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Exhaust bolts

  • Thread starter Thread starter Sojourner
  • Start date Start date
Sojourner said:
Here's a quick question-

I'm going to look for studs and acorn nuts today at the local hardware store. Should I opt for stainless of would zinc work?
Do they need to be a particular grade (like G8, etc.)? I wouldn't think so, but thought I'd ask. Finally, I should use anti-seize regardless of plating? I had been thinking Lock-tite to keep them in place...
Click to expand...

I use grade 12.9 studs and grade 8.8 or 10.9 nuts.
If one of them were to strip, you would rather it be the nut than the stud. ;)

Eric
 
7981GS said:
I use grade 12.9 studs and grade 8.8 or 10.9 nuts.
If one of them were to strip, you would rather it be the nut than the stud. ;)

Eric
Click to expand...

So where did you get your studs? I checked two different AutoZones, an AdvanceAuto, and a Pep Boys and couldn't find anything.
 
So do yours have the little square nub about 5-6mm long? I've found a ton of M8 x 1.25 bolts, but they all have that little unthreaded square nub at the end. I wasn't sure if that would cause a problem or not. I guess I could just put the nub end into the head? There plenty of threaded rod still. Can't rightly do it with the nub at the acorn end since the nub wouldn't give the acorn anything to thread onto.

Also- do you have the part numbers from your order? What length did you get?
 
you can see in my pic on the first page that mine do have the small nubs on the end. I think they are 6 mm hex. They must be for assisting in installation.
I know that if the stud does not bottom out when in its installed position it will start to turn when you go to torque the nuts on for the exhaust flanges. with that 6 mm nub , you can hold it in place while you tighten the flange nut. I would NOT personally put the nub end into the hole, that will be 3-5 additional threads that you are giving away for holding strength.
I think mine looks good....good enough for me at least.
Studs of any sort are a better choice imo.
ps(dont obsess too much) do your best and ride!:)
 
I use 2 inch stainless set screws with the allen head setup in the ends. I leave the allenn head end out to use for installation into the head. Also stainless washers and nuts. Fully threaded ones too. Now here is where you MUST PAY ATTENTION FOLKS!!! THERE ARE OIL GALLEYS THAT RUN THRU THE HEAD RIGHT BEHIND THE EXHAUST BOLT HOLES!!!!!!!!!!! Take a wire or the depth measuring end on your dial callipers and MEASURE THE DEPTH OF THE HOLES. Then you can mark each stud and stop when it gets flush with the head. I have heard of some people cutting a small piece of wood dowel and putting that in each hole to act as a stop when installing studs so the dont break in to any galleys. The dowels will simply burn up and dissolve in the holes eventually.

Another trick is to run a tap into the head to refresh the threads and clean any corrosion and scale out..this willl help the studs go in easier and make it easier to tell when they hit into the dowel stops in the holes. Be sure to blow the holes out real good with lots of air when youre done chasing the threads.
 
Spraying CLR or Limeaway into the holes is always a must for me. I let it sit for a while then flush it out. I then use a brass bore brush.
 
Stainless can really seize up under repeated heat cycles, and with aluminum heads, well, the head is gonna lose. I work with stainless components at work every day. What they told you is sound advice.
 
Douglas said:
The gents at my semi-local fasteners shop told me not to use stainless for manifold studs because I'd just end up snapping them if I ever need to remove them. They didn't sell a regular steel stud there. Is stainless really something to avoid for exhaust applications? Does anyone know where I can find a stud kit in Toronto?
Click to expand...

I'm using stainless for my manifolds, but I've always had 2nd thoughts about it. I know how stainless works with aluminum. I've seen the damage
on outboard motors used in salt water. Electrolysis. I did however use a healthy dose of anti-seize on the treads and I know they're not sticking (yet) because I just tightened them up a bit a week ago.

100_1519.jpg
 
I used the SS fasteners on my pipe with a good helping of antiseize, the copper slip.
 
I've used stainless bolts for years. Whacked on with a dollop of copperslip. I've never had any bother whatsoever - that's many 10's of thousands of miles in all sorts of weather and on winter-salted British roads.
 
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