Electrosport Stator after 250 miles

[posplayr]

Here is a pic of my GS1100ED stator after fresh install. I was chasing an oil leak and so reremoved the stator cover when it was the starter O ring that was the real issue.

I'm using a FET R/R FH0012A although my charging was a little low (just at 14V) but that has been corrected now. The FH0012A like to regulate with a fresh battery at 14.5V. It is speced ther IIRC within +/- 0.25V

Obvioulsy this thing is getting hotter than it would like. The part in the oil is still nice and blue.

 

[posplayr]

I'm starting to wonder if the FET R/R with it's tighter regulation to 14.5 volts is stressing the stator more than a Stock or Honda type with soft SCR control.

The SCR type does not have a tight of control over the voltage and allows the voltage to get higher 15.0-15.5V as per the Suzuki spec. This might cook the battery more but in the process is relieving the stator from taking up the slack (i.e. at 14.5 volts output the extra power is going back to the stator) .

The stator is already at the limit. With the FET tight control that extra 1 to 1.5V at 10 amps is 10-15 watts of power being dissapated in the stator.

The Electrosport R/R is supposed to also have more current capacity by 20%???. This might not be a good combo.

Electrosport and FET R/R

 

[bonanzadave]

Thank you for taking the plunge into the newest GS Mod. The Original (patent applied for of course) Posplayr Stator Cooler !!

 

[posplayr]

Thank you for taking the plunge into the newest GS Mod. The Original (patent applied for of course) Posplayr Stator Cooler !!

Now your thinking. I was considering a paddle wheel to spray oil over the top of the stator but dont think there is enough room.

 

[salty_monk]

I have that same combination on my 750.....

Think I will change to Rick's next time.

They definitely have a bit more capacity in those stators, that one reads about 0.7 volt higher or more than any other stock one I've looked at (both with FET & Stock RR's).

Dan

 

[posplayr]

I have that same combination on my 750.....

Think I will change to Rick's next time.

They definitely have a bit more capacity in those stators, that one reads about 0.7 volt higher or more than any other stock one I've looked at (both with FET & Stock RR's).

Dan

which is they?

 

[salty_monk]

Sorry - mine is blue & looks like yours (without the burnt bits last time I saw it!). Guess it's an electrosport. It came in a parts Bike that Nessism had so not 100% sure as it's not marked. It could be an RM.

The GSXR & Hyabusa stators look very similar... would they fit? I thought someone on here stated that a GS500 or maybe a Vstrom one would fit.

Jim - could you have a lower oil level in your stator because of the Oil cooler & exterior Cam Feeder?


PART # A-SS5-N 1980-82 GS450ED 1980-82 GS450GAF/GAZ/GAX 1980-82 GS550 LT/LX/LZ 1980-82 GS550M2 1980-823 GS550TX/EX 1980-82 GS650GD/GLD/GLX/GLZ 1980-82 GS650MD/GZ/GX 1980-82 GS750ET/EX/EZ 1980-82 GS750L/LN/LT/LX 1980-83 GS750SD/TZ/TD 1980-83 GS850GD/GT/GX/GZ 1980-83 GS850GLD/GLT/GLX/GLZ 1982 GS1000SZ

From this ad: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-...torcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_665wt_1165


Vstrom Stator:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/09-S...torcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_5119wt_939

GSXR Stator:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/04-S...orcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_4368wt_1165

GS500 Stator:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/89-S...torcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_500wt_1182


Dan

 

[Dogma]

Is the discoloration for sure a sign of impending failure?

 

[posplayr]

Is the discoloration for sure a sign of impending failure?

It is a clear sign of excessive temperature due to insufficent cooling. Failure is a matter of time.

 

[Steve]

Is the discoloration for sure a sign of impending failure?

It is a clear sign of excessive temperature due to insufficent cooling. Failure is a matter of time.

Personally, I am of the opinion that the discoloration merely indicates that the PAINT is not able to handle the temperature.
There is no visible indication yet whether the insulation on the wire has broken down, just the paint that covers everything.

.

 

[Matchless]

Now your thinking. I was considering a paddle wheel to spray oil over the top of the stator but dont think there is enough room.

Maybe some more holes like they did for the GSXR slipper clutch mod?

Your pictures are very interesting and made me wonder what the maximum heat range was for the finishing epoxy used that was applied to the windings.
I also wonder what is really best, a thick, heavy epoxy finishing coat that may contain the heat from the copper or no coating, allowing for quicker dissipation.
The stuff I used was, thermal class H, 180 degree Celcius, two part epoxy, final cure at 130 degrees Celcius for 24 hours for maximum effect (I used the shortened approach). I also have not taken it out to see what it looks like by now.

Keep well.

 

[posplayr]

Maybe some more holes like they did for the GSXR slipper clutch mod?

