Engine Paint - PJ1, VHT, or POR 15?

[Guest]

Yet another revival to this old thread...

I'm finally going to order some paints and stuff this week to get a roll on again (thanks Mr Rudd!), and had an email conversation with the POR 15 sales guy over here in Aus.

Interestingly enough, the engine enamel isn't high heat enough for the fins of an air cooled engine, so they actually recommend the Brilliant Aluminium or the Black Velvet high heat paints. Unfortunately that either means silver or matt black.

I'll be taking a closer look at the colours in the catalog I have to see if the black is too matt or if it will be okay.

Only other downside with these high heat paints is that they need to be baked on, either in an oven or with the engine running. This is to prevent moisture build up underneath the coats of paint.

Seeing as I can't see me getting the engine running in a short enough time, I guess I'm going to have to try to bake it the oven or something.

 

[Nessism]

I'm finally going to order some paints and stuff this week to get a roll on again (thanks Mr Rudd!), and had an email conversation with the POR 15 sales guy over here in Aus.

Interestingly enough, the engine enamel isn't high heat enough for the fins of an air cooled engine, so they actually recommend the Brilliant Aluminium or the Black Velvet high heat paints. Unfortunately that either means silver or matt black.

Just finished painting my GS1000 engine with POR-15 silver engine paint. Hope those guys you talked to were just being over careful about the temps. I'm going to be majorly bummed if this paint burns and turns brown.

 

[Guest]

Going by what he was saying, the only issue is going to be the fins, but given other guys have used the engine enamel and that I haven't heard anything bad yet, I would say you should be pretty safe.

Time will tell I guess...

 

[Nessism]

Going by what he was saying, the only issue is going to be the fins, but given other guys have used the engine enamel and that I haven't heard anything bad yet, I would say you should be pretty safe.

Time will tell I guess...

On top of the head, and around the exhaust ports, should be the highest temps I think. The fins should be lower temp since heat will be getting sucked out by the air.

 

[Guest]

Yeah good point, didn't even think about that!

Anyway, I can't seem to find my catalog now to get a better look at the matt colour, so I'll keep digging.

Guess I'll stick with what they recommend for the time being and see what happens.

 

[Guest]

So here's another question...

Given the POR-15 high heat paint needs to be baked on at over 150 degress (Celcius for you guys in the US), I have two options...

1. Peeve the wife and stick it in the kitchen oven.

2. Do something really dodgy and scary and stick it in the gas BBQ (solid plate, not grill).

If I was to stick it in the kitchen oven and wrap it up in foil, do you reckon I could keep the smells out? Or is that a waste of time? Given I can smell food through foil when it's baking, I'm guessing a waste of time...

I'm just really nervous about sticking it in the gas BBQ even if it won't be exposed directly to the naked flame.

 

[Nessism]

Use the BBQ.

 

[posplayr]

Pete

Pete

I have had no issues with the Glossy Black engine paint and it doesn't seem to need to be cured on my 1100ED


http://www.por15.com/ENGINE-ENAMEL/productinfo/EEPA/


This Silver has no issues either that I have used.

http://www.por15.com/POR-20-ALUMINUM/productinfo/P2G/


This stuff has repeatedly bubbled, chipped and flaked almost within the first 1 minute of startup. This was after 3 sand blasting including curing with a heat gun and IR temperature sensor for what seemed an eternity. Calling tech support . Maybe it works in outer space, but that did not do me much good. I used an enamel barbecue paint and it did not chip one iota

I WONT USE THIS STUFF or any of the high heats again for Exhaust. :evil:

http://www.por15.com/FACTORY-MANIFOLD-GRAY/productinfo/FMGG/

Pos

 

[Guest]

That's very interesting...

The engine enamels are moisture cured, don't need to be baked, but the high heat stuff needs to be baked.

Perhaps I should just stick with the engine enamel? Now I'm confused...

 

[Nessism]

Won't the engine heat cure the paint? Just try not to spill any gas on the thing until after a couple of heat cycles.

