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forks stuck down

  • Thread starter Thread starter jprice90
  • Start date Start date
Bent forks. Prop the frame on something to take all weight off the front end. Then pull on or wait for the forks to go the max extension. Or while you are waiting, start taking everything apart (you're going to need to anyway). Front wheel, fender brace, and then triples. See which, if any, allows the sliders to loosen up. Only THEN remove the fork caps. You do not want to try to remove a cap with the spring compressed because even if the fork seems "lazy", the problem may be binding in the tube or bearings, and the spring may be under a lot of compression. You might launch the fork cap across the room and ruin its first/last threads.
 
Guys your all missing the point in where he says he can bring them up..... and he can compress them as well, there is no resistance either up or down based on the OP's remarks

I really don't think there are springs in his forks

.
 
thanks for all the input guys, i've been a little busy with work and I'm still tinkering with these nasty carbs, absolutely disgusting. Anyway, I told someone about this and they said bent forks. but im not sure thats true because I can sit on the bike, push and pull on the bars and the shocks move but stay down. I'm going to work more on it this weekend, unload the frontend and pop the forks out
 
Whatever packing pieces were in there might have been removed or the springs might be extremely tired and just ancient. Who knows what a PO did to it.
 
if I order springs from sonicsprings, what size should I get? Just looking for either stock feeling, or possibly a little better handling
 
Ask Rich Desmond, he is a member here on this forum, he owns Sonic Springs and is a helpful guy.
 
Didn't think i would see this one popping up again. Four months and counting for shocks. Is there someone down there that can give him a hand?
 
I pulled the caps as the manual said, and no valves.
Guessing someone did screw with them at one time
 
Does your forks have a hex type cap or is it hollow with a circlip?

My sons '85 700 has the latter and you will have to press the cap into the tube to remove the clip. You may need help as that can be a real bugger to do by yourself if you don't have a shop press.

If it is a hex type that you can put a wrench on, then break the cap loose before you loosen the triple tree pinch bolts that holds the tube. Don't undo the cap in the tree, just loosen it a turn or two.

Once they are out you can support the base of your fork in a vise where the axle goes through or depending on the fork, the brake caliper mount. Where ever it give the most hold and support.(use some cloth to lessen chance of scratching your fork)

Then hold the cap, while turning the fork tube. This allows you to have the cap firmly in hand at all times, preventing possible flyaway. Some fork have a lot of spring tension and some hardly any.

This also works reinstalling the cap and lessens the chance of cross threading the cap. What leads to cross threading, is usually uneven pressure on the cap. It's easier to raise the tube to the cap and turn, than trying to push down and turn the cap at the same time.

TIP: turn the fork the opposite way till you hear the threads click, then tighten. The beginning of the inner and outer threads meeting is what will click. Less chances of cross threading that way and this trick also works great when installing spark plugs.
 
gsrick said:
TIP: turn the fork the opposite way till you hear the threads click, then tighten. The beginning of the inner and outer threads meeting is what will click. Less chances of cross threading that way and this trick also works great when installing spark plugs.
Click to expand...
Even BETTER tip:
Before installing the preload spacer on top of the spring, install the cap, but only turn it a couple of turns. Use a Sharpie marker, place a mark on the cap. Slowly rotate the fork tube until it falls away from the cap, note where the mark on the cap was when it let go. Put a mark at that location on the tube. When you re-assemble with the preload spacer in place, just rotate the marks away from each other a few degrees (about 1/8 turn), when you start to turn the tube to install the cap, your first turn will grab threads. :encouragement:

.
 
Maybe if you don't accidentally wipe or smear the mark on the chrome plated tubes. :friendly_wink: Sharpie markers need a porous surface to hold onto. Some masking tape around the top of the tube will help with that.
 
My sons 700 is a US model, but the manual show forks with standard style fork caps.
 
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