Your pictures are very interesting and made me wonder what the maximum heat range was for the finishing epoxy used that was applied to the windings.
I also wonder what is really best, a thick, heavy epoxy finishing coat that may contain the heat from the copper or no coating, allowing for quicker dissipation.
The stuff I used was, thermal class H, 180 degree Celcius, two part epoxy, final cure at 130 degrees Celcius for 24 hours for maximum effect (I used the shortened approach). I also have not taken it out to see what it looks like by now.

Keep well.

How about a top end oiler fitting that goes through the top of the stator cover to spray the top of the stator

Welding a bung with an oil line might be quite effective


Actually I've been considering various electrical alternatives


Spoke to one of my buds here at work that is experienced with windings and he says that the insulation is normally pretty thin but the outer epoxy coating is to mechanical fix the windings so that the magnetic forces on the windings (as they pass through a magnetic feild) do not cause relative motion (i.e. flex) and wear through the insulation shorting to adjacent windings.

There is also a substantial conduction path into the aluminum stator cover as well, so it is not all through liquid oil cooling. It is apaprent that the upper part running dryer is seeing more thermal stress.

 

[Dogma]

...
Actually I've been considering various electrical alternatives
...

Dare we hope for a brushless starter/generator mod? (clutchless too)

 

[posplayr]

Dare we hope for a brushless starter/generator mod? (clutchless too)

Was discussed but to ambitous; I think there is an existing Alternator mod although pricey.


No I'm starting to think more hydraulic :-\\\maybe the easy solution.

 

[Turtleface]

For sure let us know how this works out. I've done just about all your recommended mods for the electrical system, and also have the Electrosport stator. I went the Electrosport route for my R/R though, otherwise we have incredibly similar electrical systems. Haven't put any miles on this combo though, so I'll try to remember to pull my stator cover after 250 miles to see if mine's similar. Let the data collection begin!

 

[posplayr]

I spent quite a bit of time yesterday and today pondering the issue. I had been looking at various ways to dump power into frame mounted resistors, both on the R/R output side as well as the AC side. All of this in an attempt to reduce the amount of power that the stator had to dump whenthe r/r was in regulation. However, one thing that I had apparently been wrong about was the amount of power that this Permenant Magnet(PM) motor puts out.

Apparantly the output voltage is very closely approximated by the being proportional to RPM and therefore the power increases to the square of the RPM. That means if the output is approximately 250 watts by 2500 RPM, it is at 500,750 and 1000 watts at 5K,7.5K and 10K RPM respectively.

So running at elevated RPM for sustained periods causes over heating. My first 250 miles the subject of this thread were at pretty high sustained RPM for a good portion.

My OEM R/R that the PO installed was also burnt (it may have been aftermarket but the PO had it installed at a dealer). This new electrosport you have seen.

There a couple of options to try.

1.) change to a Kawasaki stator replacement
2.) Improve oil flow to the stator by directly spraying a supplu from the rear distribution block.

I'll probably do both. Below is a description of the Kawazaki stator. I suspect that these use smaller wires and so dont generate the same amount of current.


Bill Chef13660 has been using a Kawasaki Stator for some time now in his bike and when he swapped it out recently to do his BB, he said there was no change to the coloration of the stator.

Here is a cross reference I got from Dennis Kirk looking up the model crossed to an 83 GS1100ED.

Part 201208 fits the following machines:
1981 Kawasaki KZ550A
1982 Kawasaki KZ550A
1983 Kawasaki KZ550A
1981 Kawasaki KZ550C Ltd
1982 Kawasaki KZ550C Ltd
1983 Kawasaki KZ550C Ltd
1981 Kawasaki KZ550D GPz
1983 Kawasaki KZ550F Spectre
1982 Kawasaki KZ550H GPz
1983 Kawasaki KZ550H GPz
1983 Kawasaki KZ550M Ltd
1982 Kawasaki KZ750N Spectre
1983 Kawasaki KZ750N Spectre
1984 Kawasaki ZX550A GPz
1985 Kawasaki ZX550A GPz
I just bought this used one. See how nice the color is?


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT

 

[boontonmike]

Been researching the electrics in my bike for a couple days now and this post caught my attention. i'm bringing this one back from the dead because I had an idea and wanted some input.

I have the oil cooler where the lines come from the rear block like others. I was thinking that instead of having the return line dump into the top of the block back to that fitting; hypothetically I could reroute the return line from the cooler to a new fitting dumping directly onto the stator. Not only would this provide oil to cool the stator, but it would also be precooled oil coming straight out of the cooler unit. I don't see any negatives to this setup as the oil still dumps back into the bottom end either way.

I'm in the works on doing a whole new electrical system and was just browsing ways to protect it during high RPM usage and this seems like it would be an easy way to help eliminate some heat.

Edit: (another thought popped up)

I have removed my starter and thus have the port where the starter went through to the starter gear. Now I can plug that up, but I was thinking if it would benefit shedding heat from the stator to incorporate a large breather there. I eventually want to shorten up that side case for case to road clearance but that shouldn't hinder any of these other ideas.