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Dyna DS3-3C upgrade

  • Thread starter Thread starter VABushPig
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VABushPig

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I will be changing over to a Dyna S ignition on my 450 soon. I received an email from Dynatek Technical Support telling me I will need to fabricate a spacer in order to get this to work with my bike. Here is the message:

"Thank you for your interest in Dynatek performance electronics. Technically, we do not offer an ignition kit for this application. However, for your GS450 engine, you can easily adapt and install our DS3-3C ignition kit, designed for the GS400. This kit includes our Dyna-S ignition system along with a pair of high output ignition coils which must be installed with the Dyna-S.
To do the installation, you will need to fabricate a spacer, 3/16" thick with a 15mm center hole and a diameter of the Dyna-S kits rotor. This spacer will install between the top of the Dyna-S rotor and the factory Suzuki advancer assembly hardware. Also, you will need to file a notch on the Dyna-S ignition plate to allow clearance of the oil pressure switch and to allow timing adjustment. We have attached the DS3-3C installation guide for your review."

Has anybody ever made a spacer such as this?



 
I can make you one if you'd like. Private Message me your address and I'll get it out to you asap👍
 
I am studying the instructions for installing my Dyna S system on my 450. I know that the ignitor will no longer be needed but there are two wires, white and black/yellow going to the coils. Can I eliminate the ignitor completely and cap off these two wires? The instructions don't say anything about these wires once you cut the orange/white wires from the connectors and attach to the new coils.
 

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I am studying the instructions for installing my Dyna S system on my 450. I know that the ignitor will no longer be needed but there are two wires, white and black/yellow going to the coils. Can I eliminate the ignitor completely and cap off these two wires? The instructions don't say anything about these wires once you cut the orange/white wires from the connectors and attach to the new coils.

Yes, remove the old ignitor box and throw it away.
 
I am moving forward finally with my Dyna S upgrade but have hit a road block within the first hour. How does the Dyna S rotor fit on this advance assembly? Does the points cam come off of the rotor? I don't see how his will come off without some kind of puller. The parts fiche shows this as one item and not two.
 

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You would think so. If it does pull off it will need a puller of some sort. I didn't want to start wrenching it just yet.

Update: I used a puller and got it off. It was very dirty!!
 
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You'll need to remove the E clips holding the weights on and take those out, then the rotor will simply lift straight off the shaft.

It should be easy with no puller required.

If you feel you need to use any strength in order to do so, something is not right.

Note that there will be a very thin washer under the rotor (at least on my 82 450 there is) so don't lose that and put it under the Dynatek rotor.

I'd highly recommend lubing with light oil also or even engine oil will do in a pinch. You want the rotor spinning nice and easily on the shaft so the advance mechanism works correctly.

When reassembling, take careful note in the Dynatek instructions which way to orient the rotor also otherwise you'll be 180 degrees out and it won't fire.
 
I did need the puller or I guess I could have used some channel locks to wrench it off. It was stuck from some old grease and rust spots. Hopefully it will work for me. I got it cleaned, lubed and reinstalled. It seem to function okay. Now to complete the install, Dynatek's instructions for the 450 are quite lacking. How did you run the wires. My kit didn't include the piece that seals the wires and advance assembly. What about the oil temp sensor? is that going to be a separate wire?
 
Ah ok, as long as the operation is smooth and easy you should be good to go.

You're right on the instructions as they're really aimed at the 400's as a points replacement.

The kit doesn't have the same seal as what's on the stock wiring, but that cover is really only to keep water and debris out so unless you plan on submerging your bike in a creek crossing or something there's really nothing to worry about there.

You will definitely need to run your own extra wire for the oil pressure switch.

Note it's a pressure switch, not a temperature sensor.
 
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