From Basscliff Site, Hmmm.

[Qdude]

Found this in the BassCliff website on Brake bleeding

Sometimes it seems like no matter how much you bleed the system (especially the front brakes), the
brake lever just doesn't feel right when you are done. When this happens, pull the lever all the way in
and tie it in that position (using a piece of string, a shoelace, whatever) and leave it like that overnight.
Most every time, when you come back to it the next day and undo your tied string or shoelace and
release the lever, your brakes will feel excellent!
Thank you

Anyone have any idea why this may be the case?

 

[salty_monk]

The pressure seems to somehow help any "micro" air bubbles form into decent sized ones & work their way up to the master cylinder.....

Works on Car brakes too, lump of wood between seat & pedal required there

 

[Turtleface]

Found this in the BassCliff website on Brake bleeding

Sometimes it seems like no matter how much you bleed the system (especially the front brakes), the
brake lever just doesn't feel right when you are done. When this happens, pull the lever all the way in
and tie it in that position (using a piece of string, a shoelace, whatever) and leave it like that overnight.
Most every time, when you come back to it the next day and undo your tied string or shoelace and
release the lever, your brakes will feel excellent!
Thank you

Anyone have any idea why this may be the case?

A LOT of air can get trapped in the master cylinder. It's also very hard to get out. When you pull the lever in and hold pressure on it via a bungee or string, it forces out the air from the master cylinder. It takes a long amount of time due to the tiny, tiny orifices that the air bubbles have to be forced through.

 

[Turtleface]

The pressure seems to somehow help any "micro" air bubbles form into decent sized ones & work their way up to the master cylinder.....

Works on Car brakes too, lump of wood between seat & pedal required there

How do you guys do the rear brake? I was considering a bungee setup from the centerstand to the pedal, but I don't think I can get the angles right to put enough pressure on the pedal to do any good. Feels pretty good as is, but I'm always looking for improvement when it comes to braking on these great old bikes.

 

[salty_monk]

Put a long bolt in the "stop" at the back of the pedal shaft & wind it on....

 

[spyug]

You guys have to invest in a Mity Vac. Vacuum pump is the only way to bleed brakes with no fuss or muss. Been struggling with brake bleeding for 40+ years but picking up the pump a few years ago sorted that out in a hurry. Now I can do brakes in 10 minutes or less.

The big advantage I find is you can do them single handed and with the speed and ease it encourages you to do them more frequently. It seems with bike brakes they don't get looked at often enough resulting in gunky fluid and rust in the bores and on pistons. Every new to me old bike has suffered from these symptoms but changing the fluid every season sorts that out.

They are not that expensive anymore and really well worth the investment. I love mine.

Cheers all,
Spyug

 

[jwhelan65]

You guys have to invest in a Mity Vac. Vacuum pump is the only way to bleed brakes with no fuss or muss. Been struggling with brake bleeding for 40+ years but picking up the pump a few years ago sorted that out in a hurry. Now I can do brakes in 10 minutes or less.

The big advantage I find is you can do them single handed and with the speed and ease it encourages you to do them more frequently. It seems with bike brakes they don't get looked at often enough resulting in gunky fluid and rust in the bores and on pistons. Every new to me old bike has suffered from these symptoms but changing the fluid every season sorts that out.

They are not that expensive anymore and really well worth the investment. I love mine.

Cheers all,
Spyug

+1 on the Mighty Vac, makes for short work.

 

[Turtleface]

I picked one up, works pretty well. I still like to put the levers under pressure for a day or two while I'm working on other bits. Every little bit helps, and I'm pretty sure it won't hurt.

 

[terrylee]

+ from me on mighty vac. also. Spent an hour or more trying to bleed new front brake set up, bought vac. and was done in 10-15 mins. with great lever! terrylee

 

[Turtleface]

+ from me on mighty vac. also. Spent an hour or more trying to bleed new front brake set up, bought vac. and was done in 10-15 mins. with great lever! terrylee

The only problem I ran on with was a problem with pulling air into the system through the bleeder screws. Teflon tape on the bleeder screws took care of that. That and I accidentally pulled brake fluid into the pump itself, which caused the piston to become sticky in it's bore, but it's completely rebuildable, so I was able to just take it all apart, wash it down, and put it back together. Voila! Works like new again.

 

[koolaid_kid]

If you get a mityvac, get the metal one. A bit harder to find than the plastic one, a bit more expensive, but easier to use, more versatile, and rebuildable. I have used both, and the metal one (I have the MV8500, ~$50 on fleabay) is far superior. It will also provide pressure if you need it (I do lots o' automotive and boost work, so it comes in handy for me).
Just my two cents worth.

 

[SVSooke]

Nobody bleeds banjo bolts here? you do it mostly the same as bleeding at the calipers but at the master cylinder banjo bolt.Squeeze ,open bolt ,close and release.Could not get my old GS650E 's brakes to fell right till I did this.O yeah,make sure you have a rag under the bolt to catch the fliud.Works every time for me.

 

[Guest]

I tried that method off basscliff's site and it worked. Zip tied it off overnight and they work great.