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Front shocks not holding air pressure

  • Thread starter Thread starter SeanMora77
  • Start date Start date
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SeanMora77

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I'm in the process of restoring an 81' gs850 GL, I followed the clymer guide to pressurize the front shocks and checked them a few days later and there is no pressure held. Could this be lack of oil or is it more likely a bad seal?
 
Could be a seal, could be the Schraeder valve itself. I't check the valve first. Pressurize the forks, put a little spit or soap on the valve and see if it bubbles. If it does it is leaking.
 
I wouldn't expect the fork seals to hold air for any longer than a hydraulic seal takes to "self bleed". They're oil seals, not air seals. I agree with Kid that any leak is most likely at the valve on top. My 850's forks wouldn't hold air for more than a few days, maybe a week. I put Progressive brand springs in it and adjusted the preload with the spacer. I never think about air in the forks anymore. On the 1000, I immediately installed Progressives, and never even tried to put air in them.

If you do decide to replace the springs, experiment with different air pressures first, so see how much preload gives you the handling you want. It can have a surprising impact on how it goes into corners.
 
So would a logical fix for the short term be new valve stems? I'm a noob to the resources and just discovered how incredibly much I have on my plate just to get her running right, all funds tied up in boots and rings and such.
 
My 650g had the same symptoms and I changed two o-rings (cheap), one at the valve and one on the cap and it's holds air now. Getting the exact pressure is a challenge without the proper pump. I run 12 psi. Check your manual, don't go to much. Pm if you need more info. It cost me $5.00. plus or minus.

cg
 
Well, George's (koolaid kid) test is near free. If you don't want to try that first, then the valve is the most likely thing to replace. There is also an o-ring on the cap at the top end of the fork. They should be cheap enough to replace too, just in case. Just be sure to support the bike under the motor it you take the caps off, because the springs push on them to hold the front of the bike up.
 
Before you randomly start replacing things I would try and locate the leak. I'm not familiar with the 850 forks but the 1100 has one valve with two fork sleeves and a connector line and fittings and has to be similar. Finding the leak is similar too. Grab a cup and mix up some dish soap and water. Pressurize the fork and then brush on the soapy water to all the likely spots for a leak: valve, lines, and even the dust caps on the sliders. Keep it wet and watch. Small bubbles should form from where its leaking and pinpoint the problem area for you. Good luck.
 
I'm of the "get stiffer springs and forget about air" mind set. Even if you can't afford Progressive or Sonic springs, you can do the "poor man's progressive" mod cutting down a couple of inches of the tight spring coils with some PVC spacer cut for some pre-load. You won't miss the air.
 
Raise the dust boots up and put around 15 PSI in them and drip some foaming liquid like water and dish soap, windex, whatever... around the valve, the fork cap, and the tops of the fork seals and then look for TINY almost white foamish bubbles. I like windex myself cuz it wipes off with a paper towel and no residue left behind. I had one that was leaking thru the threads the valve cap screws on too...look there as well. May be a slight crack from a PO getting agressive to open the tops of the forks up!!! Wrench slips and smacks the valve assembly and crackola.
 
on the right side,obviously the schraeder valve, but this is what i get on the left side.

picture.php
 
Ahh yup..the cap oring is shot for sure, but check everything else i just listed too before you gotta make 2 orders three days apart.
 
Thanks everybody, getting real familiar with that "sinking feeling", I guess thats par for the course when restoring such an old bike. :o
 
One more two part question... Can I simply buy an assorted o-ring set to fix this, and do I have to completely remove the forks to repair?
 
I replaced the two o-rings I mentioned with the forks on. I believe I elevated the front wheel, removed the valves and caps and replaced the o-rings. Not too much air, remember. Get the Suzuki o-rings! They need to be made of material which will resist the fork oil.

cg
 
raise the front of the bike just till the tire is about to leave the ground to take the preload off the springs..unscrew the tops and replace the orings..nothing special..auto parts will probably have one. Take the cap with you to fit another and take the valve otu as well and get the one on there too.
 
Your run of the mill automotive orings is all you need. The "special" nitrill grade ones are more for resisitng gasoline breaking down the neoprene in them.
 
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