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front end is weaving

  • Thread starter Thread starter scrapper
  • Start date Start date
You have little experience, and have changed many things without using the proper manual or the proper tools. The bike handled funny at low speeds, and you took it to 70 mph. Unless you slow down and do things methodically and carefully, you may hurt yourself quite badly.

GET. A. SHOP. MANUAL! (search the forum for threads on who prefers what, and where to get them. One might be available on-line.)

Read it and follow the instructions.

Get a torque wrench. Actually, you'll need two torque wrenches, for low and high torque. Again, search for threads on sources and types.

You didn't say who changed your tires. A properly balanced wheel will usually have only one weight, and never more than two. Search the forum for threads, or take the wheel and tire to a dealer and have them do it.

You could have put Progressive springs in your forks, but cut them down. It would have been very easy to have cut the springs differently. Big problem. Unless you can prove that the springs are now identical, they should be replaced.

And so on. Do one thing at a time, and do it carefully.
 
Sounds like you are also bolting things up the wrong way! You need to go top down... Axle is last!

Dan :)
 
Okay, didn't relize I had been so bad? Just got the forks apart and everything looks fine? Spacers and springs are the same.Wheel bearing seem very tight, and spining ok. I went to store and got a torque wrench, one will have to do for now, will keep looking at everything everyone mentioned. Will work on it more tomorrow.I have a manual and do read it. It is alot of info on here to digest, know I am going to make mistakes. That is why I ask questions. I seem to remember somewhere someone was talking about tightening the front end from the bottom up. I am going to read up some more on the clymers book tonight to make sure it goes smoother. :-s Thanks for the help so far.
 
The front jumping side to side sounds like loose steering bearings
 
:?:
You cut down the fork springs why?:confused:

Put in fork oil or ATF or hydraulic oil, they will not foam like engine oil will.

Check the fork bearings and the tubes to see if the sliders are ok.

Check the front wheel bearings.

Check the rear swing arm bearings.

You cut down the fork springs? Again why?
 
Clone said:
:?:
You cut down the fork springs why?:confused:

Put in fork oil or ATF or hydraulic oil, they will not foam like engine oil will.

Check the fork bearings and the tubes to see if the sliders are ok.

Check the front wheel bearings.

Check the rear swing arm bearings.

You cut down the fork springs? Again why?
Click to expand...
I think the attempt was made to stiffen sacked springs...it will work to a point, but you have to use spacers to make up the difference. And, we're only talking A coil or MAYBE two...beyond that, you're playing with fire IMO...
 
You live in a large enough city - just go down to a bike shop and buy fork oil.

Don't mess around with ATF or mixing anything - what's the point?

Remember, it's hydraulic fluid and not motor oil - they are two different things

Then, carefully reassemble your front end, starting with the head bearings

Don't be afraid to ask more questions - some members have a tendency to wander from the subject matter in their answers

And go to BassCliff's site and see if he has a shop manual for you.
 
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Ok, I got it back together and went for a small test drive. It seems ok now. It was the oil or the bearings in the head. I changed it to atf. I think it was the bearings the lock ring was loose. I torqued everything though. I was wondering if I did this right or wrong? I put the forks up in the head lightly tighted the top pich bolts to hold them in place. I then tightened the lock ring a little and then torqued the bolt then tighten the ring a little more, the front end turned really easy no problems. I then tighten the forks from the top down. Checked tire and it was spining straight. I did not notice any play in any parts. cuting the springs down and putting the spacers in seems to have stiffened the front end which is what I wanted.It does not hop on big bumps. I made sure to hit a really rough road no problems. I did not break any teeth off either. I am wondering about one thing which is the lock ring I did not find in the manual but I did think was correct to tighten it down not up. I wanted to check to make sure.It is a lock nut so I guess it could be used one way or the other to lock it. The rubber piece is why I'm asking. I would think you would want to lock it to a piece of metal not against the rubber ring or washer.Thank you all for helping , I don't mind the constructive critizism. It helps keep me on my toes.
 
I am wondering about the oil thing,I work in a scrap yard and we run a couple of hydraulic cranes that run on motor oil instead of hydraulic oil. They do not have any problems with foaming. The cranes are similar, and work just as good. I am thinking the tech manual of one of the hydraulic cranes has a table if you want to change it over to motor oil, . I was always under the impression that it would not work.I guess alot of places just run motor oil because it is cheaper to have only one kind of oil, they buy in bulk. I not trying to start an arguement but I have read in the forum alot of people seem to run alot of different stuff?
 
scrapper said:
I am wondering about the oil thing,I work in a scrap yard and we run a couple of hydraulic cranes that run on motor oil instead of hydraulic oil. They do not have any problems with foaming. The cranes are similar, and work just as good. I am thinking the tech manual of one of the hydraulic cranes has a table if you want to change it over to motor oil, . I was always under the impression that it would not work.I guess alot of places just run motor oil because it is cheaper to have only one kind of oil, they buy in bulk. I not trying to start an arguement but I have read in the forum alot of people seem to run alot of different stuff?
Click to expand...

You're right about that - essentially, they are all oils - ATF , hydraulic fluid, motor oil. They just have some different properties


Glad to see you solved your problem - steering head bearings can cause some bad handling issues
 
Just remember that if anyone on here seemed a little overbearing it is only because they are concerned for your safety! That's #1 on here. If you are thinking at all that there might still be something wrong with your front end, ask to see who's in your area and there is probably someone fairly close who could meet up with you sometime and give it a good going over to see if they can find anything. It never hurts to ask for help in person.
 
I still need to adjust the valves on it but am wanting to try to make it to a couple of meet and greets. I realize that safety is important and do not think people are being mean just to be mean. I have read alot about the springs and front forks, I understand the basics of how suspensions work. I didn't just say I 'm going to chop up the bike. It was cheap and right now that is good and like I said I havent smacked teeth together or got off with whiplash yet. :D Like I said before Thank you all very much. It is running pretty good not perfect but it is almost there. I will just keep chugging along.
 
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