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Fixing Knackered up shock mount threads

chuck hahn

Forum LongTimer
Past Site Supporter
Came out from lunch today and noticed the acorn nut was missing on the left side of the Cooley.



And how I fixed the situation. Took about an hour to complete.

First was cut off the bad threads with the cut off wheel


Then center drilled the core of the mount stud. Used a 5/16 bit.


Found a bolt that was the same thread, cut the head off, and ground the shank down till it fit snuggly into the hole in the mount. Made two opposing slits with the cut off wheel in the mount for a place to get into the new stud and be sure it was welded in good and solid.





MIG welded into the slots and secured the new threads.



Cleaned up the welds with the die grinder and a double cut carbide burr





Installed shock back onto the mount..



 
It sagged a little when the heat hit it but its there, its solid, and no one sees anything with the shock and acorn on so its not an issue to me. Its just a write up for suggestive purposes to others anyway.
 
its crooked why bother? if its worth doing, do it right.
why take pictures of a hack job? let alone post them on the internet,
delete this thread before it's too late....
 
It will be there 20 years from now when I cant ride anymore. Never claimed it was "perfection".
 
I thought it was a interesting idea and it does the job.
 
I had an old brake pad carrier out of a front brake caliper that I tried to run a die down for a some extra thread length but its too hardened. With that, the plan was to just drill clean through the frame and set the entire new stud in and plug weld it from under the seat. Then I made due with what i had so I could keep riding the bike. I know a guy at work that has a lathe and I may take some measurements and have him spin up a few sets of full lentgh..one piece...studs.

But that wont be for a while yet. This may be one of my winter projects to tackle.
 
There isnt that much side to side force on a shock..its mostly vertacle pressure as the shock does its thing. Thats why I drilled the center out small so to preserve the post the shock goes on as much as possible ( for strength reasons ). Who give a crap if the ground down area of the weld looks rough, its out of sight once the shock is remounted is my take on it.

Soon as I get with my buddy Jimmy and have him lathe me some new posts, I will most likely drill the entire thing out and plug weld the new post in place from the inner frame side. But for right now its fixed, solid, and the bike is again rideable.

The post was just show a possible way to repair a stud and if they want to smart off then thats fine.
 
I did a similar repair with a M10 stud turned down on one end to M8, drilled and tapped the shock mount and thread locked it in. Like you say only vertical loading on there.
 
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