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Dynojet stage 3 tuning HELP

Bill of course I won?t stop I suffer from OCD I must admit and I am not a quitter by a long shot I like my things functioning properly (or as close to normal as possible regarding cv carbs and stock airbox) i must make clear now that going to an air box is IMPOSSIBLE. The bike if you can see on the pics on my profile is HEAVILY customized by the PO who has a custom / cafe annual competition shop. The 550 came second in 2017 Greece custom motorcycle contest. Anyway to the task at hand. I am starting to second guess the order of the washers and all the stuff on the needle. More digging in the forums last night revealed people even saying to remove COMPLETELY the stock plastic top donut and leave the DJ washer in its place. Does anyone here can say with 100% confidence THE EXACT order of all the needle components???? Unbelievable Dynojet sells a kit that doesn?t have at least basic instructions. And also the bike has to pass the two year mandatory inspection in October so ITS DO OR DIE or else I won?t be able to drive it all the way to the public vehicle inspection office. Also i am starting to get confused about dropping or raising the needle. I know the basic principle that moving the E-clip UP (towards the diaphragm) LEANS it. Moving it down RICHENS it. The stacking of parts ON TOP the E-Clip is I assume the fine tuning amount of leaning or richening you want???
 
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It has to be the needles my friend I am no way close to full throttle when this happens. I feel that it?s on the transition between those two. Midrange is NO GO. It?s baffling bcs even the one sentence <<instructions>> of the kit point that it can be used either with K&N individual pods OR K&N RC-2382 dual oval filters which I have. So it?s not that I have the wrong ones and besides over the years I saw many 550s have the same ones on the internet and be jetted with DJ kits. But as usual nobody says the magic recipe (needle positions etc)
 
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The big problem with online advice is, you never see your advisors bike perform in person. So you never have the chance to judge for yourself.
 
SUCCESS.! Thanks to Bill and everyone else who commented here! My thought about removing completely the plastic donut on top of the needle was correct. FINAL SETTINGS. 550E with K&N -RC2382 and 4-1 : stock pilot/150DJ mains/ and most important. Spring/OEM washer/E-Clip on 3rd groove/DJ washer/plastic cone/circlip. Bike runs like raped ape HOLY S€&@“€T starts with normal amounts of choke(not fully open like before even in summer months) drops down to perfect idle 1100-1150 rpms and most importantly GREAT MIDRANGE——>TOP END. I should have spent the money earlier on the kit but it’s never too late!
 
Well that's great! We knew it had to be you to do the creative thinking, solve the puzzle, we can't examine a bike remotely.
 
Bill I just Hope further down the road people will see this thread and know what to do exactly and not scourge forever around on the net.! Thanks again for your help! May I ask that in the future I shoot you a PM if I decide to start looking for any more serious performance mods??
 
Sure I'll do my best. You sure live in a very historical town, post some pics of your bike in front of some cool vistas.
 
My thought about removing completely the plastic donut on top of the needle was correct. FINAL SETTINGS. 550E with K&N -RC2382 and 4-1 : stock pilot/150DJ mains/ and most important. Spring/OEM washer/E-Clip on 3rd groove/DJ washer/plastic cone/circlip.

I am not familiar with your carbs and the needle/washer stack. Did that lower the needle or raise it?


Mark
 
Glad you have it running well. The nylon ring, with or without the thinner spacer on some carbs, have caused assembly issues with several models. If they are installed in reverse or not installed at all, the mixture will suffer.
I'm not familiar with your 550's carbs but the nylon ring eliminates metal to metal contact (?), as with my VM carbs, so I'm not sure removing it is the right thing to do. Can you find a reliable assembly diagram? Why would the use of a jetting kit, specifically the jet needle and jetting spacer, require the removal of the factory nylon ring to operate well? The jetting kit parts mentioned should work WITH the factory parts.
Just wondering what the purpose is of the "donut" you mention?
 
Keith trust me I spend so many evenings after work trying to solve the kit assembly riddle with the DJ kit that I am glad it?s over.! The problem is that the kit itself is awesome BUT Dynojet doesn?t give you instructions for the needle assembly order or in other models with CVs like 750s,850s etc they give WRONG ONES.!! I searched and searched all over this forum and got into that conclusion. It?s just trial and error until you find the correct spot.as for the plastic stock donut that sits on top of the stock needle I think it leans out things due to its thickness. I read that people who wanted to richen out their midrange with stock mikuni CVs like mine were sanding down this donut to reduce its overall thickness. When I completely removed it in one of the MANY assemblies I did it solved my problem immediately and the bike feels like completely different animal. Never expected that much <<waking>> up from a jetkit and an exhaust. Thank god my Getto way of running the bike before the kit with covering the filters with small strips of bandages kept my valves alive and didn?t cook them off
 
