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Dual Disc Spoke Wheel Conversion

  • Thread starter Thread starter gmoore
  • Start date Start date
G

gmoore

Guest
anyone with any experience with doing a dual front disc conversion on wire spoke wheels? i have a 1979 gs 750.

i have the wheels all mounted up on the forks and it seems that the wheel is a little closer to the left fork(actually the true right side) and the disc is a little closer.

it also seems to be a little out of alignment with the triple tree and bars.

i did a total fork rebuild with new seals because one was longer than the other but i have solved the length issue yet the alignment thing still remains.

i was thinking maybe it was an axle issue but that seems perfectly fine ans there are no issues with that.

i know i have all of the spacers in there(at least all of the ones that are supposed to be the, not sure if there is something extra i need for the conversion).

i haven't put the brakes on yet because i have to rebuild the calipers and master cylinder but i can only imagine this will be an issue since it's quite noticeable that they are snugged over to the left.

i'll try to get some pictures up so it will be easier to see what i'm talking about.

thank.
 
You need forks from a dual disk bike You can not use the original
 
i am using forks from a dual disk bike. the original bike came with mags and dual disc.

here is some pics, i feel like i'm missing something super simple and i'm almost 100% positive it's not the forks because i've rebuilt them entirely and replaced any worn parts with others that were not worn i.e. new right fork and rebuilt the left(speedo side) and they are exactly alike now so the proble resides somewhere else i feel like.

here is head on
IMAG0051.jpg


close up non speedo side
IMAG0058.jpg


close up speedo side
IMAG0059.jpg


disc non speedo side
IMAG0057.jpg


disc speedo side
IMAG0055.jpg


overhead view
IMAG0068.jpg


overhead view 2
IMAG0069.jpg


let me know if you'd like to see any other pics or if you have a hunch.

thanks
 
I see the bushing on your right side is sticking out. Had the same problem on my 83 750e. After spending days looking it turned out the fork brace was sucking the forks together. My solution was to slack the fork brace bolts right off, then line up everything down below, and tighten there, then tighten the fork brace last.
 
which right side bushing? speedo or non?

i'll go and try that and see if it helps, thanks.
 
gmoore said:
... it seems that the wheel is a little closer to the left fork(actually the true right side) ...
Click to expand...

gmoore said:
which right side bushing? speedo or non? ...
Click to expand...
Stick around a while, you will learn that ALL references to front/back, left/right, up/down are made as you are sitting on the bike.

Just because you are in front of the bike, looking back, does not mean that the speedo drive is on the 'right' side, it's still on the LEFT SIDE.

By the way, same thing for cylinder numbering, they are numbered left to right, meaning that #1 is under your clutch hand and #4 is under your throttle hand.

.
 
haha, ok. oh, and no i did not use the donor bikes triple tree.

i went out and loosened everything, triple tree lock bolt & pinch bolt, all 4 fork pinch bolts, fender bolts axle bolt & the bottom fork bolt studs and started over starting with the axle.

i set the bike down and let it set naturally and then raised it back up made sure nothing was weird and then tightened everything up with the fender being last and it ended up just about where it was.

so then i did the same thing but after loosening i put the handles bars where i wanted them to be by turning them a little bit and proceeded to tighten everything up. this seemed to help and it's ALMOST there but it still wants to turn to the right a hair.

honestly i'm starting to think this is how it was when the PO was riding it and he didn't notice and maybe i'm being a obsessive about it?
 
When I said slack off the fender bolts I meant so loose that the fender brace rattles around. I left my fender off for repainting and the thickness off the fender was what made the difference.
 
bccap said:
When I said slack off the fender bolts I meant so loose that the fender brace rattles around. I left my fender off for repainting and the thickness off the fender was what made the difference.
Click to expand...


yeah, that's what did. the fender was as loose as could be w/o falling off. i actually still haven't tightened them since they are actually pushing out on the forks rather than pulling them in.
 
Okay as I see it the bushing on the right side is not flush with the axle nut washer, Is that correct ?
 
bccap said:
Okay as I see it the bushing on the right side is not flush with the axle nut washer, Is that correct ?
Click to expand...


yes, that is correct. i noticed that after i went back out and loosened everything so i found a washer that would fit over the axle but not hit the fork to take up the space because when i loosened the bottom of the forks the slipped over a bit.

i think this fixed the unequal distance between the rotors and the forks but did not fix the "alignment" issue.

i just went out and looked at it again and it is definitely better than it was but it is still not 100% there. however it is close enough to where i wonder if i'm seeing things.

it is a bit better though.
 
Okay I don't quite understand the alignment issue ? But I don't think you should add a washer that is not in the parts fiche. With everything slack give both forks a pull from side to side, then get on the bike and push the forks down and up a few times. Once everything is aligned, tighten up the fork caps then the axle nut, and finally the fender brace bolts. Spin the wheel and if everything is free,you should be good to go. What do you mean by alignment ?
 
bccap said:
Okay I don't quite understand the alignment issue ? But I don't think you should add a washer that is not in the parts fiche. With everything slack give both forks a pull from side to side, then get on the bike and push the forks down and up a few times. Once everything is aligned, tighten up the fork caps then the axle nut, and finally the fender brace bolts. Spin the wheel and if everything is free,you should be good to go. What do you mean by alignment ?
Click to expand...


as far as "alignment" i mean, when the bars a perfectly straight the front wheel is pointed to the right.

that is pretty much what i did and everything spins great and looks great, it's the fact that the wheel looks to be out of alignment with the handle bars that concerns me.

it does look to be a little better now however.

as far as the extra washer i added is concerned it seemed like what needed to happen since the spacer was actually recessed into the fork a little and the washer compensates for that. also the problem is that there is no fiche for a dual disc spoke wheel setup and where the parts theoretically are all interchangeable, i'm geussing that there is some extra space for some reason? idk, it seems to work, i guess i'll see if messes something up space wise when i mount the front brakes.

BTW, thank you for the help, i really appreciate it.
 
Oh, I get get what you mean. Right, I guess it all depends on the brake lineup.
 
The GS 750 wire wheels are exactly the same from a dimension standpoint as the GS 1000 EC mag wheels.
The fact that the front wheel is not pointing straight means that eitheir the triple tees are bent or the fork tubes are bent.
This would also explain why the wheel appears closer to one side...
Check the tubes first by rotating them 360? while holding the bottom part fixed.
If these are OK place a piece of flat glass on the tubes as they protude from the lower triple tee.
If the piece of glass rocks by more than 0.5 mm the tees are bent:mad:
 
Just try popping the wheel between your legs and twisting the handlebars straight like you would on a pushbike.
 
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