I could find out what it is.
P
Paul.S
Guest
I think I am going to try another brand of spark plug gapped at 40 thousandths like Dyna recommends. Suzuki want 28. I am currently running NGK Iridium plugs. Because I basically have a steady rythymic misfire when cruising at lower speeds. And everything on the ignition is brand new Dyna stuff. And the problem was also there with the old ignition system too.
P
Paul.S
Guest
Update: new plugs did not help at all. Now, I am thinking it has to do with not enough exhaust backpressure. One of my freinds rode my bike and said it runs perfect but he was flooring it everywhere lol. Anither friend rode my bike and says his gsxr-1000 does the same thing but worse without the baffle in muffler. If you stick your hand over the tail pipe of my bike it will actually almost suck your hand in as the valve overlap pulls in some exhaust gas. My dad has the same bike with same brand Kerker exhaust but his muffler has a much smaller outlet due to a bigger baffle inside the pipe so I am going to swap mufflers to see if it makes any difference.
R
radbassist
Guest
I'm wondering if you need the "KISS" system at this point. Sometimes you need to slow down and start thinking the obvious. My friends bike had a rattle at certain RPM's and thought it was a connecting rod knocking or something in the crankcase......Turns out the rubber cushion fell off his kickstand and was rattling against his frame. My bike rattles a bit too but I fixed that with a carb sync. The noise was coming from the clutch basket and my crankshaft was SO out of wack due to the bad sync I have(had), was causing my stuff to rattle in the clutch basket.
When U hear the rattle, may want to slip the clutch a little and see what happens. Could be a vibration from something at a certain RPM that gets magnified at a certain "frequency" because of something being out of balance.
But I would start with the KISS system and look for the obvious - I overlook it ALL the time then I kick myself.
Heck, it could be your pipe hitting your frame at a certain RPM ! KISS man......KISS.
When U hear the rattle, may want to slip the clutch a little and see what happens. Could be a vibration from something at a certain RPM that gets magnified at a certain "frequency" because of something being out of balance.
But I would start with the KISS system and look for the obvious - I overlook it ALL the time then I kick myself.
Heck, it could be your pipe hitting your frame at a certain RPM ! KISS man......KISS.
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Paul.S
Guest
Update: I found the problem. I was not propery syncing the carbs. They are Mikuni VM33 smoothbores. Sudco just says to sync with the drill bit method. Well, that only gets you somewhat close as I have found out. I then synced the carbs with an Emgo brand sync tool with the 4 individual needle gauges. Still, did not help at all. The gauges showed a perfect reading. I then bought the Morgan Carbtune Pro 4. Best decision ever! I hooked them up and found out I was 4cm of mercury off from high to low. I then synced them again with the Carbtune Pro 4 and now she runs perfectly smooth! The Carbtune has 4 mechanical manometers that move stainless rods inside of glass tubes. It never had to be re-calibrated and you can store it however you want as there is no liquid to spill out. And yes, everytime I synced the carbs with both tools I allways had the carb hats on to prevent any vacuum leaks around the slides. Thought yall could use that info.
I'm glad it is sorted, but no reason to believe the pressure gauages could not have done the same job if properly calibrated.
BTW along with carb sync, balanced head porting helps to improve the moothness of the engine
P
Paul.S
Guest
Correct I should have put them all on a hand vacuum pump to about 10" and set them all the same and it would have been better than just adjusting the needles to 0 like I did with no vacuum hooked up. But even then, they would allways return to a slightly different spot on the gauges probably since they only cost about $60.
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