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Before you found the fix, I read your posts and it sounded like you thought the bike was running very rich. I thought the opposite, that the problem you described was actually momentary fuel starvation, caused by a sudden drop in vacuum when you opened the throttle any quicker than the set up could handle. Pods will do that to CV's.
I made a reply suggesting to richen the pilot circuit or jet needle circuit, sent the reply, then realized I missed two pages of your thread and you had found the fix. I deleted that post.
If your nylon ring is similar to the ones used in the VM series carbs, it is quite thick and does force the jet needle downward and that leans the mixture at 1/5 to approx' 3/4 throttle. Removing it would richen the mixture by more than one needle clip position...much richer. On my VM's, it doesn't cause any issues, in fact, it needs to be installed or there will be metal to metal contact.
I'm just glad you're happy with your bike now. Owning these old bikes can be frustrating when you factor in age, wear, previous owners, etc. At least with the GSR you're not alone. We've all been there. Have fun!
 
SUCCESS.! Thanks to Bill and everyone else who commented here! My thought about removing completely the plastic donut on top of the needle was correct. FINAL SETTINGS. 550E with K&N -RC2382 and 4-1 : stock pilot/150DJ mains/ and most important. Spring/OEM washer/E-Clip on 3rd groove/DJ washer/plastic cone/circlip. Bike runs like raped ape HOLY S?&@??T starts with normal amounts of choke(not fully open like before even in summer months) drops down to perfect idle 1100-1150 rpms and most importantly GREAT MIDRANGE??>TOP END. I should have spent the money earlier on the kit but it?s never too late!

I am about to configure the same setup to a '80 550L. Thank you very much for providing the final settings! I will report back with the progress
 
Hi mate.! My opinion is do all the modifications as the instructions of the kit say to do. Dont tap the air bits just push them in place with the little tool they provide and pour some glue which is also provided on the perimeter of each air restrictor thingy. Drilling the slides with the smaller bit of the 2 provided i think is essential just be careful cause the hole on the slides is at an angle and you have to follow the same pattern nice and easy dont rush the drilling. Its nerve racking i know but just do it slowly a little at a time. When i did everything the difference was crazy at least on my bike with a 4-1 marving racing exhaust and the dual K&Ns. Now the bike is not a 550 anymore i converted it to a 674cc using gs650 parts. Completely different machine performance wise jboge123
 
Your bike looks great and I’m glad to hear it’s running well. Good to know some of those tips about the Dyno jet kit. I will have the same K&N’s but my exhaust is a MAC 4 into 1 with a performance baffle. Hopefully the settings you listed will be close to what I need for my bike which is otherwise a stock ‘80 550L
 
Logic says that if everything is in order you will notice the same benefits as i did last summer when i installed it. Thats the beauty of those DJ kits they take out the majority of the guess work for people who dont have tens of jets,needles etc laying around to make many many trial and error fittings and stuff. Only bad thing with those machines is that it NEVER ENDS if you really like your bike and want to keep it instead of getting a bigger cc motor you will constantly be purchasing upgrades and trying to squeeze out more from it. I am looking now on getting a set of mikuni RS carbs for the new engine. Did i say it never ends???:cool:
 
Well I’m going to give it a shot by tuning my bike to the specs you listed out in your post. granted, you have a larger head than my stock 550, so I don’t know if that will have a significant impact on the settings. I hear you buddy.. there’s always one more thing to add hahah. I am trying to post a screenshot of my bike.. I modified it to turn it into a brat bike and I run TKC 80 knobby tires. I like to take it down dirt roads
 
No you got it backwards. The settings i have written here was when the bike was still a 550 with dual K&Ns and the 4-1 marving. So you will have no problems to get in the sweet spot by following them and then fine tune. After making the conversion only thing i had to do on the already dynojetted carbs from the 550 was swap out the main from the smaller of the 2 sets that was included on the kit and i was running as a 550 to the bigger ones to accomodate for the increase in cc. If memory is correct now i have the 155(?) Dynojet mains in there. The bigger of the two provided.
 
Carbs were ultrasoniced today, all orings replaced, and stage 3 kit installed! I decided against drilling the slides for now just in case my bike were for some reason not work with the new air filters I figure I can atleast go back to stock. I did install the air correctors and the 150 main jets.

I followed the needle settings exactly as you described. With the E clip, did you put that on the 3rd slot (counting from the top of the needle downwards).

thank you
 
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