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front fork assembly details emulators

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
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G

Guest

Guest
Hi all,

1983 GS1100 ESD.

Assembling my forks tonight, all new rubber and replaceables, anti-dive block off plate WITH flow path, racetech emulators, racetech springs. Couple of questions:

thread locker where and color? I know the damper rod bolt gets it?

racetech emulators: i got a deal on these, when i got them they had 4+ turns on the spring. I backed them off, then reset them to 3 turns in, but it is "about " a turn and a half looser than they came. Consequently, the lock nut JUST engages the nylon part, rednering the "lock" part of this nut irrelevant. So....locktite here too? Planning on calling racetech on monday.

Fork oil level for guys that have done the emulator mod? I have 10 weight oil which seems to be the consensus on what is best.


Thanks for the help,

greg
 
greg78gs750 said:
Hi all,

1983 GS1100 ESD.

Assembling my forks tonight, all new rubber and replaceables, anti-dive block off plate WITH flow path, racetech emulators, racetech springs. Couple of questions:

thread locker where and color? I know the damper rod bolt gets it?

racetech emulators: i got a deal on these, when i got them they had 4+ turns on the spring. I backed them off, then reset them to 3 turns in, but it is "about " a turn and a half looser than they came. Consequently, the lock nut JUST engages the nylon part, rednering the "lock" part of this nut irrelevant. So....locktite here too? Planning on calling racetech on monday.

Fork oil level for guys that have done the emulator mod? I have 10 weight oil which seems to be the consensus on what is best.


Thanks for the help,

greg
Click to expand...

I do Blue Locktite for forks

I recall the reco is only 2 1/2 for sporty street. You might even back off 1/4

pull out the springs, push the forks all the way up measure level as per manual.

If you are light 160 lbs then 10 wt, if you are heavier line 220lbs, then 15 weight


The discussion
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=822982&postcount=21


My final configuration
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=861452&postcount=33
 
Last edited:
Does it matter if there is a flow path through the anti dive block off plates if you are using a cartridge emulator?
 
That is my understanding as well, but the capitalized "WITH" in the original post of this thread has me second guessing.
I think as long as the the damper rods are drilled above the oil lock cup the oil will not flow through the anti-dive valve passages and will flow through the emulator.
 
The manual specifies fork oil level is to be measured WITHOUT the fork springs.
 
i have really tried to grok how the emulator/anti-dive thing works. yes, drilling the damper rods essentially makes the bottom 4 holes on the stock rod obsolete. BUT, as i understand things, more flow into the damper rod is better than less, in that it lets the damper rod holes have less effect on the damping, putting more responsibility on the emulator. a flow path may not strictly be necessary, but it can't hurt.

A bigger question for me was whether the "oil lock cup" and "wave washers" could be deleted entirely. From what i can tell, they both are related to the anti-dive...though i cant find this actually stated anywhere. I am leaving them in, i guess, but i cant see that they are needed for anything. If someone can drop some knowledge on me on what they actually DO in there, i am all ears.

yes, bwringer, my understanding is that oil level is measured with springs out.

i am not assembling for a bit, if anyone has anymore input.

greg
 
I drilled below and above, use 10wt oil and have no flow path on block-off plates. 2 turns on the emulators. Works very nicely...

With the 1100 forks it doesn't really matter if you use 10w oil even if heavier as the compression damping can be adjusted on the emulator and the rebound damping can be adjusted on the fork (yes those adjusters still work post emulator fit). I have the rebound adjusters on position 2. I'm 165lb.
 
I don't think I will delete the oil lock as "normal" forks still have something similar, sometimes called a bottoming cone.
What would be the perceived advantage ,if any, of deleting the oil lock?
 
i just dont know what it does in there. i don't plan to delete it, just wondering what it does. advantage would be increased simplicity. moot point, since it is staying in.

Anyone know if the thick washer goes under or over the oil seal? i think it goes under.

Progress on this has been painfully slow, even for me. between work and home (3 kids under 4) i have trouble finding energy to make it off the couch, let alone fight the mosquitos in the garage. i need some motivation in a pill...maybe i can bum an adderall off a kid at work....ha.

i ended up getting slightly longer screws for the emulators, i just wasn't comfortable with only 2 threads of engagement with that jam nut. I will try to take some pics when i finally get around to putting everything together, for posterity.

greg
 
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