 

[Guest]

Normally yes, but if you don't cure it in a short period of time, the paint doesn't bond properly to the metal and moisture can get in, resulting in peeling etc.

So given the length of time it's taken me to get to this point, I can't see me having the engine put back together and fired up soon enough to be able to cure it with the engine heat, so will have to bake.

 

[Guest]

Well I bit the bullet yesterday and ordered some paint (PPC/POR-15 stuff)...

Black Velvet for the crank cases, head etc.

Glisten PC to put a clear coat over the polished case covers, starter motor cover, etc.

Blackcote for the frame, swingarm, and hopefully fork legs.

I also got some solvent and other stuff as the guy from PPC recommended thinning the Black Velvet slightly to help brush it on as it's a bit thick straight out of the tin.

So hopefully sometime around May or June I'll actually have some paint on the engine and be able to get started with the rebuild. My mate should be picking it all up from the reseller tomorrow.

 

[Shin-Ken 1074]

Hi Pete, Nessism is correct about the heat regarding engine fins. The block and the rear of the block that has limited air flow will retain higher temps in the case that the fins that are thinner with a greater surface area and drawing heat away in the air flow. Street rodders painting blocks and encasing them in lots of steel have used POR15 for years and seem to be happy with the results so Iam hoping it will be fine for an air cooled block. Let us know how it turns out, I keen to hear about the Glisten PC on the cases as Iam planning to do the same with mine. Cheers.

 

[Guest]

I'll definitely be keeping you all up to date with how I go, may just not be very quick updates

 

[posplayr]

Pete

Pete

I would strongly suggest getting even a cheap sprayer. Even though the Por-15 paints flow out very smoothly, they flow out so smooth that there are drips at the bottom of the part if you try and brush.

With a little bit of adjustment, some type of a simple sprayer will produce wonderful results and you won't be trying to cut drips off the edge of the parts.

Jim

 

[jwhelan65]

I would strongly suggest getting even a cheap sprayer. Even though the Por-15 paints flow out very smoothly, they flow out so smooth that there are drips at the bottom of the part if you try and brush.

With a little bit of adjustment, some type of a simple sprayer will produce wonderful results and you won't be trying to cut drips off the edge of the parts.

Jim

Jim,

Did you paint your bodyparts ?

 

[posplayr]

Joe,
Yea I did the body, but that was with PPG paints not Por-15
Grey primer
OEM Red Base
Too much gold pearl
Clear
Decals
Final Clear.
I like the way it came out.
Jim

 

[Guest]

Thanks for the tip Posplayer,

I plan to start with the simplest part, the valve cover, and see how it goes.

My housemate does have a sprayer, but I've never sprayed before and my garage isn't really set up in a way that will make it easy to spray, which was why I was hoping to brush.

I'll keep what you have said in mind as I brush the first bit and see if it is going to be too awkward cleaning up drips.

The other concern with spraying is that with the moisture curing paints (all but the high heat ones), they advise great caution as any paint spray that gets in your lungs will cure in there due to this, so they recommend if you do spray to use proper protective spray gear, which I don't have currently.

Anyway, will see how I go with the first bit and decide what's going to be best from there. My first time doing all this, so it's all gonna be a big learning curve.

 

[Skyboy8950]

Hate to jump in here, but this sounds fun. What's the best way to prep your metals for paint? From strip to (before) paint?

 

[Guest]

Can't comment on the best way yet, coz I'm just about to start for the first time

However, to prep for the high heat paint, I'll be stripping the paint, then using the POR-15 marine clean and metal ready etc. to get a good surface for the paint to stick to.

For the bits I'm going to polish, I'll be doing the same, except I won't be using metal ready and instead will polish it all up first then use the POR-15 AP120 to prepare it for the clear coat.

As far as the frame, forks, swingarm, etc. goes I'll just be keying the existing paint with sandpaper, using the marine clean and metal ready, then going straight over the top.

At least that's the plan at the moment, but I do need to reread all the prep notes from POR-15 to make sure I'm getting the best surface I can to paint.