N
NvMessner
Guest
I was talkin to buddy at work and he mentioned lifters. Said he had a similar sound on his old harley.
-
Required reading for all forum users!!!
Welcome!
Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.A note to new registrants...
All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.A Special Note about Email accounts!
DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.A note to old forum members...
I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.
Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...
-
Returning Visitors
If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.
If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.
These engines have overhead cams, so there are no lifters or pushrods.
N
NvMessner
Guest
Ha. Yes.....idiot.... Only other thought is a valve clinking
N
NvMessner
Guest
I got the bike back together and fired it up. After it got warm the clink started again. I went out and got a stethoscope. After pokin around for a bit I notices the clink was loudest at the tach drive gizmo....which looked fine from the inside....
N
NvMessner
Guest
I got the tach drive out. Still Clinking. Decided to just ride it and keep an eye on it
One two 750s we have heard a click like you describe. Kind of a double click, like a bad chain link going around the two sprockets. Looked inside, could find nothing wrong.
One of the engines broke a cam chain at high RPM not too long afterwards, although it was running way too hot with almost no oil in the engine at the time.
Not sure if the click had anything to do with it.
One of the engines broke a cam chain at high RPM not too long afterwards, although it was running way too hot with almost no oil in the engine at the time.
Not sure if the click had anything to do with it.
G
Guest
Guest
That is definitely cam walk !
The exhaust cam is walking side to side every time it pushes on the valves.
Thats why you hear cla clunk......cla-clunk......
I've had a valve cover off and watched this happening.
When one lobe pushes down on the shim and bucket the pushes the cam to the opposite side and when the next nobe comes down that pushes it the other way.
The rest of the time the lobes are not touching the buckets you hear no noise.
Now. For solutions:
1 replace the buckets and shims with new. Rocking buckets will do this kind of t hing.
2 use a cam spacer shim from a gs500 to shim the cam so thay there isnt enough movement to make it walk.
3 replace the cam with one that fits the head better.
My gs500 made this noise all the time at idle untill I swapped cams with one that had a shim with it.
Also you could just leave the rubber half moon piece out of the head on the exhaust cam and watch the cam jump side to side. Also you could push the cam in the middle and stop it from making noise.
The exhaust cam is walking side to side every time it pushes on the valves.
Thats why you hear cla clunk......cla-clunk......
I've had a valve cover off and watched this happening.
When one lobe pushes down on the shim and bucket the pushes the cam to the opposite side and when the next nobe comes down that pushes it the other way.
The rest of the time the lobes are not touching the buckets you hear no noise.
Now. For solutions:
1 replace the buckets and shims with new. Rocking buckets will do this kind of t hing.
2 use a cam spacer shim from a gs500 to shim the cam so thay there isnt enough movement to make it walk.
3 replace the cam with one that fits the head better.
My gs500 made this noise all the time at idle untill I swapped cams with one that had a shim with it.
Also you could just leave the rubber half moon piece out of the head on the exhaust cam and watch the cam jump side to side. Also you could push the cam in the middle and stop it from making noise.
Last edited:
If it was cam walk why would it be so rhythmic, exactly one double click every twenty or so revolutions every time?
I'm no doctor, but it sounds like something going around with the cam chain to me.
Should be easy enough to prove by pushing on the end of each cam as it idles.
What is this cam spacer of which you speak?
I'm no doctor, but it sounds like something going around with the cam chain to me.
Should be easy enough to prove by pushing on the end of each cam as it idles.
What is this cam spacer of which you speak?
G
Guest
Guest
The 500's from 89 and up had the same type of cams as that did. But they had a washer that slid on the end of the cam and wedged between the cam's end and the cam cap. There were a few thicknesses I think.
As for why the rythmic clink only every so often and not every rotation of the cam. That's harder to envision but I'll try and explain the way I saw it happening
Imagine the cam bucket was so loose in there that the thing rocked side to side. When the lobe came around and pushed down on the shim and bucket, it would make the bucket rock to one side and as it pushed the bucket down, that made the bucket tip back and then in the middle it would tip to the outside for a second and the whole shim and bucket seemed to have rotated 45 degrees. Then when over center the bucket would shift to the other side and you could see it push the cam as it rotated outward and then let it go once the shim had rotated 90 degrees.
