• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Front brake switch problems?

  • Thread starter Thread starter NE750E
  • Start date Start date
N

NE750E

Guest
OK, let?s see if I can describe this without using the word thingy.

While doing my spring inspection I discovered that applying my front brake lever does not illuminate the brake light. Applying the rear break pedal works as it should. I removed the two screws holding the electrical components beneath the front brake lever to find nothing inside. Apparently there is supposed to be a spring and a small metal,? thingy inside. Does anyone know where or if I can get all the necessary components to get this switch working correctly? Or is there a way to jerry rig this switch?
 
I have extras for a '78 750...

I have extras for a '78 750...

Let me get mine working and I'll pass along what's left over.
Give me a day or two.
 
The CRC2 link appears to be out of stock.

GEORGEFIX'S MOTORCYCLE PARTS is a very reliable eBay seller and a good source for new GS replacement parts. It's been my experience that if you bid on an item at the opening bid, bid no more and are outbid, he will send you an email offering the part at the opening bid price. Since he has plenty of these replacement parts like front brake switches, he is smart and doesn't want to lose a sale. Shipping is fast and is only $2.00 for the brake switch, which is extra low (especially for eBay).
 
GET the hyd switch works great. Put one on my 850 last year
 
I've bought switches, petcocks and gaskets from Georgefix and I'm perfectly happy.
 
Suzuki still sell them here in the UK as a whole set rather than peices. The small plastic mushroom (best way to describe it) has a small spring plus a bent peice of copper plate at the top which makes the connections to the flat peice of material (don't know what it's made of) that has the two electrical connectors and the wires.

The major problem comes when you try and put the mushroom part into the brake lever. If you get it in the wrong whole/slot on first operation it shears the bl**dy thing off.

To adjust you loosen the two retaining screws and slide the cables and connections till you get contact and rear light.

On the GS1000 I get a bit of aluminium dust/corrosion that fouls up the connections so ever few months have to clean the whole unit.

Suzuki Mad
1981 GS1000ET
1983 GS(X)1100ESD
2002 GSF1200K1
 
Last edited:
This Suzuki front brake switch arrangement is best described as a relic from the STONE AGE.

I mean, the whole idea of having a plastic thingy with a copper clip over the end, that sits in a hole on the lever and slides across a couple of contacts that are, basically, exposed to the weather is... DAFT. ](*,)

Get rid of it, any way you can.
 
I say find a better one......I have replaced all of the stupid thingIE on all my GS's over the years....I'm switching to this!
http://www.dual-star.com/index2/Conversion/Brake%20Light%20Switch.htm

I bought and installed a similiar hydraulic switch after spending a total of an hour or two chasing small parts around the garage and fiddling around trying to put the stock one back together.

It cost a few bucks at Dennis Kirk, ($17.99 at http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/produ...ain&catId=&productId=p210370&leafCatId=&mmyId= ) but you install it and forget it forever.
 
I see the logic in the hydraulic switch, but where do you install it? I don't see any extra fittings on the brake line. Would I need an adapter of sorts to make the connection? This sounds like the way to go, and the price is not bad.

Thanks for the input everyone, as usual this site rocks because of the people.
 
My 750 had a similar problem. While all the parts were there, for a while, the plastic 'mushroom' was cracked. It wasn't until I hear of it's existence here that I even knew I had a front brake light switch. But, of course, when I did realize it was there and went to disassemble it, all the little important parts went everywhere. IE.. lost.

That being said, her's my tip if you decide to replace the missing parts. Loosen the brake handle and rotate it 180 degrees. This way you are able to actually see what you are doing. Get everything together and then adjust the switch. It's just a matter of loosening the 'mushroom' screws and moving it slightly in either direction.

Brad bt
 
I see the logic in the hydraulic switch, but where do you install it? I don't see any extra fittings on the brake line. Would I need an adapter of sorts to make the connection? This sounds like the way to go, and the price is not bad.

Thanks for the input everyone, as usual this site rocks because of the people.

It replaces the bolt.

I need one.
 
OK, let?s see if I can describe this without using the word thingy.

While doing my spring inspection I discovered that applying my front brake lever does not illuminate the brake light. Applying the rear break pedal works as it should. I removed the two screws holding the electrical components beneath the front brake lever to find nothing inside. Apparently there is supposed to be a spring and a small metal,? thingy inside. Does anyone know where or if I can get all the necessary components to get this switch working correctly? Or is there a way to jerry rig this switch?

I just bought the plastic piece that slides back and forth by the action of the brake lever from Suzuki for $2.25. Included spring and metal piece that makes contact inside switch. Took about 10 minutes to get back together.
 
That being said, her's my tip if you decide to replace the missing parts. Loosen the brake handle and rotate it 180 degrees. This way you are able to actually see what you are doing. Get everything together and then adjust the switch. It's just a matter of loosening the 'mushroom' screws and moving it slightly in either direction.

Brad bt

Sounds like a great tip but I wonder......is there the possibility of getting air into the brake line when inverting the master cylinder or no?
 
Sounds like a great tip but I wonder......is there the possibility of getting air into the brake line when inverting the master cylinder or no?


Yes.
I did that very thing.

Try not to squeeze the handle when inverted.
 
After evicting a spider and cleaning up the contacts the operation was a success! Thanks.
 
I put a big glob of dielectric grease in there when cleaning my brake light switch. I'm hoping that'll keep the nasties and corrosion out.
 
Sounds like a great tip but I wonder......is there the possibility of getting air into the brake line when inverting the master cylinder or no?
Yes, possible, but no problem. Bleeding takes about 3 minutes. It's good to flush clean fluid through every so often anyway.
 
Back
Top