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Do they make some type of block-off plates for anti-dive GS750ES ?

Bob,What do you use to seal the plate ? Do you use the same factory o-rings ?
LOL...:rolleyes:

I don't use a plate. I use the original anti-dive units. They use the factory O-rings. They let the oil move. I just don't use the lines. I plug the holes with $1.00 body plugs from Ace Hardware, and a spritz of silver paint. Done.

Reference posts #4, #7, and #16

Now call me crazy, but I would put that $125 towards all the parts you will need to actually get the bike on the road.
After I did that, I might think about fancy do-dads...
 
Yeah don't buy aftermarket plates, absolutely lowest return on your time and dollar.

Send a PM to Dorkburger if I recall correctly he disabled his units by gutting them.

I took a more expensive option and installed Racetech emulators and springs which vastly improved the suspension and simultaneously eliminated the anti-dive.
 
LOL...:rolleyes:

I don't use a plate. I use the original anti-dive units. They use the factory O-rings. They let the oil move. I just don't use the lines. I plug the holes with $1.00 body plugs from Ace Hardware, and a spritz of silver paint. Done.

Reference posts #4, #7, and #16

Now call me crazy, but I would put that $125 towards all the parts you will need to actually get the bike on the road.
After I did that, I might think about fancy do-dads...


Yes,I see it will be $ better spent to fabricate my own plates ;)
 
Yeah don't buy aftermarket plates, absolutely lowest return on your time and dollar.

Send a PM to Dorkburger if I recall correctly he disabled his units by gutting them.

I took a more expensive option and installed Racetech emulators and springs which vastly improved the suspension and simultaneously eliminated the anti-dive.


I did Race-Tech single-rate fork springs with emulators and Race-Tech teflon bushings before on an 86' VFR750F and it was a huge difference.
 
I did Race-Tech single-rate fork springs with emulators and Race-Tech teflon bushings before on an 86' VFR750F and it was a huge difference.
The mechanic who looks after the critical maintenance for me says I wouldn't get anything better unless I went with inverted forks. He's got impressive credentials so I accept his judgment.
 
Ed/Nessism,Did you cut that channel in the plates you fabricated to the width/size of the ports that match the original holes in the anti-dive units ?
How deep are they ?
 
The mechanic who looks after the critical maintenance for me says I wouldn't get anything better unless I went with inverted forks. He's got impressive credentials so I accept his judgment.

There is nothing magic about inverted forks and large diameter conventional forks with a brace are often significantly more rigid than inverted forks. The magic is in the cartridge damping system, which is a huge improvement over the original damper rods. There are people that will retrofit cartridge damping into your OEM forks or you can upgrade to more modern forks that have cartridge damping if you really want to get there with your suspension performance.

FWIW, I went with straight rate Sonic springs and cartridge emulators on my 1100E. It offers about 80-85% of the performance of cartridge damping while maintaining the OEM look and components.


Mark
 
I made my own. Aluminum plate stock, a drill press, hack saw, and grinder. Key step is to grind a groove connecting the ports so fluid can easily flow between the two fork ports.

Double thumbs up. That is what I did. Almost zero cost. Race-tech also recommends removal of anti-dive unit.
 
Ed/Nessism,Did you cut that channel in the plates you fabricated to the width/size of the ports that match the original holes in the anti-dive units ?
How deep are they ?

Not Ed, but Chris. I cut the channel in the fork leg with a 1/4 oval carbide burr, about 5 mm deep if I am remembering correctly. The plates are just 1/4 thick flat with gasket paper . You are just connecting the two holes together
 
Not Ed, but Chris. I cut the channel in the fork leg with a 1/4 oval carbide burr, about 5 mm deep if I am remembering correctly. The plates are just 1/4 thick flat with gasket paper . You are just connecting the two holes together


I appreciate that Chris
 
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