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FH012 Mosfet Regulator

salty_monk

salty_monk

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Lots of discussion about this & I've read it all but I just want to confirm some specifics.

1. Does it need a new wire run to the battery if the stock wire is in good condition? If so why? Is it to do with voltage drop or is it a safety issue where larger wire gauge is needed.

2. If 1 is an essential elelment to fitting it what size fuse & why? (I have read you need a 30amp but the Suzuki Main is only 15amps...)

Thanks!

Dan :)
 
Hey Dan,

If the stock wiring is not showing any measured resistance you are safe to use it, along with the stock fuse box. Regarding the fuse, Suzuki only fit a 15 A fuse since I presume that's all the stator is capable of producing. The FET R/R may be capable of handling 30 or even 40 A, but that doesn't mean the stock wiring can take that much - case in point is all the melted harnesses we've seen around here from the wimpy 15 A stock charging system.
 
salty_monk said:
Lots of discussion about this & I've read it all but I just want to confirm some specifics.

1. Does it need a new wire run to the battery if the stock wire is in good condition? If so why? Is it to do with voltage drop or is it a safety issue where larger wire gauge is needed.

2. If 1 is an essential elelment to fitting it what size fuse & why? (I have read you need a 30amp but the Suzuki Main is only 15amps...)

Thanks!

Dan :)
Click to expand...

There is no difference in wiring requirements between a traditional SCR R/R and a FET based R/R (excluing Honda's 6th sense wire).

Whatever benefits the SCR R/R will benefit the FET R/R in the same way.

You can decide how anal you wanna be about power and grounding. :-#
 
The design sheet lists 1.5M between + and _
http://www.shindengen.com/resources/Product/FH012AA.pdf The SV install guide I was reading said go from the R/R to a fuse then to the + battery terminal.

I just got my FH008 in yesterday.. My plan is to run the + output through a fuse to the batt side of the starter solenoid. The I will run the -neg side to the frame side of the _ batt cable.. As long as my connections are clean it should work fine and keep things simple at the battery.

the FH008 is from a 07-09 CBR600RR
 
On the 750ES I was able to remove the connectors from the stock plug, peel back the loom a couple of inches & re-wrap. That way I can use the 100% stock wiring straight into the FET in the planned new location....

I think the only thing I'm going to do is add an additional direct ground to the battery then.

Dan :)
 
salty_monk said:
On the 750ES I was able to remove the connectors from the stock plug, peel back the loom a couple of inches & re-wrap. That way I can use the 100% stock wiring straight into the FET in the planned new location....

I think the only thing I'm going to do is add an additional direct ground to the battery then.

Dan :)
Click to expand...

Since all the current flowing out of the (+) Red R/R output returns back to the (-) Black R/R ground, it is best to ground the R/R (-) to the frame at a point as close as practical to the R/R. If the R/R looses a frame ground it will smoke your loom as that will be the only way the current has to get back to the R/R (-). After that goes you smoke your R/R and stator.
 
The new RR sits straight in front of the battery. I can get a frame ground in really close if I go to the fusebox plate (but that is rubber mounted) or to the old airbox mount (says 2-3" of wire) or a direct to battery ground within about 10" of wire max.

I may go for an RR to fusebox plate to Battery or RR to Airbox mount to battery as it seems a good spot to add another frame ground from the battery. I always try to add at least one extra from the battery to the frame if possible.

Dan :)
 
You're grounded!

You're grounded!

+1 on the adding of extra/better grounds.

I used a stainless flat 1" wide, by 8" long, wire weave grounding strap from battery -ve to the frame where the R/R ground is. Then another one from the same frame ground, to the engine.
 
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