Front and Rear Turn Signal Gong Show

[Jhoot]

Hey all,

So today I decided to change out my turn signals as the casings are a bit broken (although they work). I bought some universal mini stalk indicators from Bikemaster and set about putting them on (they are bulbs not LED). I changed out the rear two with no issues and found that they both worked along with the OEM front indicators.

I have now pulled off the headlight and switched out the first front indicator with the new one. It didnt work at first so I switched the two wires around, but still no luck. Both the front and rear just stay on and don't flash on the left side, right side (mix of OEM and new) still works fine.

Feeling somewhat dejected I put the old OEM indicator back on, only to find that it now does the same...and will no longer flash. Taking a short break, then heading back out but would love some pointers or things to look out for.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Jhoot]

Yes sorry its a 1982 gs1100g. And yes I think you have nailed it there. I noticed the 3rd wire that leads to ground, and yes the front indicators are also running lights. So do you think I will need to buy new indicators that are dual filament or perhaps disconnect one of the wires that would make them act as running lights?

Also quick update, after a break I re-connected the OEM indicator and it works fine (phew) so must have just been my frustration getting in the way!

Others will chime in I think. So, while you are waiting, couple of thoughts. Helpful too if folks know the bike you working on here.

Have you compared the front stock light bulb to the bulb in your new units? In the dark here...but if your machine (originally) has the front signals that are also running lights, bulbs are a dual filament.. there are the 2 wires directly to the bulb socket and a 3rd wire that is connected to the signal assembly mounting stud/bolt/rod and nut assembly that is the ground..... rear lights are single filament....

 

[Guest]

Don't swear by this, as I'm not an EE, but the units you are attaching may not be providing enough of a draw or resistance. We have that problem withinstalling LED lights. There is not enough draw or resistance to make the flasher activate. You may need to install a 100 ohm resister in the circuit. I've had to do this a few years ago before with a V-Star at work.

 

[Redman]

You say the new lights are not LED, but they maybe smaller and less wattage so draw less current. And sounds like not enough current to operate the stock flasher unit.

I forget the specific wattage of the stock bulbs, but there are other bulbs that are the same size but with slightly less wattage that make the stock flasher operate slower. If your new signals are lot smaller and lot less wattage then the flasher is not going to flash.

 

[Jhoot]

That is possible as they are quite a bit smaller. The rear new lights do flash, and the front ones turn on (running lights) but dont flash. I will open up the stock signals and check the wattage. Hoping either ditching a wire for the front running lights will work, or just buying something new at the correct wattage. Fortunately, these 4 didn't cost much and I've already learned a ton! Thanks all of the responses, will try again tomorrow.

You say the new lights are not LED, but they maybe smaller and less wattage so draw less current. And sounds like not enough current to operate the stock flasher unit.

I forget the specific wattage of the stock bulbs, but there are other bulbs that are the same size but with slightly less wattage that make the stock flasher operate slower. If your new signals are lot smaller and lot less wattage then the flasher is not going to flash.

 

[Steve]

The rear new lights do flash, and the front ones turn on (running lights) but dont flash.

I'm sorry, but that does NOT compute. :-k

If the rear lights flash, the front ones HAVE to flash, as they are connected together. It's possible for one side to flash, and not the other, but the front and rear lights on the same side of the bike will ALWAYS do the same thing.

.

 

[Guest]

I'm sorry, but that does NOT compute. :-k

If the rear lights flash, the front ones HAVE to flash, as they are connected together. It's possible for one side to flash, and not the other, but the front and rear lights on the same side of the bike will ALWAYS do the same thing.

.

Not if he has single filament bulbs and hooked them up to the running light wires instead of the flasher wires. There are three wires in front, but only two in the rear.

 

[Jhoot]

Ya, and I feel that because the rear new flashers worked along with the OEM in the front that wattage etc maybe isn't an issue?

I've opened up the headlight again this morning but no luck. Disconnected what I thought was ground (ring connector attached to the frame where the signal bolts in) and then tried the combinations of attaching the connectors from the new flashers to the connectors I unplugged the OEM flashers from inside the headlight.

Best result I've gotten is the front and rear will alternate being on (but not flashing) when I flip the turn signal control. This to me means maybe I have not disconnected ground?