Here's another way of looking at it. Imagine you stuck a feeler gauge in there to measure and then rotated the cam around and got the thing stuck but you only caught the corner of the cam. As you rotate it, only the edge of the cam is hitting the feeler gauge and hitting the shim. As you rotate the cam your actually making the bucket rotate and if the bucket is sloppy and rocks to the side its resulting force wants to push the cam lobe away. And in this case away is towards the side instead of straight up and down.
I think its the rocking motion that gives a resultant force that pushes the cam to one side which causes the clink clink and then let's it go while the cam is not loaded anymore.
And if it was an issue with the chain (as in bent or warped which is possible) you would hear it more randomly or not as often. If for example two links were bent, They would make their way around the sprockets several times before hitting the same place at the right time to push the cam sideways. So they could only be affecting the cam when it wasn't loaded and free to float but the next time it came around the cam could be loaded and not be able to shift over to make that sound.
There was something about this a while back with a 4 cylinder doing the exact same thing. The only fix was new buckets after messing with just about everything else. Even a discussion about making thrust bearings and machining the head to limit the cam walk's travel as a fix.
Easiest thing to try is remove the half moon and use something pointed to push on the center of the cam and see if you can feel it pushing back rhythmically or push harder and make it stop all together.
Could be just one bucket and shim causing it.
Could be dirt under the shim causing this too!!
If you were to take a plain head and put a cam in it and then put the cover on, you can shake it side to side and make this exact noise!
As a matter of fact I was bored one day and measured the sound with a audio analyser while shaking the head. Then compared that to the noise my bike was making. Same frequency clinking.
As for why the rythmic clink only every so often and not every rotation of the cam. That's harder to envision but I'll try and explain the way I saw it happening
Imagine the cam bucket was so loose in there that the thing rocked side to side. When the lobe came around and pushed down on the shim and bucket, it would make the bucket rock to one side and as it pushed the bucket down, that made the bucket tip back and then in the middle it would tip to the outside for a second and the whole shim and bucket seemed to have rotated 45 degrees. Then when over center the bucket would shift to the other side and you could see it push the cam as it rotated outward and then let it go once the shim had rotated 90 degrees.
Here's another way of looking at it. Imagine you stuck a feeler gauge in there to measure and then rotated the cam around and got the thing stuck but you only caught the corner of the cam. As you rotate it, only the edge of the cam is hitting the feeler gauge and hitting the shim. As you rotate the cam your actually making the bucket rotate and if the bucket is sloppy and rocks to the side its resulting force wants to push the cam lobe away. And in this case away is towards the side instead of straight up and down.
I think its the rocking motion that gives a resultant force that pushes the cam to one side which causes the clink clink and then let's it go while the cam is not loaded anymore.
And if it was an issue with the chain (as in bent or warped which is possible) you would hear it more randomly or not as often. If for example two links were bent, They would make their way around the sprockets several times before hitting the same place at the right time to push the cam sideways. So they could only be affecting the cam when it wasn't loaded and free to float but the next time it came around the cam could be loaded and not be able to shift over to make that sound.
There was something about this a while back with a 4 cylinder doing the exact same thing. The only fix was new buckets after messing with just about everything else. Even a discussion about making thrust bearings and machining the head to limit the cam walk's travel as a fix.
Easiest thing to try is remove the half moon and use something pointed to push on the center of the cam and see if you can feel it pushing back rhythmically or push harder and make it stop all together.
Could be just one bucket and shim causing it.
Could be dirt under the shim causing this too!!
If you were to take a plain head and put a cam in it and then put the cover on, you can shake it side to side and make this exact noise!
As a matter of fact I was bored one day and measured the sound with a audio analyser while shaking the head. Then compared that to the noise my bike was making. Same frequency clinking.
Last edited:
N
NvMessner
Guest
Right on! WISDOM!!! ill give it a look see. I was thinkin about replacing buckets.
