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Engine sezied Please help!

  • Thread starter Thread starter c&c
  • Start date Start date
Yes I have a manual. The PO gave it to me.

Who is Tom?

What is FMS?
I followed the Carb Rebuild.

Do you guys put blue loctit on the cam retainer bolts?
There seams to be some on the threads already which I`m removing right now.
 
No loctite on those bolts. When questions like this come up don't post here, look in the factory Suzuki service manual (FSM) (don't trust just anyone). If you don't have one, get a copy from Basscliff's website.
 
It says to put some molybdmun lube on the journal. I do not have any. Is there an alternative?
 
Nessism said:
Now reinstall the cams per the service manual instruction. Once that's done, wind up the cam chain tensioner and push in the plunger, set the lock screw, install the tensioner, release the lock screw 1/2 turn, then tighten the nut again. Hopefully you didn't bend any valves by trying to rotate the engine with the tensioner removed. Please tell us you didn't use the starter button to spin the engine over with the tensioner out. If you did, you bent valves.
Click to expand...

The engine turns freely with the cams removed. Probably because all the vales are in the closed position.
I installed the cams, installed the tensioner according to the instructions. Turned the engine and I heard the squeak of metal against metal.
The same squeak just before it stopped at idle.
This must mean that one or more valves are bent?
Do I need to change all the valves or just the ones that are bent.?
I would have to change the bent valves and the guides?
Or maybe get the head from a better performing one? 1985 GS1100?

Would a 1981 GS750 head work as a direct swap?

I`m doing a complete tear down this winter. It`s bee planed for a long time now. I would like to do the minimum to get it going for the rest of the season.

Note to future self : Dont you ever ever fkn forget the chain tensioner!
 
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You might want to break out the feeler gauges and check valve adjustment clearance. If some of the clearances are sky high now that's a clear sign of bent valves. Assuming that's the case, you can most likely get away with just changing out the valves that are bent. It shouldn't be difficult to find some good used valves if you post in the Parts Wanted forum since many of the hot rod guys go to oversize valves.
 
Not sure if you can do this because I have not seen it myself but when I check for bent valves on a vehicle I always turn them upside down and fill each combustion chamber with a solvent and leave it set. If the valves are not seating obviously you will leak the solvent out. I do this because I do not want to trust my eyes.
 
I did not have any feeler gauges so I decided to remove the head. Besides deduction leads to the head. When I remove the cams again it turned freely and when I removed the head it turned way to easy.

There are no signs of valves hitting the cylinders. It would be easy to spot since the the ample carbon build up.
Could it be that the valves are bent but there are no visible sings?

I put back the cams and rotated them by hand. The exhaust cam turn evenly with the same force needed when the lobe hits the vaves to push them down.
The intake on the other hand, 3 require the same force but one needs more force to push it down and does not come back up with the same energy.

Should I remove all valves and verify them one by one?
I`ll try the leak test on the particular one. and report back.

While I`m at it, what is the best way to remove the carbon build up?
My cylinder compression was somthing like 120 - 90 - 110 - 95. Since it`s already opened should I hone the cylinder walls and change the rings?
 
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Yes on the hone (use a bottle brush type hone) and new rings. New valve stem seals too. It should be easy enough to tell if you have bent valves by spinning them in the guide and looking for wobble. Make sure to get OEM Suzuki gaskets too, not aftermarket, unless you like to gamble on leakage.
 
I am doubting my self. I redid the test, manually turning the cams, I was turning the inlet cam the wrong way, and now they all act the same. nice spring back.

It has to be the valves right? When I remove the cams the first time, thus all valves where in the closed position, and it turned freely then put back the cams and tensioner and the squeek comes back then jams, points to the valve right? I`m freeking out here! Maybe it`s the cam tensioner putting tension where it`s not suppose to and is some how jamming?

You are saying to twist the valves, with them still installed or do I remove them?

I need to clear my head!
 
I rechecked the crank sprocket and it has all it`s teeths.
fkit! I`m going to redo all the valves.
 
what do your cam journals look like?
If you galled the cam journals,when you put chain tension on the cam,it may be trying to seize up there.
Check for any galling,then maybe plastigage them,and see what your clearance is.
 
What size sledge hammer are you using? 5 or 10 lbs? Follow the clymer recommendation.
 
After some sleep and a clear head the only way to eliminate the valves from the equation is to test them one by one. It's a pain in the ass, especial when I'd prefer riding my bike:mad:, but it has to be done. I will check to see if some are bent and replace as needed, I will also do the leak test and fix as necessary.
I will report back on the this week end.
 
I'v just finished removing all the valves and none are bent.
But please take a look at the picture, exhaust side, it's got carbon/heat signs.
Could this be the cause of my valve cover gasket foes. If I kept the engine at low rpm while riding all was ok and when I rev'd it it would start leaking like crazy. No Blue Smoke from the pipes.
I will clean all the carbon deposit then make a leak test and lap as needed.
What else should I do, change the seals? Guides?


Back it the engine seizing . I can't figure it out. With the head removed the pistons move freely. Crank case sprocket has all it's teeth. The valve are not bent, valve gaps where ok, cam's /sprocket are ok. I could turn the engine 3 times before it jamed. No marks of valves hitting the piston. Chain tensioner was installed correctly and working perfectly.

I'm stumped! And more ideas?


DSC_0099.jpg
 
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Started to clean the valves and noticed this scuff/gouge mark on one valve.
It on the top part of the stem.
100_1930.jpg

I think this is what prevented my engine from turning after the 3ed crank turn.
I put it back in it's guide and there is resistance. Looking at the scuff profile there is a hair line ridge.
The mark indicates it happened on its way back up.
There seems to be a micro bend in the stem. Checked again and there is no bend.

So I need a new valve guid and seal?
I tried another valve in the guide and there is no resistance all is smooth.

What do you think?
 
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