Not if he has single filament bulbs and hooked them up to the running light wires instead of the flasher wires. There are three wires in front, but only two in the rear.

 

[Steve]

Since you are starting with aftermarket lights, all bets are off, but there are some general assumptions that can be made.

How many wires are on the new signal lights? If there is only one, they must ground through the mount. If there are two, one will be power, the other will be ground. If they are incandescent lights, it probably won't matter which is which, but do a continuity check between each wire and the mount, just to be sure.

One of the problems with aftermarket signals is that they use smaller bulbs that draw less current. The problem is that the flasher unit needs to see a minimum amount of current for it to operate correctly. With the stock front signals and the new rear signals in place, you might have been right at that minimum current. Now that you have installed a lower-current signal on the front, they will light up, but will not flash.

Since you have an 1100G, you have self-cancelling turn signals. It will NOT be a simple matter of swapping out the flasher unit to an electronic one that will flash with the lower current. Well, yes, you can swap it out, but you will lose the self-cancel feature, unless you do some creative electrical magic. Even with the electronic flasher, you will have to do some re-wiring to get it to work.

What was wrong with the stock signals? :-k

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[Jhoot]

Thanks, ya that makes sense and is really the only explanation left it seems, great point about why it worked with the OEM front signals still installed! The aftermarket signals have two wires. My OEM signals are basically held together by tape as the bike was dropped sometime in its past. They work but look pretty awful.

Do you have any advice for how I can find out what amps/wattage etc I will need for replacements?

Thanks again all for the help, this forum is quite an amazing resource!

 

[Steve]

I think the factory specs call for 23-watt bulbs, but the typical #1156 bulb is so much more available, and it's 27 watts.

Not sure what type of bulb you have in your new signals, can't say whether there might be a version of that bulb that draws a little more power to satisfy the flasher.

Or, you could just go back to stock-looking signals. You can get some at Parts-n-More that look original but are less than one third of the cost. If you are keeping a stock theme on the bike, that is the way that I would go. If you are looking for something a bit more "custom", there are ways, but it might cost nearly as much money, time and effort.

.

 

[salty_monk]

I had a set that did that. Switched to an electronic flasher that wasn't load sensitive & it sorted it out....

 

[Steve]

I had a set that did that. Switched to an electronic flasher that wasn't load sensitive & it sorted it out....

That works well, as long as you are willing to give up the self-cancelling feature, if the bike is so equipped.

.

 

[Guest]

I am actually working on this issue with my 79 gs750. Bought aftermarket signals that look like smaller versions of the oem. They are unfortunately 10w instead of the oem 23w, so solid on, no blinky blink.

Found this electronic relay that I think might work. Any input before I pull the trigger?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009PKE3C2/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A3I5DUI6YQ6S3O&psc=1

 

[Steve]

Does your 750 have self-cancelling signals?

If it does, I don't think that flasher will work.

If it does not, it might.

.

 

[Guest]

I am actually working on this issue with my 79 gs750. Bought aftermarket signals that look like smaller versions of the oem. They are unfortunately 10w instead of the oem 23w, so solid on, no blinky blink.

Found this electronic relay that I think might work. Any input before I pull the trigger?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009PKE3C2/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A3I5DUI6YQ6S3O&psc=1

Yeah find a Radio Shack that's still around and buy two of these. Put one on each circuit, R&L side in parallel. This is what is needed when installing LED turns and should work for low watt bulbs. Cut a very small slit in the package to remove it, that way if it doesn't work you can return them.

 

[Guest]

Does your 750 have self-cancelling signals?

If it does, I don't think that flasher will work.

If it does not, it might.

.

My 79 does not have auto-cancel turn signals. Looks to be very similar in size and shape to OEM.

Yeah find a Radio Shack that's still around and buy two of these. Put one on each circuit, R&L side in parallel. This is what is needed when installing LED turns and should work for low watt bulbs. Cut a very small slit in the package to remove it, that way if it doesn't work you can return them.

I was originally going that direction with the resistors. The electronic relay was actually cheaper here as I would have to mail order for the resistors, and no radio shack or similar around anymore.