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Float pins and spark plug question??

  • Thread starter Thread starter jmbpainting
  • Start date Start date
J

jmbpainting

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How the heck do I get to my float pins to clean them? Is it possible to do without taking the carbs off the bike?

What would be the best tool/approach to changing my spark plugs? Would rather not screw things up and cross threads while inserting new plugs.
Obviously a standard spark plug socket won't fit my ngk d8ea plugs. And I'm no mechanic by any means. But obviously Its not a difficult task. Just thought I'd ask for help before I made an attempt.

The bike is an 81 Gs750L

Thanks in advance!!:-D
 
Float pins act as the hinge for the float...which is inside the float chamber (bowl) of the carb...which means that, unless you have a VERY unique carb, you'll need to remove the float chamber to get to the float and pin. To do that, it is likely that you'll need to remove the carbs to gain better access to the float bowls. Having said all that...

Why do you think your float pins need to be cleaned? :shock:


As far as the spark plugs go, you'll need a spark plug socket that matches in size to your plugs hex size. For the D8EA plugs, I believe you'll need an 18 mm socket. You may also want to consider using universal joints, extensions, wobbly extensions of some combination thereof to facilitate best access to the plug with the socket.
 
I spoke with a felow GS'r who i met on this site and he suggested it. The tank has some rust but its not "too bad". I just installed a new petcock today, and hopefully plugs tom. When I try to start the bike it will run fro about 5 seconds with the choke on then cut out. It has good spark, but its just fuel starved. I was told the float pins are probably stuck and that the bike is probably flooding as a result. I'm just going by what I've read and heard. That being said, I sat on it the other day after sitting outside for the day in the sun and she fired right up??? I'm so frigging confused with this bike!! It won't fire up in my shed but sitting outside in the sun fixed the problem. Nevermind that I've got to clear up some electrical issues but need it to run in order to do so. I can't win. I'm going to find out how bullet proof these motors really are if you know what I mean?
 
Your carb's may indeed need cleaning, but the float pins are probably the least of your worries. The float hinge sits very loosely on the pins. More likely, the float needle, jets or other small passages will be in worse shape in a dirty carb.

As a general rule, if it starts with choke on, it is more likely fuel starved, and not flooded. My motto with carbs is "When in doubt, clean them out".
 
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I find the best tool so far for installing new spark plugs is your hand... I thread the plugs ONLY by hand untill i need to use my torque wrench to tighten them.
 
jmbpainting, if the bike is acting fuel starved, how does it follow that the floats are stuck open and flooding the carbs?

I would tend to agree with denydog. It's probably not a float pin issue, but it could easily be something else in the carbs. Either way, open 'em up and clean 'em well. You'll either solve the problem or elminate them as part of the problem.
 
Nightmare said:
I find the best tool so far for installing new spark plugs is your hand... I thread the plugs ONLY by hand untill i need to use my torque wrench to tighten them.
Click to expand...

Good point. However, on my bike at least, I find that using tools to extend my reach (for ex: socket and extenstions WITHOUT the ratchet) helps me quite a bit. This is even more helpful if trying to change plugs, especially the inside plugs, without fully removing the gas tank.
 
So clean the carbs and it should do the trick. Anybody want to swap a carb cleaning for some painting LOL!

How long can I go on a good carb cleaning? I read somewhere that it costs around $300 for a cleaning at a shop? I can't afford to have these things cleaned once a year.
 
Before going into a total carb rebuild, let me suggest pulling the carbs, taking the bowls off and see if there's any fine rust in there. I had some rust in my tank and the carb bowls were full of fine rust. I cleaned out the bowls and she runs much better now.
 
As JTsGS650 said, before you go to a shop, take a peek into the float chambers yourself. Getting that far is not difficult (once you've pulled the carbs) and while you're there you can inspect the jets as well. There's a very good write or "how to" on carb cleanup on this site:

http://www.thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm

This write up is on a different model carb but it is a very good reference for our carbs as well.
 
To install plugs, a 4-6" piece of vacuum line stuck on the small end will help EXTEND your reach and you can thread it in with your fingers.
 
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