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Fair price for carb rebuild

  • Thread starter Thread starter ny_redneck04
  • Start date Start date
N

ny_redneck04

Guest
Before riding weather gets here in ny im thinking i better have my carbs looked at/rebuilt.the bikes seems to turn over alot before starting and no matter what the weather if it sits a bite i have to choke it to get it to start then it seems to still turn over to much in my mind not as much if it was cold though..thought i would see what the prices are out there before i go searching.id try to do it myself but carbs and i have never gotten along even car carbs,or am i missing something else that would cause this

thanks
Pat (82 gs1100gk)
 
wgcarbs.com. Get the best job, not the cheapest price, you get what you pay for. If they arent too bad, consider doing them yourself with spray carb cleaner, one at a time. Figure in cost of air filter boots if they are hard
 
Most hard starting problems are due to neglected valve clearance adjustment, have you checked yours yet?

Do the carbs yourself, they are simple.

Not sure I understand your problem, it needs choke to start, then it revs up too high with the choke on?
That's normal on these bikes, that's how they run.
 
woodman said:
wgcarbs.com. Get the best job, not the cheapest price, you get what you pay for. If they arent too bad, consider doing them yourself with spray carb cleaner, one at a time. Figure in cost of air filter boots if they are hard
Click to expand...

George Wired charges $360 + shipping to rebuild a set of Mikuni BS carbs. You can do it yourself with a $15 O-ring kit from cycleorings.com, a bucket of carb dip (about $20), and maybe some float bowl gaskets if yours are torn.

The process is quite easy; just follow the tutoral on the GSR homepage.
 
Rebuild

Rebuild

If you take the carbs off of the bike, rebuild them and put them back on, I think you'll agree that rebuilding them was the most enjoyable part of the process.

The only time you'll get frustrated, angry, dejected and confused is when you're putting them back on (which you've got to do, anyway, if you send them off to someone else). Rebuilding them is easy and kind of fun....plus you'll know it's been done right.
 
woodman said:
wgcarbs.com. Get the best job, not the cheapest price, you get what you pay for. If they arent too bad, consider doing them yourself with spray carb cleaner, one at a time. Figure in cost of air filter boots if they are hard
Click to expand...


Spray carb cleaner is only good to get the job started. IF IT ISN'T DIPPED IT'S NOT CLEAN!

Dip them once and do the job once, spay em do the job twice, once sprayed, then one more time dipped because the spray clean never worked.
 
chuckycheese said:
If you take the carbs off of the bike, rebuild them and put them back on, I think you'll agree that rebuilding them was the most enjoyable part of the process.

The only time you'll get frustrated, angry, dejected and confused is when you're putting them back on (which you've got to do, anyway, if you send them off to someone else). Rebuilding them is easy and kind of fun....plus you'll know it's been done right.
Click to expand...

Pretty easy on a GK, the airbox fits correctly and everything.
 
tkent02 said:
Pretty easy on a GK, the airbox fits correctly and everything.
Click to expand...

Yup, pulling and replacing carbs in a shaftie is easy-peasy. 10 minutes if you're slow.

Agreed with all here -- there's nothing scary about carbs. Download the PDF of the carb cleanup series and follow the instructions.

Your carbs are exactly the same as the ones in the PDF except they're a touch bigger, which makes exactly no difference.
 
Rebuilding the carbs is only part of the job.. Need to check the intake boots & replace the O rings. Carb sync, valve adj, electrical check- proper voltage on coils, and charging operation. ALL can effect how the bike runs. DO it yourself it is not that difficult, just take your time.
 
Last edited:
Besides, that's why we're all here.

Carbs are an easy job. Follow the tutorial, be organized, label the parts and pieces, be careful removing the float pins and save yourself a ton of cash !!!!
Maybe it's just me, but I'd love to work on that beauuutiful GK. Nice ride.:)

I think I'm starting to have a thing for the mighty GK's.........
 
thanks

thanks

thanks for all your replies

Not sure I understand your problem, it needs choke to start, then it revs up too high with the choke on?
That's normal on these bikes, that's how they run.

yes but to choke it all the time to start it??i know they rev up with the choke on.what i was asking was why it had to be choked every time to start

the electrical stuff is all good it better be after last year,,im in the process of looking for intake boots(waiting on local dealer for price) and when i do take them out i will replace everything that needs to be..the intake boots now are not really hard and i dont see any cracks but thats just looking from the outside

after following the tutorial on the stator pages and help from the forum it was very easy i may just do it myself will make the wife happeir then spending money at these tight times lol
 
Larry D said:
Besides, that's why we're all here.

Carbs are an easy job. Follow the tutorial, be organized, label the parts and pieces, be careful removing the float pins and save yourself a ton of cash !!!!
Maybe it's just me, but I'd love to work on that beauuutiful GK. Nice ride.:)

I think I'm starting to have a thing for the mighty GK's.........
Click to expand...
thanks larry it is a beautiful bike but now it is black with silver pin stripes and some silver trim pieces.i had to change it cause there was another one in town that looked exactly like mine and i wasnt having that lol
 
I know it made a big difference on my '93 gsx1100g when I adjusted the fuel adjustment screws under the carbs. I read that factory setting was 1 1/2 turns out, but that was to pass emissions. I set mine at 2 1/2 and hardly have to use the choke.
 
ny_redneck04 said:
Not sure I understand your problem, it needs choke to start, then it revs up too high with the choke on?
That's normal on these bikes, that's how they run.

yes but to choke it all the time to start it??i know they rev up with the choke on.what i was asking was why it had to be choked every time to start
Click to expand...
Yes, it's quite 'normal' to use at least some "choke" when starting. Some have reported rather minimal use of the knob/lever after adjusting the mixture screws out considerably from the factory-set location, but some of them also live in areas where the weather is warmer and they can ride year-round, too. For those of us that still experience "seasons" in our weather patterns, some "choke" use is still required.

When I did my wife's carbs, I adjusted the mixture screws for best idle, and they ended up about 2 1/4 turns out. We use about 1/2 "choke" to start the bike, then quickly regulate engine speed with the "choke" lever to keep it under 2000 rpm. It's stable within a few seconds, then put on the helmet, get on the bike and ride. By the time we are out the driveway and into second gear, the "choke" is off. Your carbs can end up pretty much like that, too, with proper adjustment.

.
 
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